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> Tony's Subaru Conversion Thread
drive-ability
post May 1 2007, 04:37 PM
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If I do another engine conversion and I am sure I will, I will use an engine and transmission thats a factory package, no more adapting one engine to a different make transmission. They work but not like ones made for eachother....
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Porcharu
post May 2 2007, 10:49 AM
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QUOTE(TonyAKAVW @ May 1 2007, 03:24 PM) *

I have thought about using a Subaru transmission actually. I really should start thinking about it more because my 901 is going to need a rebuild soon. I think the cost of rebuilding a 901 would be higher than using a Subaru trans. I never did find out what is going on with the special axle/CV adapters though.

6 speeds might be fun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

-Tony


I'm still working on that part! I have to pester my machinist for the flanges.

Cost wise the Suby trans parts are WAY more reasonably priced than 901 parts - I just got a used helical gear LSD for about $200. New ones are in the $750 range. Close ratio gear sets start around $800 for a complete new set of gears.
Steve
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TonyAKAVW
post May 6 2007, 11:26 PM
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So last weekend I got the front opening for the radiator cut. This Friday I cut the exhaust holes, and today/yesterday I built the radiator shroud. I ended up going with sheet aluminum. Turned out very light weight and fits nicely. It will be riveted into the car and I'll use some silicone to seal the few gaps.

Powder coated flat black.

-Tony


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Crazyhippy
post May 9 2007, 02:20 AM
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Nice work...
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Aaron Cox
post May 9 2007, 12:28 PM
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we need installed pics!
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TonyAKAVW
post May 9 2007, 12:34 PM
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Maybe by this weekend. I've got to rivet on some angle-stock to the sides so the radiator can be held in place. Right now its just sitting there. Also have to mount the fans and run fan wires to the front.

My plan is to have this new cooling system completely ready to plug in. basically unplug the fan connector to the current system and the two hoses and conenct to the new system.

-Tony
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pankopp
post Jun 8 2007, 02:01 PM
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so what did you ever do with the fuel pump return? did you cap it off or tee them together? I didnt see it mentioned.


Great lookin build, i am taking the easy way out with the renegade kit, now i'm just waiting for it to get to my door.

Also did anyone ever find out if you could just use the stock subaru in-tank fuel pump. I have a full 2.2 litre legacy that is my parts donor, so if i can use as many stock parts that i have, the better.

Thanks!!

pankopp
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fat73
post Jun 8 2007, 03:43 PM
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QUOTE(Crazyhippy @ Apr 30 2007, 10:00 PM) *

QUOTE(toon1 @ Apr 30 2007, 10:52 PM) *

thought the NA was part of the serial #.

HOw does yours shift? better, worse or the same.


mine shifts like a 914... GREAT w/ new bushings, but if the bushings are worn, kinda like there is a coupler made of mashed potatoes somewhere in the linkage...

Tony's should shift much more consistantly, as there are really no bushings to wear, only the cables, and they last a LOT longer if taken reasonable care of.

If you don't want to go with the cable shifter I suggest the RennShift shifter. Makes a totally different transmission out of the 901, with no slop, if you have $475 to spare.

Also, this is the way I modified my shifter bar. It's important that you keep the geometry intact. I used the stock shifter bar to start with. Then I bought some 1/2 conduit. I decided where I needed to cut the shifter bar one spot at a time and marked the cut. BEFORE doing any cutting, using a permanent marker you draw a straight line intersecting the cut line. That way I could realign the pieces and not lose the geometry (i.e. twist the shifter bar). I inserted into each cut a small piece of the conduit, notched the conduit out and bent it using trial and error until I got the angles I needed. Then I welded up the shifter bar at each joint leaving the conduit in to help hold the angles. I believe I ended up with 4 cuts. Just make sure if you do this you weld up the shifter bar really good, otherwise it will crack on you and make you think you've lost the transmission (been there done that), making it hard to get into gear.

That way you don't end up with an ugly shifter bar that looks much different than stock, there's less guesswork, and you can keep the geometry pretty much intact.

My $.02 worth.


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Here's my shrouding from the cutout (which looks like Tony's except that I left a strip in the middle for bracing) into the nose. I riveted in the shrouding and sealed it up with that really nasty clear silicone. I'm interested in seeing what Tony comes up with for the radiator install. I used everything Renegade had and I personally think that the Ron Davis Radiator ($1000) is overkill for the EJ20. It almost runs too cool.

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Ed aka W9R1
lots of conversion pics at community.webshots.com/user/fat73
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fat73
post Jun 8 2007, 03:47 PM
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QUOTE(TonyAKAVW @ May 6 2007, 09:26 PM) *

So last weekend I got the front opening for the radiator cut. This Friday I cut the exhaust holes, and today/yesterday I built the radiator shroud. I ended up going with sheet aluminum. Turned out very light weight and fits nicely. It will be riveted into the car and I'll use some silicone to seal the few gaps.

