What is the trick to installing a new fuel line? Options

[Larmo63]

I've got one fuel line to install (carbs) and the engine is out. I had no luck getting the new line in further than 8 -12"

I can't imagine doing this with the engine in without bending the f*ck out of the new line....

[r_towle]

Take off the access plate between the seats, mirror and flashlight....

[Larmo63]

I have it off, it just seems to stop.

I really got frustrated and gave up. It seems impossible.

[napasteve]

Best done with a helper. We did 2 lines with the engine in place in 15 minutes. One person below to fed the lines, one above to guide the lines down the tunnel.

[Keith914]

I have it off, it just seems to stop.

I really got frustrated and gave up. It seems impossible.

Keep them running through next to the passenger side of the tunnel.

[ejm]

I can't imagine ding this with the engine in without bending the f*ck out of the new line....

The lines are pre-bent...remove the RR wheel if you have to... rotate and work past the obstructions... it's easy... really

[Larmo63]

Do I pull the front rubber grommet out at the tank end and reinstall it?

[aggiezig]

Lawrence - I haven't done the job before but would imagine that plug must come out / be re-installed. I can't see pushing the lines through blindly with it still there.

[porschetub]

That's why I used the correct fuel grade plastic line and ferrules from a late VW Golf,I did however use steel brake line pipe at the front around the tank into the tunnel real easy to get through the bulkhead rubber grommet.
No help to you Lawrence as you already have the hard lines,good luck anyway mate.

[PNW_Boxer993]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hxFRQTWLetw

[db9146]

Lawrence,
Leave the front grommet in place to guide the line. I did take the grommet at the firewall out so that I had more room to move it around starting out and that helped. Then some silicone spray when sliding the firewall grommet over the installed line. Took me a little while to do both by myself but it is possible (I didn't think so when I first started).

[mepstein]

I don't take out any grommets. I lube the ss line and the gromet and use a helper to sight along the tunnel. Takes 5 minutes. It should slide easily with lube. No bending required.
* I've always had the engine out when I've done it.

[6freak]

I have it off, it just seems to stop.

I really got frustrated and gave up. It seems impossible.

its is! fuck it through it all away (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[BeatNavy]

Agree with all who said you need a helper. It shouldn't be that hard with a second person. My son made himself useful and helped me get it done, and it's one of the few things I've done that isn't in my "Well that was a PITA!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) " category.

And I did it with engine in car.

[clapeza]

I feel your pain, brother!!

Racer Chris's stainless lines are terrific, but can be a challenge if the engine is still in the car. Mine were doing the same thing as yours - get a foot or so in then stop dead. Here's what helped for me:

Remove the right rear wheel.
Unbolt the shifter's three bolts so you can pull it up and to the left a little.
Reach inside the tunnel and flatten out the metal tabs that secure the lines.
Lube up the rear grommet (if still there) with glycerin.
Start sliding the supply line, the one on the right, first. As it goes in, rotate it clockwise to keep the front end bend pointing downward as it advances. You may have to wiggle it a bit. You shouldn't have to force it at any point. If it hangs, back up and move forward, twisting a little as you go.
It helps to have an assistant spot the line from above, and apply a little bit of downward pressure when you can see it through the rear most access hole.
With luck, you'll hit the sweet spot and it'll move forward smoothly.
Lube up the front grommet as well.
You can pull the line forward from inside the cockpit to feed it through the grommet.
If you don't have, or trashed, the rear grommet, 914Rubber makes a nice slide in replacement.
Thankfully, the return line, the one on the left, is much easier to feed.

Good luck! Hope this helps!!

[76-914]

Lawrence,
Leave the front grommet in place to guide the line. I did take the grommet at the firewall out so that I had more room to move it around starting out and that helped. Then some silicone spray when sliding the firewall grommet over the installed line. Took me a little while to do both by myself but it is possible (I didn't think so when I first started).

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) This and WD40. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Steve]

Do I pull the front rubber grommet out at the tank end and reinstall it?

I removed mine and drilled it out a bit for the bigger SS lines.
It is a bit of a bitch getting the lines through. I taped the ends, so crap wouldn't get in them, while i'm playing twist and shout getting them through the tunnel.

[toolguy]

The first one did I tied a string to the plastic lines and pulled it through the tunnel when I removed the OE lines. . You might try getting a wire through the car end to end first and then slide the new tubing over it, using it as a guide.

Pull the tunnel cover at the rear and the shifter in the middle for visual. . As it remember there are tabs that hold the plastic lines in place and the mid bulkhead that you have to navigate around and through. . .

[Larmo63]

I'll give it another try today with the right rear wheel off and I only have the one big line to install.

I watched the video, my experience wasn't anything close to how those went in.

[forrestkhaag]

I used a fish tape run from the front to the back dragged thru with the original plastic line.

With low pressure carbs, you only need one line so if your plastic is still there, you have two shots at it. Otherwise lube up and stuff it / you have that one down! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)