Intro from Montana: '73 2.0L rustoration thread Options

[barefoot]

Did you bench run the engine first ?
I did to:
1st enable carb tuning,
2nd to re-check valve lash,
3rd to re-torque the cylinder heads and the exhaust studs.

i needed a lot of carb tuning
the valve lash stayed pretty much the same
head torques were OK, but exhaust studs needed some love after a few heat cycles.

Good luck, you're getting very close (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[tygaboy]

EXCELLENT! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Great progress, Brent!

But now, The Challenge: Drive it under its own power before you reach 100 pages!

I'll have to check with my bookie on the the over/under...

[bbrock]

Did you bench run the engine first ?
I did to:
1st enable carb tuning,
2nd to re-check valve lash,
3rd to re-torque the cylinder heads and the exhaust studs.

i needed a lot of carb tuning
the valve lash stayed pretty much the same
head torques were OK, but exhaust studs needed some love after a few heat cycles.

Good luck, you're getting very close (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

No bench run. I did a lot of research and thinking on that and decided even a minimal run bench wasn't worth the expense and hassle for a one time use.

I did pre-tune the carbs following the Weber Tech Manual and advice on Aircooled.Net. Valve lash has been set and, of course, will be rechecked after cam break-in, but that is easy to do with the engine in the car. From what I've read, you don't need to retorque heads on the Type 4 engine and most people don't because you have to remove the engine tin to access the upper nuts.

I know dialing in the engine would be easier on a test stand, but it just didn't make sense for me to build something that would take up even more shop space than I have for a one time use.

[bbrock]

EXCELLENT! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Great progress, Brent!

But now, The Challenge: Drive it under its own power before you reach 100 pages!

I'll have to check with my bookie on the the over/under...

You'll have to define "drive." Would moving under its own power for 5 ft. before it gets stuck in the snow waiting outside the garage count? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[bbrock]

Damage Report

I lopped the crank breather port off the top of the air box to see if it fixed the clearance problem.



As I somewhat suspect, almost, but not quite.



The lid still sticks up about 3/4" which means I need to drop the air box down about an inch to add some clearance. That will require a rework of the mounting bracket (not a big deal) but probably some modification to the box to clear the carb linkage. Dropping the box will change the geometry of the intake runners so it is a can of worms. CSP makes these low height manifolds which would avoid the geometry problem and probably let me sink the box lower than an inch for more clearance and a better look, but the are $200 and I worry about loss of low end torque and increased heat soak with shorter manifolds.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.dellorto.co.uk-20845-1615346929.1.jpg)

Major surgery ahead (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

[Superhawk996]

Spit balling here @bbrock

Why not modify the rain tray to remove an inch? Might be easier than reworking the whole airbox? Would that get you there? "Hot form" the rain tray around the obstruction? Remove completely for short term? Not sure how much running in the rain you might do in short term.

I wouldn't worry about short manifolds wrecking low end torque too much. Not like there is much runner length there with standard IDF manifolds. Especially as compared to FI runner lengths. Heat soak - use the phonelic spacers at the head. That mostly moves mainfolds laterally not upwards. That probably means some minor mods to you air intake connection to air box (i.e. boot length?).

I'll keep thinking. Sleep on it, don't do anthing rash.

[bbrock]

Spit balling here @bbrock

Why not modify the rain tray to remove an inch? Might be easier than reworking the whole airbox? Would that get you there? "Hot form" the rain tray around the obstruction? Remove completely for short term? Not sure how much running in the rain you might do in short term.

I wouldn't worry about short manifolds wrecking low end torque too much. Not like there is much runner length there with standard IDF manifolds. Especially as compared to FI runner lengths. Heat soak - use the phonelic spacers at the head. That mostly moves mainfolds laterally not upwards. That probably means some minor mods to you air intake connection to air box (i.e. boot length?).

I'll keep thinking. Sleep on it, don't do anthing rash.

Thanks Phil. Modifying the rain tray would be the easy route but most definitely a no-go for me. Violates my rule of only reversible mods (except shaving warts which is just good manners (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) ).

I already have phenolic spaces involved so no issues there. This will be a step wise process. First lower the airbox and get the clearance, then worry about tweaks needed to align the runners. There's also the issue of the interference with the trunk torsion rod. That won't be hard I need to work out the height clearance first. Short manifolds are an attractive option other than price. Of course, that assumes they only differ in height and not lateral dimension. All doable. It's part of the journey.

[Superhawk996]

Modifying the rain tray would be the easy route but most definitely a no-go for me. Violates my rule of only reversible mods (except shaving warts which is just good manners (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) ).

Rain tray is a reversible mod. You just buy a new one later if you want. . . . Just saying' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[mb911]

Modifying the rain tray would be the easy route but most definitely a no-go for me. Violates my rule of only reversible mods (except shaving warts which is just good manners (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) ).