Powder coated flat black.

-Tony

Awesome job.

Ed aka W9R1
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fat73
post Jun 8 2007, 03:52 PM
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QUOTE(TonyAKAVW @ Apr 30 2007, 11:02 AM) *

I didn't get time to cut the outlet holes, but they will be on the wheel wells as is commonly done. That inlet hole is about the normal size for front radiator isntallations. I probably could have gone with less, but now I have less sheet metal weight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Now I'm trying to figure out if I want to make an aluminum shroud or a fiberglass shroud.

-Tony

Instead of the holes through the fender wells, has anybody gone the GT40/Ferrari F40 route and modified the hood? I think that's what I'm gonna do on the one I'm building now.

Ed aka W9R1
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Luke
post Jun 8 2007, 08:49 PM
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Fat73 ,
How big is the Ron Davis core ? .. I'm trying to size mine right now ...
Thinking of a 13" tall 2.5 or 3" core Scirocco style for my turbo 2.0 ...
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fat73
post Jun 8 2007, 09:13 PM
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QUOTE(Luke @ Jun 8 2007, 06:49 PM) *

Fat73 ,
How big is the Ron Davis core ? .. I'm trying to size mine right now ...
Thinking of a 13" tall 2.5 or 3" core Scirocco style for my turbo 2.0 ...

It pretty much fills up the distance from the edges of the headlight buckets to almost the floor of the trunk. It actually sits on a Renegade aluminum platform that is about 3 inches high.

Here's a link to give you some idea. The radiator itself is about the thickness of the bend in the top of the shroud.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2122880320076795939jgizNP

Ed aka W9R1



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fat73
post Jun 8 2007, 09:30 PM
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QUOTE(Luke @ Jun 8 2007, 06:49 PM) *

Fat73 ,
How big is the Ron Davis core ? .. I'm trying to size mine right now ...
Thinking of a 13" tall 2.5 or 3" core Scirocco style for my turbo 2.0 ...

I don't want to hijack Tony's thread with my stuff, AND I suggest you take a VERY close look at what Tony's done. Excellent, excellent, excellent work. I wish he lived close to me.

I think his setup will work as good or BETTER and you won't spend nearly as much money on it.

I have a '72 that I'm going to start another thread on soon. In the mean time you can reference most of what I've done on community.webshots.com/user/fat73.

Good luck.

Ed aka W9R1
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fat73
post Jun 9 2007, 08:42 AM
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QUOTE(Luke @ Jun 8 2007, 06:49 PM) *

Fat73 ,
How big is the Ron Davis core ? .. I'm trying to size mine right now ...
Thinking of a 13" tall 2.5 or 3" core Scirocco style for my turbo 2.0 ...

One more thing you'll want to take into consideration then I'll shut up. If you're gonna run A/C in your car, the A/C condensor will have to fit in front of the radiator to get air flow on it to keep it cool, and you'll have to allow for the A/C lines to run into your shrouding. If you can get a radiator that'll fit with a condensor on it, that would be ideal. I'd suspect (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) stock subie condensor would be best if you can make it fit. I managed to get the stock compressor and A/C lines with my WRX Engine, so the A/C line fabricator used the ends at the A/C compressor off of the stock lines. I used Renegades condensor and dryer but then again I used the radiator setup too. Just my opinion.

Ed aka W9R1
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Luke
post Jun 10 2007, 04:30 PM
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Thanks for all the great advice ..
I wasn't sure if the stock style was enough against the turbo and the So. Cal 115ยบ days .. especially if I do some up grading ....

Putting the AC back would sure be nice ....

And not to steal your thread either .. thats a hell of a job on the ducting Tony, can't wait to see it finished ...
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TonyAKAVW
post Jun 10 2007, 04:49 PM
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Installed radiator.


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TonyAKAVW
post Jun 10 2007, 04:50 PM
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..


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TonyAKAVW
post Jun 10 2007, 04:59 PM
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Next step is to fix up the front trunk area for some storage space. I want to at least be able to fit a good size set of tools in there and there seems to be plenty of room.

-Tony
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fat73
post Jun 10 2007, 07:10 PM
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QUOTE(TonyAKAVW @ Jun 10 2007, 02:59 PM) *

Next step is to fix up the front trunk area for some storage space. I want to at least be able to fit a good size set of tools in there and there seems to be plenty of room.

-Tony

As usual, nice work Tony.

I wish I had more front trunk space. I wonder if a couple of sets of 90 degree elbows would be feasible to route the radiator lines over to the right and directly up to the radiator?

Hmmmm.....Probably would work.

Ed aka W9R1
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post Jun 10 2007, 07:19 PM
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Whose motor mounts are these?


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