'73 2.0, a yellow storage unit find Options

[arne]

I fixed one of these odometer problems at least once before, many years ago. I think it was on one of my 1st gen Sciroccos. The only challenge will be opening up the gauge without damaging the bezel.

[914_7T3]

Arne, glad things are progressing. Its never fun to spend more than you think you will have to. So far, I am learning that some things on the car turn out better than you thought and others require more attention than first anticipated.

Keep pushing forward and we'll get there for sure.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[arne]

Progress continues. After further review, I decided that the pads were not worn unevenly after all, and that the soft brake pedal was the master cylinder. I was planning to perhaps let that sit for a while, but then other considerations made me change my mind, and today I installed a new 19mm Ate unit. Finally the brake pedal feels firm and correct. The brakes now work much better, although stopping power is a bit lacking due to the rusty and pitted surfaces of the rotors. That may correct itself with use, so I need to begin driving the car some.

On the other hand, the pads and rotors may be too far gone, and I may end up replacing them later. We shall see.

Got several things lined up now that the brakes are functional. Suspension is one, but first I think I'm going to look at the oil leaks, see if I can dry things out some. That and coming up with a good solution for the AAR, while also replacing all the hoses under the hood.

[arne]

Drove it to the local PCA monthly coffee gathering today. (For any of you near Eugene, 1st Saturday of each month, 10:00 at Market of Choice at 29th & Willamette. Park way at the north end in back.)



Admitting that it still has some needs, especially in the suspension, I can see that these cars are a riot to drive, even with just a stock 2.0. This is getting fun.

[arne]

Updates:

Brakes - Still not 100% happy with the brakes. As appears to be common, I think there is still some air in there somewhere. Going to need to take another stab at bleeding, perhaps at the pressure regulator.

Suspension - Have determined that the front was lowered down to where it truly was riding on the bumpstops. After raising it back up to factory height the ride is much improved. Will order new springs for the rear shortly.

Oil leaks - Have determined the left side of the motor is dry, all motor leaks are on the right side. Looks like the bulk is from the valve cover, but the oil cooler just above it also looks a bit wet. Cleaning and driving it to see if I can track down the source(s).

New items - shift bushings are pretty sad, will address that soon. Also got the oil temp gauge reconnected, but it seems to work spastically. Once after a rather short test drive, I noticed that it had settled and appeared to be working normally, but was indicating rather hot. Will need to decide if the gauge is accurate, and if so if the engine is running hot. Going to need to check the flappers for function.

[ConeDodger]

For all that is said about George and AA, (much of it true) his little pamphlet 700 Tech Tips is spot on. Four common oil leaks on the passenger side include the oil pressure sender, the oil cooler and the valve cover (both sides), as well as the return tube seals (both sides).

[arne]

The cooler doesn't appear to be really wet, but I'll need to locate the pressure sender and check that. Will replace valve cover gaskets as a matter of course. Will probably check the valve adjustment too, no telling when it was last done.

[arne]

Re-bled the rear brakes today, I think I got it this time. At least now it doesn't trip the warning light when I stomp on them. Will need to log some miles to see if the pads and rotors will bed properly after they wear off all the rust. If not, might have to deal with pads and rotors to get full brake power.

[pete000]

Great to see another 914 rescued and back in service !

[arne]

Brakes - Still not 100% happy with the brakes. As appears to be common, I think there is still some air in there somewhere. Going to need to take another stab at bleeding, perhaps at the pressure regulator.

Re-bled the rear brakes today, I think I got it this time. At least now it doesn't trip the warning light when I stomp on them. Will need to log some miles to see if the pads and rotors will bed properly after they wear off all the rust. If not, might have to deal with pads and rotors to get full brake power.

Brakes are improving with miles. Starting to feel like they have some power now, and the surface of the disc no longer looks orange-brown. I think this will be ok with more driving.

Suspension - Have determined that the front was lowered down to where it truly was riding on the bumpstops. After raising it back up to factory height the ride is much improved. Will order new springs for the rear shortly.

Rear springs arrived today and were installed. Big improvement. I'm going to declare the suspension ok for now.

[ConeDodger]

What are you using for tires? That can make The suspension feel rock like as well...

[arne]

Tires are 195/65HR15 Toyos, Rob. A bit on the old side, but definitely not what I was feeling. This car had serious suspension issues, now corrected. My guess is that the Konis went on years back, while the car was still fairly fresh. Then as the rear springs sagged out, the answer was to keep lowering the front so that the car sat level. By the time I bought it, both ends were riding on the stops, no travel at all. Now that I have raised it up some and we have suspension travel once again, all is quite well.

[arne]

Am I correct in thinking the oil pressure sender is on the top side of the motor? If so, it is not leaking, the top side is completely dry. That leaves the right side valve cover as a known leak, and the right push rod tubes and the oil cooler as still suspect.

Stupid Type IV noob question - can I pull a valve cover (or adjust the valves) without draining the oil? Or am I going to make an Exxon Valdez sized mess if I do so? I ask because I can pull one side at a time on my 911 if I jack up the side of the car I am working on. Don't know if that is possible on a Type IV with its wet sump.

[914_teener]

Am I correct in thinking the oil pressure sender is on the top side of the motor? If so, it is not leaking, the top side is completely dry. That leaves the right side valve cover as a known leak, and the right push rod tubes and the oil cooler as still suspect.

Stupid Type IV noob question - can I pull a valve cover (or adjust the valves) without draining the oil? Or am I going to make an Exxon Valdez sized mess if I do so? I ask because I can pull one side at a time on my 911 if I jack up the side of the car I am working on. Don't know if that is possible on a Type IV with its wet sump.

Yes.

I.d replace the push rod seals and the cover gaskets if the car has been sitting for a while.

See also if the breather hose is hooked up.

[arne]

Yes, the breather is connected. I've already got a new pair of cover gaskets, will pick up a set of tube seals before I tear into it.

[rhodyguy]

Check the top side of the oil filter. If there is a puddle on top chances are the leak is cooler related.

[arne]

Check the top side of the oil filter. If there is a puddle on top chances are the leak is cooler related.

Thanks, that's a good tip. Will look into that when I spend some time in the garage tomorrow.

Can the cooler o-rings be replaced with the engine in the car? Or is an engine drop required?

[mepstein]

Check the top side of the oil filter. If there is a puddle on top chances are the leak is cooler related.

Thanks, that's a good tip. Will look into that when I spend some time in the garage tomorrow.

Can the cooler o-rings be replaced with the engine in the car? Or is an engine drop required?

Guys do it in the car. There's a thread somewhere. I'm sure it's not easy - at least for me. I did it why the engine was out along with some while you are there stuff.

[arne]

Guys do it in the car. There's a thread somewhere. I'm sure it's not easy - at least for me. I did it why the engine was out along with some while you are there stuff.

Yeah, I found a Pelican tech article on it. Will probably give it a try. Just do all the leak points at once.

[euro911]

If you're planning to replace the push rod tube seals, that's going to facilitate engine removal (cooling tins and heads need to come off), so that would be the best time to replace the oil cooler seals.

Might also want to check to see if the rear main seal is leaking, and this will also give you the opportunity to check and replace the clutch disc (if needed).