Rain tray is a reversible mod. You just buy a new one later if you want. . . . Just saying' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[bbrock]

Modifying the rain tray would be the easy route but most definitely a no-go for me. Violates my rule of only reversible mods (except shaving warts which is just good manners (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) ).

Rain tray is a reversible mod. You just buy a new one later if you want. . . . Just saying' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Nope. VETO! The intake has to fit without modifying the car. Moving on... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[930cabman]

Hats off to a 35 years restoration, best of luck with your first drive

[mb911]

Modifying the rain tray would be the easy route but most definitely a no-go for me. Violates my rule of only reversible mods (except shaving warts which is just good manners (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) ).

Rain tray is a reversible mod. You just buy a new one later if you want. . . . Just saying' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Nope. VETO! The intake has to fit without modifying the car. Moving on... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Lol ok.. trying to help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[bbrock]

Nope. VETO! The intake has to fit without modifying the car. Moving on... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Lol ok.. trying to help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I thought posting this might be a little over the top (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tleSnj4OD0g

[Superhawk996]

Strangely, I admire it. But we'll have to talk about how the IDF's ended up there . . . and whether or not that is reversable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[KELTY360]

Hats off to a 35 years restoration, best of luck with your first drive

35 years??? Doesn't seem like a day over 25. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[narino]

I've been sitting on the same VW bus intake hemming and hawing on how to make it work. I am SO glad I saw these posts! This is going to save me so much time, Thank you! Sadly I'll have to translate your elegant solutions to fiberglass.

Do you happen to have the Mcmaster sku # for the oversized tubing you bought to create the hose adapter? Was it this one? https://www.mcmaster.com/2805N11

Keep up the amazing work!

[bbrock]

Strangely, I admire it. But we'll have to talk about how the IDF's ended up there . . . and whether or not that is reversable (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

I'm disappointed. The story on those carbs is somewhere in this very short build thread. I can't believe you have not read every word (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Here's the short version:

Clueless guy gets tired of being stranded by an aging FI and also pouring a quart of oil in the engine every week to make up for the leaks. Clueless guy tears down the engine for a rebuild. Internet is not a thing at the time and all clueless guy knows is what he read in VW/Porsche magazine. All the cool kids were putting dual Webers on their 914s and clueless guy wants to be cool. He sends his cam off for regrind and sticks it in his engine. Then clueless guy puts the engine in storage for 30+ years. Clueless guy finally revives the project but my how times have changed. Clueless guy wants to put the FI back on but doesn't want to split the case so decides to run with the carbs for awhile and maybe revisit the fuel system problem later. To atone for the mistake, clueless guy tries to make a badass air intake to make the carbs feel at home but clueless guy can't use a tape measure. Then annoying guy comes along and wants clueless guy to mutilate a perfectly innocent rain tray for some reason. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

I've been sitting on the same VW bus intake hemming and hawing on how to make it work. I am SO glad I saw these posts! This is going to save me so much time, Thank you! Sadly I'll have to translate your elegant solutions to fiberglass.

Do you happen to have the Mcmaster sku # for the oversized tubing you bought to create the hose adapter? Was it this one? https://www.mcmaster.com/2805N11

Keep up the amazing work!

@narino
Thanks. Just make sure you can measure better than me! Here is the link to the tubing I bought. How much do you need? PM me and I'll pop short pieces in the mail for you. Please post your work doing this with fiberglass. I strongly considered going that route.

https://www.mcmaster.com/5066K38/

[bbrock]

Hats off to a 35 years restoration, best of luck with your first drive

35 years??? Doesn't seem like a day over 25. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

I know, right?

[Superhawk996]

Then annoying guy comes along and wants clueless guy to mutilate a perfectly innocent rain tray for some reason. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

You're too kind. I was expecting way worse! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hanged.gif)

[barefoot]

Did you bench run the engine first ?
I did to:
1st enable carb tuning,
2nd to re-check valve lash,
3rd to re-torque the cylinder heads and the exhaust studs.

i needed a lot of carb tuning
the valve lash stayed pretty much the same
head torques were OK, but exhaust studs needed some love after a few heat cycles.

Good luck, you're getting very close (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

No bench run. I did a lot of research and thinking on that and decided even a minimal run bench wasn't worth the expense and hassle for a one time use.

I did pre-tune the carbs following the Weber Tech Manual and advice on Aircooled.Net. Valve lash has been set and, of course, will be rechecked after cam break-in, but that is easy to do with the engine in the car. From what I've read, you don't need to retorque heads on the Type 4 engine and most people don't because you have to remove the engine tin to access the upper nuts.

I know dialing in the engine would be easier on a test stand, but it just didn't make sense for me to build something that would take up even more shop space than I have for a one time use.

Test Stand ?? how about a couple cinder blocks some 2x6, and a 4x4.