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> BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3, It seemed a good idea at the time...
tygaboy
post Feb 15 2022, 03:47 PM
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A bit all over the place today but... I decided to connect up the CAN components so I could work on programming the PMU. I ended up on a call with ECU Master's tech support and they are GREAT! 10 minutes later, my minor issue was sorted and I'm all connected and ready to program. Programable circuits, no fuses or relays... such cool stuff! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)


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tygaboy
post Feb 17 2022, 07:14 PM
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What. You thought I was done posting crap you don't care about...? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
Today, it's solid state relays! What could be better?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nPiIfriof8
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Dion
post Feb 17 2022, 07:30 PM
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Super cool stuff as always.
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Shivers
post Feb 17 2022, 07:51 PM
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I know electric motors create an electromagnetic field or EMF close to what a microwave puts out. Any concern about getting stuck between two tesla's on the freeway? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) When you're not driving it you can use it as an atom collider. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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tygaboy
post Feb 20 2022, 07:01 PM
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Wire you complaining about my posts? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
Major milestone accomplished! The PMU is programmed and performing as hoped/expected! No more Arduino for me, thank you. Enjoy.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4JwCQ2De-0
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Andyrew
post Feb 20 2022, 11:17 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

Loving the progress!!
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tygaboy
post Feb 24 2022, 06:26 PM
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The solid state relays are mounted and wired. One powers the coils and injectors, the other is the H2O pump. The main power for the ECU direct connect to the battery also done.
I'm at the part of the process where "neatness counts" and I'm happy with how it's going, so far. I still have to sheath and secure things but the basic physical layout is looking pretty tidy, IMO.


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tazz9924
post Feb 24 2022, 06:50 PM
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QUOTE(tygaboy @ Feb 24 2022, 04:26 PM) *

The solid state relays are mounted and wired. One powers the coils and injectors, the other is the H2O pump. The main power for the ECU direct connect to the battery also done.
I'm at the part of the process where "neatness counts" and I'm happy with how it's going, so far. I still have to sheath and secure things but the basic physical layout is looking pretty tidy, IMO.

Interesting tid bit on solid state relays: At work we mount relays on our promod cars on the rear wheel tubs, basically just behind the passenger seat on a normal car. The relays control the front and rear shocks air adjustment and if we use standard switching relays the vibrations and especially tire shake will cause the relay to switch on and off regardless if its on or off. This is definitely an issue when you are going 200 plus in 1/8th of a mile. Solid state relays are the only way to avoid it, and they work great.
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targa72e
post Feb 25 2022, 11:35 PM
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QUOTE(tazz9924 @ Feb 24 2022, 07:50 PM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Feb 24 2022, 04:26 PM) *

The solid state relays are mounted and wired. One powers the coils and injectors, the other is the H2O pump. The main power for the ECU direct connect to the battery also done.
I'm at the part of the process where "neatness counts" and I'm happy with how it's going, so far. I still have to sheath and secure things but the basic physical layout is looking pretty tidy, IMO.

Interesting tid bit on solid state relays: At work we mount relays on our promod cars on the rear wheel tubs, basically just behind the passenger seat on a normal car. The relays control the front and rear shocks air adjustment and if we use standard switching relays the vibrations and especially tire shake will cause the relay to switch on and off regardless if its on or off. This is definitely an issue when you are going 200 plus in 1/8th of a mile. Solid state relays are the only way to avoid it, and they work great.



Makes sense as standard relays are mechanical with thin strips of metal being pulled together with electro magnets and ,well solid state relays non mechanical, solid state, electrical components with no moving parts.

john
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tygaboy
post Mar 1 2022, 04:53 PM
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Getting started on the engine harness. Moving from ITBs to the DBW throttle body means I needed to relocate the MAT sensor. In stock form, the LS3 runs a MAF sensor. The Holley ECU is speed density based so no MAF. Anyway, once I figured out where I wanted it, I drew up a quick bracket and cut it on the plasma table.


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tygaboy
post Mar 1 2022, 04:55 PM
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A couple bends later and it's in. I wanted it to be as stealth as possible so it mounts under the engine lid latch, like this.
When I pull everything out to paint the car, I'll likely redo the latch and just build this section into the design. But for now, I'm good with this add-on approach.


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tygaboy
post Mar 1 2022, 04:59 PM
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With the MAT and MAP sensor wires routed, I was able to start sheathing this section of the harness. As with the other harnesses, this is Raychem DR 25. You can see I only fully recovered a few inches around where these two sensors branch from the DBW cable, just to lock down that area. It should all look pretty tidy once it's complete.


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tygaboy
post Mar 1 2022, 07:18 PM
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See, even though this build gets into a ton of stuff that you don't care about, occasionally, I pull out something that makes it worth following what I'm up to! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
From a 2004 360 Modena. 400 hp @ 8500. Yes, there's matching 6-speed transaxle, ECUs, wiring harnesses, etc., etc. Essentially everything needed to make it run. It's got only 5K miles on it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

I've been debating posting about it because it sorta fell into my lap and I may or may not do anything with it. For example, while initial measurements indicate the engine/trans package will fit a 914, length-wise, it's clear that factory intake set up won't fit - at least not without a ton of rework to my engine compartment. And I'm not willing to do that.

So, current options being noodled on include:
1. Fab a set of manifolds and run a "standard" 8-stack ITB set up and stuff it into my chassis
2. Find another chassis and build a different 914 around it. Though it'd likely still need intake mods.
3. Stuff it into RacerBenz! It fits with no mods. But best of all? I could name the car... wait for it... Benzo Ferrari! And come on, that would be so f-ing epic it's nearly impossible to resisit.
4. Do nothing. Which is probably the best option! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

A friend of mine has a 360 street car and a 360 Challenge car. Plus, he's a MoTec dealer. I've been chatting with him about what's what so give me a bit to work out a few things and we'll see what happens. This isn't (yet) a front burner project but I'll update things as I make progress.


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djway
post Mar 1 2022, 10:15 PM
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The sounds that would make at 8500................ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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roundtwo
post Mar 1 2022, 11:50 PM
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Catching up on your last couple videos. Really slick stuff. "Water pump" and "914" not often used in the same sentence! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
Have a donor 914 for that Ferrari engine if needed.

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Cairo94507
post Mar 2 2022, 07:40 AM
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@Tygaboy - Wow! Nice score for sure. My vote is to build another 914 around that motor. I know someone still interested in buying your car once you get it mechanically finished. He wants to do the paint and body himself. He asks about it all the time.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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tazz9924
post Mar 3 2022, 07:08 PM
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Benzo Ferrari.
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yellowporky
post Mar 3 2022, 08:24 PM
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i vote for Benzo Ferrari
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bkrantz
post Mar 3 2022, 08:29 PM
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Coffee table?
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tygaboy
post Mar 4 2022, 07:31 PM
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With the routing worked out and each branch of the engine harness trimmed to length, it's time for sheathing. Any section before a branch point has to have it's own, separate length of sheathing plus another short length to recover over and secure the end of that section as well as a short section of the branches.
That lower, right section shows what it looks like when complete. The initial branch, just off the bulkhead connector shows what it looks like "assembled but not yet recovered".
Hard to see, but the short section is there, ready once everything else is done.

And it's OK. You can admit it: you're jealous and wishing you were rewiring your car, aren't you? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


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