Tony's Subaru Conversion Thread Options

[TonyAKAVW]

watch out for speedbumps...don't want to mess up that beautiful work!...

So here's the speed bump update. In the parking lot of my workplace, we have some really serious speed bumps. When I'm in the car alone, it doesn't scrape at all. When I have a heavy passenger it grazes the top but does no damage.


I drove yesterday from Redondo Beach to San Bernardino for the autocross and the coolant temp stayed below 200 degrees the whole way out (~60 degree ambient temp). On the way home (~80-85 ambient temp) the coolant temp stayed at 210, though I was driving considerably faster. It seems that about 65 mph is the sweet spot where the cooling system works the best.

There are still a bunch of holes (some big) to patch up on this thing before I call it done, so more testing will be needed at that point. Also BJ gave me the idea yesterday of adding a rubber flap just below the opening of the scoop to help build more pressure. Definitely want to try this out.

Cooling at the autocross was a bit worse. I managed to get it up to 220 or 225 after maybe three hard runs. (this was the second session, so the car was warm to start with). So I let it sit and cool off for a bit.

Ideally I want to be able to autocross the car, drive in hot weather and not worr about coolant temps. Im going to do all I can to get the mid-radiator setup to work better, but eventually I may just have to put it up front.

This is the subject ofa nother thread, but I got the car weighed yesterday at Joe Sharp's place.

1889 lbs with no top!!!!!
1908 lbs with top on
2057 lbs with me inside, no top

-Tony

[TonyAKAVW]

Some updates.

Cooling:

When I reversed the direction of the airflow I didn't reverse the direction of the fan blades. So this weekend I dug in and did that. It requires removing the alternator, air intake, top radiator hose, etc. Now that the blades are facing the right way they should be significantly more effective at providing decetn CFMs.

I installed a piece that Bondo made for me, its a billet temperature sender mount. I had been suing a sectino of galvanized steel pipe, but it had threaded ends and was leaking.

Lastly I added a bottle of Water Wetter to enhance the thermal contact of the coolant.

Clutch:

I had bought and installed a Terry clutch cable something like a year ago. It ahd no plastic sheathing and wore away at the clutch tube at the firewall. It caused me tohave to adjust the clutch cable routinely. So I took out the cable (which was very close to breaking) and bought a new GEMO cable. It ahs a full plastic sheath all the way through the tube in the car. Also I machined a small aluminum insert to go in the worn end of the tube. It has a lip on the end so it can't slip in.

[TonyAKAVW]

I started working on the center console for the conversion. With the electronics and shifter mechanism exposed, a problem was waiting to happen. Either running my knee into the corner of the aluminum structure of the shifter mount, or liquid dripping on to the ECU wiring, something was bound to happen.

So the console is made principally from 1/2 inch high density fiberboard. Its heaver than I'd like, but will be strong enough to withstand a fair amount of abuse.

The entire console will bolt on to the center tunnel by means of three pieces of angle-stock aluminum. Two of the three are in place now, the third will be at the front, in front of the shifter. I'll use sheet metal screws to fasten it to the tunnel.

The lid for this will be a combination armwrest and shifter opening. Black carpetting will line the outside of the box, with the cushioned lid covered in black vinyl to match the door panels and seats. The lid will be fastened to the box with some kind of snap-in part. I haven't figure that out yet and need to see wat McMaster Carr sells. Being able to remove the lid will allow me access to the cable shifter for adjustments and the ECU electronics.

Ahead of the console on the tunnel (near where your feet go) will be empty, and I will probably build a second piece to put there. It will likely be a small speaker box that will be removable.

The piece of blue stuff is foam rubber from a seat pad that I found at REI. The strap is also from REI and holds the ECU against the panel. I'll probalby use the same foam rubber for the armrest. Its pretty dense and easy to cut etc.

-Tony

[TonyAKAVW]

The console is finished. I covered the console with carpet and the lid (held on by three black screws) is upholstered in black vinyl. Under the vinyl is a layer of headliner and the raised section is the back is a piece of high density foam rubber from a sleeping pad that I bought at REI. A little 3M Super 77 and a bunch of staples and here it is.

[Eric_Shea]

Excellent thread Tony. Your car is awesome. That's what this club is about (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[fat73]

No cup holders?! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Good work Tony (again). I'm about to do something similar for mine, but it won't encompass the shifter. You'll find that the center console idea that supports your right arm will come in handy if you ever take long road trip.

We're going to be doing a complete replacement back pad out of fiberglass so we can include some speakers and account for the roll bar. We'll probably also be doing some custom door panel armrests since the stock ones get in the way of the Autocar roll bar.

Again...you're an amazing dude. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smiley_notworthy.gif) Keep the info coming.

