Cairo's (Michael) 6 - Part 2, 3.2 coming out and '95 3.6 going in... Options

[Cairo94507]

Q-tip is generally OK with me. I just prefer not to be a Q-ball. But I am sure that too will come. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) As for color, Audi has a color, Nardo Grey, that my wife and I absolutely love....just saying. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Tdskip]

They are not. Scotty made that panel and pressed the louvers in and then cut out the original trunk floor and welded that panel in. It is a nice panel and we kept it. The oil cooler (Patrick Motor Sports unit) will mount vertically against the front nose and then be covered by an aluminum shroud to direct air coming through the front of the cooler out through those lovers under the car after passing through the cooler. Should keep the engine plenty cool.

Thanks

[Luke M]

Looking good there guys.. Another question for you Kent.
What do you plan on doing for the right rear corner above the tail light?
Where the large piece of seam sealer went.
Filling it back up or ?

Keep up the great work.

[914350]

Looking good there guys.. Another question for you Kent.
What do you plan on doing for the right rear corner above the tail light?
Where the large piece of seam sealer went.
Filling it back up or ?

Keep up the great work.

I won't put the foam and seam sealer back in like factory, that does a better job of keeping moisture in then it does keeping it out. I spray sealer back in that area then brush in seam sealer then urethane undercoating and paint. At least the foam isn't there to hold moisture against the metal.

[914350]

Is this what the door gap should look like with the shell unloaded with weight? If so, I'll set mine the same way when welding my stiffening kits in.

That gap actually appears tighter in that pic then it does in person. I don't know if it's because the door was slightly open or just the lighting. There are many things that can effect the gap even when you get into assembly so it's hard to say. I've heard 6mm is what the gap should be but that's nearly a 1/4" and that's a large looking gap on these cars. I go for 5mm but again there are Many things to consider and there's no quick explanation. Make sure your "F, H and G" measurements are correct otherwise with the rubber installed it can push the door gap and make it tight. Oh and yes measure measure measure on these builds and stress is normal it helps make sure you do it right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[914350]

Pics.

[914350]

More progress pics.

[Cairo94507]

Great work on that driver's quarter panel. That damage appeared to be an old dent. Also very happy to see the space-saver arrived so the proper mounting and support can be fabbed up.

And that is not my actual wheel. Harvey (Weidman) told me mounting a space-saver tire on an early deep-six wheel is a real pain in the butt. Then you have to cut the space-saver in half to remove it from the rim. So he sent the space-saver mounted to a late deep six as the tire comes off easier. The dimensions are the exact same as it relates to everything else so when my wheel arrives with the space-saver it will fit perfectly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Cairo94507]

After I returned from L.A. I got a call from Jim as he was going through my parts. He identified some of the recently plated parts we apparently did not get when I picked up my car. Fortunately, we had a picture Scotty posted in Part 1 of my thread, (page 36, post 708) that showed all of the plated parts. We were able to identify the 6-specific parts we were missing. I circled them and identified them by name and scanned and emailed Scott those pictures.

Additionally, unfortunately, the rear bumper Scott had swapped me for my good condition chrome bumper is so badly pitted the chrome shop said they would not attempt to chrome it. To be fair, I knew my original chrome bumper would be re-chromed regardless. I asked Scott to weld up and metal finish the tow hook hole on it. Scott explained he had a painted bumper in good shape that would be easier to weld and then have plated. I agreed, having not seen that bumper. He welded up the hole and metal finished it. I cannot use it due to the pitting. So I have asked Scotty to return my original chrome bumper.

I hope to hear from Scott soon that he has located my missing parts and is shipping them to me.

[914350]

More progress pics.

[914350]

More pics.

[914350]

More.

[sixnotfour]

Whole Again...color ????????????????????

[Cairo94507]

I know.... I see some front fenders....but I do not believe they are completely welded on yet. But thank God and Kent the rear of the car is squared away and I believe the metal work is done back there. Pretty soon now all metal work will be finished and then comes body work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .

[sixnotfour]

I font know looks good.....

[Cairo94507]

I can't really express how relieved I am that my Six is getting straightened out and will soon be ready for some color. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[raynekat]

It's looking really good. Congrats....must be relief on many levels.

[ConeDodger]

I’m told by John at EASY that the 944 Turbo (and I’d imagine the S2 since they’re the same chassis) have the lightest spare wheel in 5 lug. And it’s alloy so you could polish it. Probably sell that deep six Fuchs wheel and pay off the rest of your project the way early Fuchs prices have been going! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

What??? Your’re thinking of painting a real six chassis in a non-original color? There’s a rule against that somewhere! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)

[rgalla9146]

That's not a deep six.....but I agree about the color.... if you must change it, do stay with a color from that year.

[mepstein]

Looking really good Michael. Huge difference from the east coast massacre.