dyno run for 2366 with Web street cam and DLRA 45s Options

[ottox914]

Fix clutch. We want to see what that beast can do. While trans is out for clutch work, get it to Dr. Evil. He did my trans and the 914 has never shifted better. Be patient. He's worth the wait. I found a super heavy duty camo box at menards that was perfect for shipping. With that motor heat can be a thing. Watch the temps, change oil often, be sure the thermostat and flaps are working correctly, and that ALL engine tin is in place.

Then turn it loose!

[jim_hoyland]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The doctor is in the House. Dr Evil is the best !

[98101]

I appreciate all the support here!

Mechanic road tested my car and didn't get the clutch to slip. The clutch slipping problem seems to happen less often than a couple months ago when the car first came here. What could cause that?

The engine seems to run nicely with the new Dellortos ... no idea why it's underperforming on the dyno. Here's the exhaust system. We're having a hard time figuring out exactly where the leaks are coming from. Someone else said he also smells transmission oil burning on the exhaust (it smells different?). The transmission fluid level was slightly lower than the opening when we checked it today.

[Krieger]

If it is tranny fluid It looks like it coming from the front seal in the bell housing or the clutch pivot point. Either way you need to pull the transmission to fix.

[IronHillRestorations]

First thing to do is figure out the leaks.

[MarkV]

Looks wet.... gear oil has a distinct smell kind of like sulfur. Looks to me like either the
input seal on the transmission is leaking or the rear main seal on the engine.

Stick your finger in one of those drips hanging off the transmission and smell it...yuck. Easy to tell if its gear oil.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[98101]

Looks wet.... gear oil has a distinct smell kind of like sulfur. Looks to me like either the
input seal on the transmission is leaking or the rear main seal on the engine.

Stick your finger in one of those drips hanging off the transmission and smell it...yuck. Easy to tell if its gear oil.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

OK, will try that next time.

Could a transmission or engine oil leak cause the clutch to be contaminated?

The weird thing with the clutch is that the slipping was noticeable when I first got the car a couple months ago, and now it's not noticeable except for one slip on the dyno stand. What ever was on the clutch got burned off? It fixed itself?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0B61_5sRoBI


Gear oil level in the transmission was slightly low, not a lot.

At least most of the stuff is engine oil. I'm wondering how to track it down. Since the tranny needs rebuilding anyway, I guess we'd find out more then.

[lonewolfe]

Concur with the others, take a look at the clutch, fortunately that's a relatively easy job with a helper.

For further reference, my 2258 running 44 IDFs dyno'ed at 155 HP at 5000 RPM, max torque 175 lb-ft at 3000 RPM, measured at the crank.

What cam and compression are you running?

[ottox914]

Rear main, trans out put, or ball pivot could all provide lube that could contaminate the clutch. Drop trans and check them all. Self healing clutch? I guess anything is possible. My experience has been once they start slipping they are done, but that has been on well used parts. You'll learn more about the condition of the clutch and flywheel once the trans is out.

[VaccaRabite]

Trans out.
Flywheel off.
Show us your rear main seal. I bet its oily.

And this will contaminate your clutch and allow slippage.

Also looks like your pushrod tubes may be leaking.

Zach

[98101]

You guys are probably right that the rear main seal is leaking. I'm just wondering why it would develop a leak so quickly, since the PO built the engine a year ago.

[Dr Evil]

You guys are probably right that the rear main seal is leaking. I'm just wondering why it would develop a leak so quickly, since the PO built the engine a year ago.

But not the tranz. The tranz seal may be rael old and sat for how long? Still need to verify source, and trans has to come off anyway for that. Trans oil smells much worse than engine oil. You can compare stink to what you find on the dip stick (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[MarkV]

Isn't there a known problem with Erling rear main seals that always leak?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...12374&st=20

[Mueller]

I've used the UV leak detector kits with success before.

Not sure if I'd do engine or transmission 1st...just don't do them at the same time!

https://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-53351-B-P...ords=uv+dye+kit

[914work]

You guys are probably right that the rear main seal is leaking. I'm just wondering why it would develop a leak so quickly, since the PO built the engine a year ago.

Dyno pulls can put some serious stress's on a motor.
If there are weak points in the build it can expose them.
CAM walk, Weak seals, cooling issues, ect.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[98101]

I tried to smell the stuff today and it just smelled like oil. But it's possible I don't have a discerning pallet since I'm the guy who thought Coke and Pepsi were the same drink until there was a big fuss about New Coke.

Since the transaxle needs rebuilding anyway, I guess we'll learn more about the leaks and clutch then.

Could not induce any noticeable clutch slip today. Engine idles great, and drivability problems vanished when I replaced the DRLA 45s (which still have 35 or 36 venturis I think). Air fuel mixture was correct on the dyno.

If it's not a clutch problem, what's the next most likely cause of the power less than other big fours?

[98101]

Concur with the others, take a look at the clutch, fortunately that's a relatively easy job with a helper.

For further reference, my 2258 running 44 IDFs dyno'ed at 155 HP at 5000 RPM, max torque 175 lb-ft at 3000 RPM, measured at the crank.

What cam and compression are you running?

Also curious about the venturi sizes of engines that do this. Oh, and what RPM was peak horsepower?

[ChrisFoley]

...
If it's not a clutch problem, what's the next most likely cause of the power less than other big fours?

Camshaft and exhaust.
FC442 is a conservative camshaft for a 2366.
A 1 5/8" header is too small for a 2366.
European Racing Headers have long primaries, better for low end torque instead of top end.

BTW, 37 degree full advance is probably way too aggressive and may result in pre-ignition/high head temps.

[Dominic]

I noticed you have an additional oil cooler, if you remove these copper pieces that are blocking the air from exiting the fan shroud, your stock oil cooler will work properly. Trust me I've made this mistake before. That air has to escape out the bottom of the shroud (heater ports) for the cooling system to work properly.

[98101]

Camshaft and exhaust.
FC442 is a conservative camshaft for a 2366.
A 1 5/8" header is too small for a 2366.
European Racing Headers have long primaries, better for low end torque instead of top end.

OK. That makes sense. Is there any point in changing one and not the other? I'm thinking of living with the current performance until the next engine build.

BTW, 37 degree full advance is probably way too aggressive and may result in pre-ignition/high head temps.

I will back it off. I've always seen cylinder head temperature readings well below 350ºF, but it's winter here and I haven't pushed it very hard for very long.

Thank you for the expert help.