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orange914 |
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#1
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http://5starmediaworks.com/index.html ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,371 Joined: 26-March 05 From: Ceres, California Member No.: 3,818 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
i just got in a wreck in my 73 914 and the body shop is probably going to work on the car, while they were at it i was thinking of having them put some flares on... i was wondering what was better altogether... fiberglass or steel? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
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Mueller |
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#2
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
if money is no object, steel...
steel flares cost at a minimum 2X the 'glass flares and the labor to install them correctly (butt welding) is going to be expensive glass flares work fine and if done right last years and years..... a car with steel flares might have a slight edge when it comes to resale value get a quote from the bodyshop for both, that might make your desision a little easier (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) |
xitspd |
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#3
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Technology and Tradition 3.6 and 914-6 ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,305 Joined: 17-November 04 From: Foothills of Mt. San Jacinto, CA Member No.: 3,136 ![]() |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif) This is my opinion only! I would never do a fender flare that was not steel. I would however do a fiberglass quarter panel with no reservations.
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Kerrys914 |
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#4
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Dear, the parts I just sold paid for that part ;) ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,568 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Williamsburg, VA Member No.: 16 ![]() |
As Mueller said it juts comes down to COST$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I don't think anyone would choose FG flares over Steel if they cost the same. I have FG and it was a PITA to bond them and get them smooth. If you like the "Bolt-on" look the FG is the way to go. There are some owenrs on the board that have this "Bolt-on" look and it actually looks good (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) Cheers |
Marv's3.6six |
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#5
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Actual member 7" ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 695 Joined: 22-November 04 From: Huntington Beach, Ca. Member No.: 3,165 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Steel, FG will crack (eventually) Here is mine (under construction right now) with steel custom front spoiler!
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tat2dphreak |
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#6
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stoya, stoya, stoya ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
i voted steel, but glass CAN be fine, if it is installed in a professional manner... someone with good 'glass experience can make the flares look good...
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Root_Werks |
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#7
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Village Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,341 Joined: 25-May 04 From: About 5NM from Canada Member No.: 2,105 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
I voted steel, but if you install FG flares right, they will last many, many years. Glass flares are about 1/4 the cost of steel ones.
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soupbone |
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#8
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 43 Joined: 21-November 04 From: Hayward, CA Member No.: 3,157 ![]() |
So what is average ball park cost for FG or steel install with a respray? About how many shop hours?
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John Kelly |
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#9
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 692 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Moclips WA. Member No.: 640 ![]() |
If you have more time than money, stretching your own steel flares is the best combination of frugality and quality..an unusual mix:
http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/comm...d=9980138836765 We are having a workshop in San Jose June 12th if you are interested in this type of work. John www.ghiaspecialties.com |
andys |
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#10
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 21-May 03 From: Valencia, CA Member No.: 721 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I installed fiberglass flares, but if I were to do it again I'd go steel. The fiberglass takes a lot of time to get the featheriing and blending just right.
Andys |
Johny Blackstain |
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#11
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Walnut Elite Stratocaster player ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,434 Joined: 5-December 06 From: The Shenandoah River Member No.: 7,318 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
I'd use only steel for a street car & would use whole fiberglass quaters for racing.
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stepuptotheMike |
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#12
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medium pimpin ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 565 Joined: 4-September 06 From: Charlotte, NC Member No.: 6,769 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
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Krieger |
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#13
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,733 Joined: 24-May 04 From: Santa Rosa CA Member No.: 2,104 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I just did the rivet on fiberglass look for a track car. It took a lot of fitting. I'm picky and it still looks just okay. If your doing a street car go steel.
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jt914-6 |
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#14
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Driving & working on teeners 41 years ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,786 Joined: 3-May 08 From: Bryant, Arkansas Member No.: 9,003 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I did factory steel on my conversion. A friend had fiberglass on his and rocks from the road and track hitting from underneath started cracking the outer portion of the flares.
I think that with standard fiberglass you can get a 9" wheel under there in the rear, but with steel 8" is all you can get. At least on my LR, I don't have enough room for a wheel wider than a 8". |
Pat Garvey |
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#15
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Do I or don't I...........? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,899 Joined: 24-March 06 From: SE PA, near Philly Member No.: 5,765 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
You left out the "Don't do either" selection.
Pat |
jeeperjohn56 |
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#16
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 479 Joined: 9-July 06 From: Antioch,Ca. Member No.: 6,407 Region Association: None ![]() |
Mike, Tell me it didn't happen, But what happen ,curios minds want to know. John (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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cobra94563 |
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#17
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Chris ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 341 Joined: 1-March 05 From: San Francisco Member No.: 3,696 ![]() |
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MikeSpraggi |
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#18
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 781 Joined: 7-February 05 From: Silver Spring, Md Member No.: 3,570 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
No flares on the street /6. Fiberglass on the track car ... never know who you'll run into!
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jt914-6 |
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#19
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Driving & working on teeners 41 years ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,786 Joined: 3-May 08 From: Bryant, Arkansas Member No.: 9,003 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I think that with standard fiberglass you can get a 9" wheel under there in the rear, but with steel 8" is all you can get. At least on my LR, I don't have enough room for a wheel wider than a 8". 9in no problem for me! (w/steel) Got a friend with 9" BBS. I'm going to try his 9" on rear sometime and see how they fit on my car. I'd like to use some 8 & 9's, but won't buy any untill I know that 9's will fit on my car. |
tracks914 |
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#20
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Canadian Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,083 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Timmins, Ontario, Canada Member No.: 153 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I went FG for cost reasons. My car was dumpster material so I wasn't looking for originality. I just wanted a cool looking cruiser.
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