T4 frustration, Got me thinking conversion Options

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Epstein. The pressure is off if you have one running. Converting to a Suby will run you 6K plus. There is great support for Suby conversions. It's been done several times and has supporting documentation here. Items such as the cradle, shifter, clutch pedal kits, etc. are available from suppliers. Ignore Elliot, he enjoys some form of solace driving around with 40 year old engine that costs as much to rebuild as a Lycoming. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) Here's a quick rundown of costs. Radiator, hose, fans and controller ~$650.00; 6 cylinder EZ30 range $800-$1200 + ~$150 shipping; TY-75 5 speed transmission ~ $600-$1100. Clutch, pressure plate, master & slave cylinder, shifter/cables and related hydraulic fittings ~$550-$750; Cradle & related appurtanances $300-$1000; fuel pump $100; ECU and required wiring $450, 1/2 shafts and CV's $300-$650, Starter ~$125; exhaust ~$650; suspension upgrade ~$450 if you stay 4 lug; stiffener kit for the longs ~$175 + 10-12 hr's to install; $1500 for AC and Heat; might as well have heated seats too ~$125; 75+ hours of cursing, ~300 hours of praying; 1-2 trips to the ER; 6 weeks min of mass confusion 90% of which is with the wiring, $450 dollars in Flowers to keep your wife from calling her lawyer. Should take 1-1.5 years if you can do your own work. Another 6 mo to chase down the Gremlins. So what does all of this get you? Reliability! And should you need parts they're available at your local FLAPS. No more traveling with a trunk full of spare parts. You'll be able to start the car w/o incantations or a bag of Snake Bones scattered about the floor. You'll have an OBD2 port for diagnostics. And as Ray mentioned; a big shit eating grin! It's not a trip down the Rabbit Hole as it once was. Many of us have done it successfully and are willing to help. There is even a Forum dedicated to water cooled 914 conversions. I've attempted to not Sugar Coat the process but now that you've been warned....................... the choice is yours. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[r_towle]

Less money, send car to mark, get it running perfectly, then fly up and drive it home before the check clears (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Mblizzard]

I have done a lot of things for myself just for the fun of it. But the best thing I ever did was working with McMark on my engine. Despite my multiple attempts to kill it, it still works. If you are not having fun trying to fix the problems and don't have the thrill of tracking problems down, then send it to McMark.

I would go 2056, have him set it up with MicroSquirt FI and ignition and you are done for a long time. You bypass potential (I said potential) carb frusrtration and have a system you can tune to meet your needs not someone else's. It is my opinion that you wil never fully get the performance out of any mods like going to 2056 with stock FI and if you want it just to work modern FI control is the way to go.

There is probably dyno data that contradicts my seat of the pants feelings. But i think there is some advantage to big valve. But if you chose this, go with bigger throttle body.