Voltage Regulator, Need help finding right regulator Options

[Superhawk996]

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[Superhawk996]

All these years later . . . And @914Sixer is still the best bet for getting a NOS regulator instead of some cobbled part. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Watch the classifieds and don’t hesitate if/when he has them.

[914Sixer]

I know where there are a couple. I have one used one for $49 shipped.

[stoneman30hotmail]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

17V at D+! What's that mean?

[Spoke]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

17V at D+! What's that mean?

@stoneman30hotmail

Is this a new VR? D+ should be the same as the battery voltage. The VR uses DF to control the current in the armature of the alternator which in turn controls the voltage to the battery.

See the diagram below that the voltage generated at D+ by the stator should be identical to the voltage generated at B+ and thus the battery.

Check all 3 voltages at the VR connector WRT chassis, not the engine case.

D+ should equal battery voltage
DF should hover between 5V and 9V
D- should be zero volts.

If you have 17V at D+ and 14V at B+, then something is still amiss.

[porschetub]

Interesting to see Pelican still selling the ill fitting china made Hella (5DR 004 243 -111 ) ,think I payed $32 I think a way back ,now they are $52 !!!!.
Genuine Porsche one is a Beru and listed for $42, these weren't listed @ the time I bought mine sadly.
Not only are they a poor fit but my one never really worked that well,80% of the time I had to rev the engine to shut of the charge light,I didn't expect this considering I had a completely rebuilt alternator ,new loom ,reconditioned relayboard and all else in good condition .
Got sick of this and being a non returnable part all I could do was to comment in the review section ,IMO it is disappointing to see them selling them still and listed as direct replacement for original .
Bought one of 914sixer's NOS units and no further issues .

[technicalninja]

I bought the last new solid state one from Mark.
I don't think I need it YET.
Just seemed like I was going to later regret not getting one when they were available.

I'm glad I did.

[windforfun]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

What would happen if you just bypassed the damn thing? What does it really regulate?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[technicalninja]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

What would happen if you just bypassed the damn thing? What does it really regulate?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Trying to "stir the pot" Sir?

Guys, don't fall for it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

He's an Electrical Engineer...

[windforfun]

You're a righteous dude (from the movie "Ferris Bueller's Day Off"). So maybe this thing keeps the battery charging circuit at about 13.5 V IIRC, regardless of the varying loads placed on the electrical system by such things as the 1 KW rms audio system & the beer refrigerator. I have both in my 914. Just joking.

P.S. A bad regulator could conceivably produce 16 V at the battery which is a no no.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[stoneman30hotmail]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

17V at D+! What's that mean?

@stoneman30hotmail

Is this a new VR? D+ should be the same as the battery voltage. The VR uses DF to control the current in the armature of the alternator which in turn controls the voltage to the battery.

See the diagram below that the voltage generated at D+ by the stator should be identical to the voltage generated at B+ and thus the battery.

Check all 3 voltages at the VR connector WRT chassis, not the engine case.

D+ should equal battery voltage
DF should hover between 5V and 9V
D- should be zero volts.

If you have 17V at D+ and 14V at B+, then something is still amiss.

Now I'm thinking that maybe one or two of the diodes is bad. That would cause an imbalance between the D+ and B+. The light is probably trying to say that the last diodes will go at any time. Maybe wasn't the regulator after all?

[windforfun]

Now there's 14V at the battery. So maybe that's ok. The generator light is still on though.

@stoneman30hotmail

Good that you have 14V at the battery. What is the voltage at D+ to chassis? The voltage across the GEN light is the difference between D+ and battery (through fuse F9). If D+ is also 14V, then with engine off, pop out the guage with GEN light, start the car and measure both sides of the GEN light. They should be the same.

17V at D+! What's that mean?

@stoneman30hotmail

Is this a new VR? D+ should be the same as the battery voltage. The VR uses DF to control the current in the armature of the alternator which in turn controls the voltage to the battery.

See the diagram below that the voltage generated at D+ by the stator should be identical to the voltage generated at B+ and thus the battery.

Check all 3 voltages at the VR connector WRT chassis, not the engine case.

D+ should equal battery voltage
DF should hover between 5V and 9V
D- should be zero volts.

If you have 17V at D+ and 14V at B+, then something is still amiss.

Now I'm thinking that maybe one or two of the diodes is bad. That would cause an imbalance between the D+ and B+. The light is probably trying to say that the last diodes will go at any time. Maybe wasn't the regulator after all?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[stoneman30hotmail]

I have to finish this off for posterity. The problem was apparently just a weak battery. While the battery is low, it is drawing more current than the alternator can keep up with. So the voltage there is much lower than at D+. After a week of charging and driving the battery is fully charged and the lamp is off. I switched back to the original regulator and it's all good - for now.

[emerygt350]

Very interesting. Thanks for posting the follow up.

[CCE]

Got mine from an autozone retail in Mexico, it’s the full height one. $3.00usd I think is shared part with VW’s