'73 2.0, a yellow storage unit find Options

[napasteve]

Arne, maybe I missed something; where did you get the new sender unit for the oil temp gauge? Is the new sender unit the same size as the VDO oil temperature sender (M14 x 1.5mm thread)?

[arne]

Arne, maybe I missed something; where did you get the new sender unit for the oil temp gauge? Is the new sender unit the same size as the VDO oil temperature sender (M14 x 1.5mm thread)?

VDO #323-055 has the M14x1.5 thread, and is short with a 90 degree terminal for the new taco plate. Works great for the billet plate, but not correct for stock, I don't believe.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-643-1415751104.jpg)

[napasteve]

Thanks Arne. Any issues getting the new plate from Jonesy? Any leaks so far?

[arne]

Thanks Arne. Any issues getting the new plate from Jonesy? Any leaks so far?

No to both questions. I paypal'd Jonesy, didn't pay for expedited post, was still here within 2 weeks, as I recall. No issues.

No leak at the taco plate now, although it's only been in for a day. But I don't expect leaks in the future, either. It's a very nice piece. Comes with the longer bolts needed (nice Allen head), and new copper washers for the bolts. You'll want a fairly fresh o-ring, but that's it. The new VDO sender comes with a copper washer as well. Torque it all down and leaks should be a thing of the past.

The only other thing I did was to put some heat shrink on the wire's terminal to ensure it does not ground out against the taco plate if bumped.

[arne]

I've started making a punch list of items that I need (or in some cases, want) to address before I feel it'll be ready to sell. I will add to and edit this list as time goes on.

• Refit all heater parts, one new hose
• New bearing in steering column
• Address pressure leak in windshield washer
• Regulate clock (runs fast)
• Install new interior light
• Steering wheel grip slips - repair
• Cover steering wheel grip, leather
• Replace horn pad mushroom
• Replace rear seal on targa top
• Repair rear defroster connector tab
• Repair rear defroster grid
• AGM battery and hold down
• Replace door switches
• Re-check valve adjustment & timing
• Recover console
• Replace strut inserts to cure clunk, rear shocks to match
• Replace heater fan blower motor
• Reattach rearview mirror
• Repaint and install rocker panel covers
• Wax car
• Miscellaneous detailing

And notable things that I am (probably) going to leave for the next owner:

• New bumpers
• New tires

[arne]

As I continue to wrap up various parts, I've been driving the car a bit more the past few days to help identify areas of concern. Mostly seems ok so far. The only real thing I've found so far is that there may be a slight clunk in the front suspension on rough road surfaces. Sounds to me like either one of the struts, or more likely a bad sway bar link bushing. Will explore that soon.

Other than that, it seems pretty good. It drives nicely, the engine runs fine, transmission shifts well. The transmission does make some raspy sounds at times, but overall it is probably quieter than the 915 in my Carrera.

[ConeDodger]

Check your shock nuts in the trunk. Hard to get a socket on them and I've seen them loosen up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[arne]

Check your shock nuts in the trunk. Hard to get a socket on them and I've seen them loosen up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Would that it were that simple, Rob. Clunk appears to be in the RF strut itself. Digging in deeper now.

[ConeDodger]

Check your shock nuts in the trunk. Hard to get a socket on them and I've seen them loosen up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

Would that it were that simple, Rob. Clunk appears to be in the RF strut itself. Digging in deeper now.

Yikes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[arne]

Unfortunately, it is the RF strut insert. I was hoping not to have to replace the struts and shocks, I really like the ride/handling combo of those old red Konis. But while all 4 had consistent resistance through the entire stroke before, now that I have begun driving the car, the bad one feels good through the lower 40% of the travel, but suddenly no resistance toward the top. If I lowered the front ride height a little, it might clunk less often than now, but that ain't right.

Reviewing the choices now. I see only 5 options:

1. New KYB are out, they are affordable but (IMG:style_emoticons/default/post-2-1117899824.gif)
2. I don't feel Koni yellow are the best choice for stock bars and the 100# springs on the back.
3. Bilstein HD/B6 are good, but not cheap.
4. Would consider OEM Sachs if I could find them, but they'd probably cost almost as much as the Bilsteins.
5. Not feeling too good about finding decent used Koni reds (82R-1730), but it might be a possibility. First I'd need to hunt them down, then hope they were better than what I have.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[mepstein]

Arne - I’ll sell you a pair of brand new, oem Sachs front inserts for $150 shipped. Mark

[mepstein]

Arne - I’ll sell you a pair of brand new, oem Sachs for $150 shipped. Mark

And for another $50, I’ll include good used Sachs rears shipped.

[arne]

Arne - I’ll sell you a pair of brand new, oem Sachs for $150 shipped. Mark

And for another $50, I’ll include good used Sachs rears shipped.

Seems like a good option for an essentially stock car, Mark. PM coming your way.

[ConeDodger]

Koni still rebuilding them?

[arne]

Koni still rebuilding them?

Some disagreement on that. Some say they still can, others note that they no longer do the old red single-adjust units.

In any case, the cost to rebuild (if they still do them) would exceed the cost of the units Mark has offered. Can probably buy new Bilsteins for what it would cost to rebuild them. For a stock car, the Sachs are probably the better option.

[euro911]

Yes, they do ... http://www.koniracing.com/services.cfm

[arne]

Got in touch with Mark, he has the new front Sachs inserts, and a pair of good used shocks to match, but no rear spring perches for them. So looking for either a pair of perches, or other rear options. Really don't want to mismatch the dampers front and rear.

[ConeDodger]

Koni still rebuilding them?

Some disagreement on that. Some say they still can, others note that they no longer do the old red single-adjust units.

In any case, the cost to rebuild (if they still do them) would exceed the cost of the units Mark has offered. Can probably buy new Bilsteins for what it would cost to rebuild them. For a stock car, the Sachs are probably the better option.

I agree. I seem to recall that Koni's rebuild facility is located pretty close to my shop in Sonoma...

[arne]

I had a pair of Bilstein inserts rebuilt 12 or so years back. Cost more than most new ones. But it was worth it in that case, they were custom-valved Alpina inserts based on normal Bilsteins that were also NLA.

That is the only case I'd think about rebuilding for a street car - if there were no correct new options available at all.

[arne]

I’ve been checking a few things off of the punch list above (post #265), but keep adding more as I go. But most are not major items, the end is - maybe not in sight yet, but not far around the corner. Waiting on a few parts now.