Ed aka W9R1

[jimkelly]

this may be worth something

http://www.cycoactive.com/Urabus/default.htm

[TonyAKAVW]

Its been a while, and thats mainly because I've been driving the car and enjoying it a lot! This past Saturday I swapped out the front suspension with one from a 1987 carerra SC. That means bigger brakes, an aluminum cross member, bigger torsion bars, and a bigger sway bar. In the process, the ride height is now lower and I like it! The problem is that I now get insufficient airflow under the car for the scoop. I know this because the morning I drove out to do the swap, the temp stayed under 195 and I was going up hills etc. That same evening driving home with the new, lower front end,it got several degrees hotter. Now part of that could be due to my front valence which had partially come off and blocked the airflow more, but I really want more margin on the cooling system.

First off, here's a picture of why my airflow is reduced. You can see that the scoop (aluminum piece just below the car near the back of the door) now has no line-of-sight to the airflow coming in from the front. Not good.

Second picture shows a radiator I just bought today for $75 from a local parts place. Its a radiator for a 1988 VW Jetta GL. They come in two widths, one for cars with AC, and without. One has a 675 mm core width (the one I got) and the other has a 525 mm core width. Fitment may be tight, but I'll report on that later today when I go pick it up. Its a dual pass "scirocco" style aluminum radiator with a 1.25 inch thick core. Ought to do the job fine up front.


By the way, if anyone wants to order this radiator, the place I used is called Pacific Coast Imports and they are at (310) 374-8933. Located in Hermosa Beach on PCH. I have been buying parts from them for a while now. They are very cheap, and have quite a few parts for 914s. Also, http://www.importedcarparts.com Considerably cheaper than Pelican in general.

[Aaron Cox]

going front radiator?

[TonyAKAVW]

Yep.

[Aaron Cox]

atta boy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[TonyAKAVW]

Picked up the radiator today and did some fitting. Width is PERFECT. I think this really will allow me to have a usable front trunk. Compared to the stock Subaru radiator, this one is an inch shorter. It is however a dual pass and has a thicker core. Should work okay.

[TonyAKAVW]

last

[Crazyhippy]

You want to pull that back a bit. Top roughly even w/ the back of the headlight buckets, vertical if it fits, otherwise kick the bottom back till it does.

Be sure any air coming in the front HAS to go through the radiator, otherwise it wont, and you run into the same problems you have now...

[drive-ability]

Tony,
Not that I disagree with Crazyhippy, but if you seal in the air inlet chamber real tight, to make sure every bit of air must pass through the radiator along with making sure your fans are shrouded just as tight you will maximize what you have. I would run 2 fans, so to allow the air have a larger path to exit the confined air chambers. I think that will help cool more effectively when the fans are off and at a cruse speed. I think with two fans your low speed cooling will be more effective. Surely you look like you know what your doing I'm just adding my 2 cents.. If it's not cooling well you can always move it back as Crazyhippy said.

[Crazyhippy]

The problem w/ the rad. being that close is getting air flow across the whole radiator. You end up w/ the bottom 1/2 of the radiator getting lots of airflow, and the top getting very little. W/ it set back a bit, the pressure is closer to equalized across the whole surface, letting the whole radiator work (and if 1/2 the radiator was capable of cooling it, why pay for the full radiator?)

Why not put an air cooled motor in it and forget all this radiator nonsense?

BJH (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[TonyAKAVW]

That makes sense about pulling the radiator back.

I'm planning on using two fans for sure. I've got two on my current radiator setup and I may just end up using those. On the other hand I have a couple extra fans and it would be nice to have the new cooling system fully ready for a fast switchout of the old one.

So my current project then is to construct some sort of bracket, some airtight shrouding, and a shroud for the back to act as a subfloor and duct. I'll have to figure out an intersting way to do that. Also would like to try to make room for one of those 911 compact spares.

-Tony

[GS Guy]

Tony - could you provide the overall width and height of that radiator? Also inlet/outlet sizes?

I've considered using that radiator for my "conversion", or a custom Afco Scirocco style (slightly wider than their off the shelf units). Obviously the OEM unit is a LOT less than an all aluminum radiator.

With proper shrouding and fans - think it'll cool a turbo motor?

Jeff

[Crazyhippy]

Tony - could you provide the overall width and height of that radiator? Also inlet/outlet sizes?

I've considered using that radiator for my "conversion", or a custom Afco Scirocco style (slightly wider than their off the shelf units). Obviously the OEM unit is a LOT less than an all aluminum radiator.

With proper shrouding and fans - think it'll cool a turbo motor?

Jeff

Size wise the scirocco should cool a turbo motor in all but the most extreme weather.

When you're sitting in phoenix traffic and it's 118* out... maybe not.

BJH

[drive-ability]

CrazyHippy has the right idea and you may just not have enough cooling capacity given the restricted flow. Again if you make sure all the air must pass through the unit it will give you your best shot. I would move it back and rearrange things. Really I would go with a larger unit to be sure your covered and have back up built in the cooling system, after all its a performance car and you just may
hammered a few times (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)