Nine Fourteen Sex, The on going story of Love and Lust for a Machine. Options

[914 Ranch]

From the body too the muffler bracket the shape of the rear diffuser. The foam board is the shape of the skrake and the piece of aluminum is 3/4x3/4x1/16 shaped by my shrinker and stretcher.



I like the shape and it clears the muffler and it points at the flat bottom of the bottom of the interior.

[sixnotfour]

Cant Waite to see, more

[914 Ranch]

Yeah, I want to see more too. I've been getting brackets and patterns together for the assembly of a buck of sorts. I'm going to attempt to make the diffuser in the shape of the rear of the car without the bumper or moldings. I stole that shape from the rear edge of the trunk hood. The back edge is going to be a problem but like everything else I'll handle it when I get there.



Gathering pieces.

[914 Ranch]

Just another picture...



More bracketing, awaiting some more hardware.

[914 Ranch]

Cut and bent all of the supports for the strakes today. Probably layout the strakes tomorrow, then I get to build the buck.



Boy this is going to be interesting. It won't have a straight top edge.

[914 Ranch]

Still collecting parts, I have all the strake supports. The curved piece for the upper edge is there I won't know about mounting the quick release latches until I have the diffuser ready to fit. Just about time to cut some metal.

[914 Ranch]

In this picture the brass coupling will accept a10 bolt which is what I'm using for exhaust flange to muffler bracket. I need to change out 2 of the existing bolts for some about an inch longer.

[914 Ranch]

WOW, 69 THOUSAND Viewers.
I wish I was as hardware rich as The man Master Musk. I only have a bunch of scrap to draw from. But I am flowing his pattern on iterations. On my third for this bracket

[914 Ranch]

My dilemma is with the location of the brackets. Inside or outside of the exhaust system. The brace across the leading edge will be riveted to the skin of the diffuser about an inch from the leading edge. What I would like to do is flange the leading edge to go over the panel in front of it. I just bought a new bead roller from Eastwood. I really wanted a 30" combo slip roller, shear brake but I ran out of money. The bead roller will give me the flange I want at the top of the diffuser which is a compound curve.

[914 Ranch]

Exhaust muffler flange bolt.



Now I'm going to make sure it.fits.

[914 Ranch]

The leading edge brackets and support are hanging on the muffler flange bolts. The trailing edge support is taped to the body where I hope the diffuser lands.



It's coming along nicely, it's probably time for me to make a buck.
When I make me go WOW, I know that I am on the right path.

[914 Ranch]

I try to make my work look good but I am not looking for class A finish. But what I'm about to do can make me look really bad. I always leave divots and ripples in sheet metal work. In order to help me with this I'm going to build a buck. The finish product will be about 3/16" narrower at the top than the leading edge. The trailing edge gets a piece of aluminum and the skin will flange over it. That piece has already been fitted is in the picture below. I ordered a bead roller for that and it arrived yesterday, broken. Top shaft not engaging. The strake supports all ready for the strakes. All the strake supports will get their final shape when they get to riveted to the strakes. I need to cut the strakes.

[914 Ranch]

I don't even have a normal vision of what pizza is...



I chose a frozen one and add about 3 pounds of stuff to it...

[914 Ranch]

I think I'm on strake pattern number 5. Every one I liked more. This one lines best at the top and the leading edge.



It's gonna take 3 post to get all of the pictures in.

[914 Ranch]

The trailing edge lining up completely and the leading edge is lining up with support.

[914 Ranch]

And the trailing edge is lining up with the body.

[914 Ranch]

From the muffler bracket to the black body line under the tail lights. The diffuser will be clean line for the back of the car.



I don't seem to be able to get a better picture at this time.

[Shivers]

Pretty cool, Joe (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) I'm not sure how this all works, but I was wondering, would it screw anything up to use one of those fiberglass bumper toppers to give the fins something to terminate into? Hope you are feeling alright

[914 Ranch]

Hey Paul, I'm doing really good,how about you. This will be easier to understand when it's all together. I'm trying to give the air under the car an exit. When tied into a car with a little rake and a flat bottom those little PSI's come in square feet. When Jim Hall figured it out he had the poll at Indy by 4 seconds. He was probably the first guy to use a skirt and rake.

[Shivers]

Hey Paul, I'm doing really good,how about you. This will be easier to understand when it's all together. I'm trying to give the air under the car an exit. When tied into a car with a little rake and a flat bottom those little PSI's come in square feet. When Jim Hall figured it out he had the poll at Indy by 4 seconds. He was probably the first guy to use a skirt and take.

I'm hanging in there dude. So by creating a more traditionally shaped airfoil by tapering the back up, it becomes more efficient? If so that makes sense. where does the cooling air go, you ducting that off to the side? I'm kind of curious to see how this works, I'm far from done. Any guesses at what speed this will become effective? Thanks