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> '73 2.0, a yellow storage unit find
rhodyguy
post May 13 2017, 09:02 PM
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"While I'm in there I might as well..." slippery slope. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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euro911
post May 13 2017, 09:45 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ May 13 2017, 08:02 PM) *
"While I'm in there I might as well..." slippery slope. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Yeah, but why pull the motor out twice? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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arne
post May 13 2017, 11:16 PM
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Really? I've read (both online and in service manuals) that Type IV push rod tubes can be removed without pulling the heads. Am I missing something here?
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mark04usa
post May 13 2017, 11:41 PM
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Push rod tube seals can be replaced without dropping the engine. It is not a difficult job, just uncomfortable if your car is on jackstands. There is a thread here or on Pelican that covers this repair. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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euro911
post May 14 2017, 12:22 PM
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Yeah, my goof ... I've been working on 616 motors too long (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)
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arne
post May 18 2017, 10:41 AM
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Pretty sure I don't need to remind anyone here about how one thing leads to another...

Picked up some parts locally to address some of the oil leaks - push rod tubes, oil cooler seals, etc. I also got a rear shift rod bushing as the existing one seemed pretty sloppy.

Got the car in the air yesterday, figured I'd start with the shift rod bushing, as that was a separate job from the rest. And that's where the plan started to break down.

Pulled the shift linkage bowl/cover down, and found it full of gear oil. Not too surprised, really. But if I'm going to address that, I figured I better just start to really look things over - what else should I be looking at?

It would appear that sitting unused for several years magically transforms seals and o-rings into cheese. In addition to the shift linkage, both output flange seals are leaking, the left side especially. So I've started acquiring all the rest of the seals I can think to deal with, as well as the copper exhaust seals as I figure getting to all this stuff will be easier with the heat exchangers out of the way. Progress will resume some time next week after it all arrives.

Question - the new rear shift rod bushing doesn't appear to be any better than the one I pulled out. It is not snug on the shift rod, seems to allow close to 1/8" movement. Is that correct? Or is my shift rod a smaller diameter for some reason?
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euro911
post May 18 2017, 11:30 AM
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I think you'd be better off dropping the drive train and addressing all the seals at one time. If the shift console seal on your transaxle is shot, the input shaft seal might need to be replaced as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) - if it leaks, you'll be replacing the clutch too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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arne
post May 18 2017, 11:52 AM
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Yeah, I'm sure you are right, Mark. I've been trying to avoid dropping it as I'm not well equipped in this garage for it. But I may need to work that out.

How high do I need to get the car up to have room to drop the lump and get it out from under the car? Assume that I have the heat exchangers pulled, if that gives any more room.
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mepstein
post May 18 2017, 12:16 PM
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I've done it with the rear wheels on wheel ramps, dropping onto a furniture dolly. I think you need about 33-36" of clearance from back of car to the ground. Probably a couple inches less now that you pulled the he's. Dropping the engine and trans is easy and you can get stuff done so much easier once it's on the ground.

The bushing isn't a very good fit. Some guys make their own for a more precise fit.
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euro911
post May 18 2017, 12:41 PM
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I whole-heartedly agree with Mark Epstein ... it's much easier to drop the motor and transaxle as a single unit.

Definitely remove the HEs before dropping the drive train ... you don't want to get stuck trying to do it while it's on the ground (or dolly).

Having an engine stand is really nice for servicing the motor at a good working height ... maybe someone local to you has one you can borrow? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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arne
post May 18 2017, 12:57 PM
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Mr. Epstein's ramps must be taller than mine. Looks like I have ~23" with the rear bumper off. Of course, the body will rise once the weight of the drivetrain is removed, but I'm not sure that will be enough.
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mepstein
post May 18 2017, 01:46 PM
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QUOTE(arne @ May 18 2017, 02:57 PM) *

Mr. Epstein's ramps must be taller than mine. Looks like I have ~23" with the rear bumper off. Of course, the body will rise once the weight of the drivetrain is removed, but I'm not sure that will be enough.

I'm measuring 14" from the sheet metal of the rear to the ground with the car sitting in my garage. So add in the height of the ramps plus a couple more inches once the engine is out. Plus when the front wheels are on the ground, the back angles up even more. It will work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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arne
post May 18 2017, 02:08 PM
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OK, I'll give it a shot. I guess worse case is I have to have several buddies over to lift the car as I slide it out the back. Good thing I brew my own beer, because bribing said buddies could get expensive otherwise. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

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euro911
post May 18 2017, 03:00 PM
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It's always nice to have some help doing this, although it's not impossible to do alone.
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mepstein
post May 18 2017, 03:14 PM
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QUOTE(arne @ May 18 2017, 04:08 PM) *

OK, I'll give it a shot. I guess worse case is I have to have several buddies over to lift the car as I slide it out the back. Good thing I brew my own beer, because bribing said buddies could get expensive otherwise. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

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Those are small ramps. But you can always jack up the car further once the engine is down.
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arne
post May 18 2017, 03:33 PM
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I have access to a pair of ramps that will give me another 3-4". Will do that instead.
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arne
post May 18 2017, 08:23 PM
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Now thinking about the "while I'm in there" things. Like better hell hole assessment, replacing the battery tray....
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rhodyguy
post May 19 2017, 08:47 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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Everything will be fine.
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arne
post May 20 2017, 05:32 PM
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Left long and jack point exposed today.

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914_7T3
post May 20 2017, 05:41 PM
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QUOTE(arne @ May 20 2017, 04:32 PM) *

Left long and jack point exposed today.

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Looks Great!
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