dyno run for 2366 with Web street cam and DLRA 45s Options

[98101]

I noticed you have an additional oil cooler, if you remove these copper pieces that are blocking the air from exiting the fan shroud, your stock oil cooler will work properly. Trust me I've made this mistake before. That air has to escape out the bottom of the shroud (heater ports) for the cooling system to work properly.

Yes, the car came from the San Jose CA area with a front oil cooler and those sealed shroud ducts. Maybe PO wouldn't have needed to add the oil cooler if he'd left those ducts open?

For two months here in Seattle the problem has been getting oil temperature up though. I've got that white milky condensation under the oil filler cap.

The air thermostat appears to reflect the correct cold position. I haven't found a way to test that the air flaps are actually closed with the tin on.

[ChrisFoley]

Maybe PO wouldn't have needed to add the oil cooler if he'd left those ducts open?

You absolutely need the external cooler with that displacement.
In fact, the stock cooler is almost no help compared to a front mounted cooler.

Another thing to consider - sandwich plates for external cooler take-off may create a separate issue related to cooling: Backpressure from the external cooler may cause all the oil to bypass the filter and the cooler. That's because of the bypass valve in the filter bracket which opens at a fairly low pressure differential.

[98101]

Maybe PO wouldn't have needed to add the oil cooler if he'd left those ducts open?

You absolutely need the external cooler with that displacement.
In fact, the stock cooler is almost no help compared to a front mounted cooler.

Another thing to consider - sandwich plates for external cooler take-off may create a separate issue related to cooling: Backpressure from the external cooler may cause all the oil to bypass the filter and the cooler. That's because of the bypass valve in the filter bracket which opens at a fairly low pressure differential.

Uh oh — would this also keep the filter from working?

What’s a better way to set it up?

In two months of ownership in the winter here, oil temperature slowly creeps up to 80ºC, then doesn’t budge above that. I have assumed there is an oil thermostat at work, as one was supposed to come with the Patrick Motorsports kit a previous owner bought.

[Mblizzard]

Maybe PO wouldn't have needed to add the oil cooler if he'd left those ducts open?

You absolutely need the external cooler with that displacement.
In fact, the stock cooler is almost no help compared to a front mounted cooler.

Another thing to consider - sandwich plates for external cooler take-off may create a separate issue related to cooling: Backpressure from the external cooler may cause all the oil to bypass the filter and the cooler. That's because of the bypass valve in the filter bracket which opens at a fairly low pressure differential.

I am running your Tangerine Racing Oil Pressure Relief Valve does that help?

[worn]

I noticed you have an additional oil cooler, if you remove these copper pieces that are blocking the air from exiting the fan shroud, your stock oil cooler will work properly. Trust me I've made this mistake before. That air has to escape out the bottom of the shroud (heater ports) for the cooling system to work properly.

Have to disagree. That is where fan outputs to the heat exchangers. It splits output between the HEs and the larger job of engine cooling. If you pull those caps the pressure will fall in the plenum feeding heads and cylinders. The heads will
be the biggest cooling concern at this point.

[Mark Henry]

Odd that it says it's a standard base circle cam, shouldn't clear one lobe with an 80mm crank.

Chris is right that's a conservative grind for the engine size.

[gothspeed]

I noticed you have an additional oil cooler, if you remove these copper pieces that are blocking the air from exiting the fan shroud, your stock oil cooler will work properly. Trust me I've made this mistake before. That air has to escape out the bottom of the shroud (heater ports) for the cooling system to work properly.

Have to disagree. That is where fan outputs to the heat exchangers. It splits output between the HEs and the larger job of engine cooling. If you pull those caps the pressure will fall in the plenum feeding heads and cylinders. The heads will
be the biggest cooling concern at this point.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with worn

Concur with the others, take a look at the clutch, fortunately that's a relatively easy job with a helper.

For further reference, my 2258 running 44 IDFs dyno'ed at 155 HP at 5000 RPM, max torque 175 lb-ft at 3000 RPM, measured at the crank.

What cam and compression are you running?

looks like a web cam 494 here:
http://www.webcamshafts.com/mobile/automob..._type_4_8v.html
Web 494:
.465/.465 IN/EX lift in inches
.280°/280° IN/EX duration in °



what size valves are in the heads?

[98101]

looks like a web cam 494 here:
http://www.webcamshafts.com/mobile/automob..._type_4_8v.html
Web 494:
.465/.465 IN/EX lift in inches
.280°/280° IN/EX duration in °


what size valves are in the heads?

Previous owner says stock valves.

(This is an old thread, but I guess it came back to life because I referenced it while asking about the downsides of ss heat exchangers for this engine.)

[gothspeed]

looks like a web cam 494 here:
http://www.webcamshafts.com/mobile/automob..._type_4_8v.html
Web 494:
.465/.465 IN/EX lift in inches
.280°/280° IN/EX duration in °


what size valves are in the heads?

Previous owner says stock valves.

(This is an old thread, but I guess it came back to life because I referenced it while asking about the downsides of ss heat exchangers for this engine.)

Thank you for the note. Stock 2.0 valves are a tad small IMO. Even for a 2056. Good to know the configuration (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[98101]

Odd that it says it's a standard base circle cam, shouldn't clear one lobe with an 80mm crank.

Chris is right that's a conservative grind for the engine size.

No idea why PO went to all that trouble just to use that cam. FWIW, he wasn’t very active on this forum.

I’m not feeling ready to split the case on a motor that was just built last year. Is there any point in bigger exhaust (background: currently has 1 5/8” European Racing Headers)?

Secondary consideration: Tangerine’s exhaust appeals to me because I’ve realized I’m old enough to appreciate a working heater and defogger.

[porschetub]

Odd that it says it's a standard base circle cam, shouldn't clear one lobe with an 80mm crank.

Chris is right that's a conservative grind for the engine size.

No idea why PO went to all that trouble just to use that cam. FWIW, he wasn’t very active on this forum.

I’m not feeling ready to split the case on a motor that was just built last year. Is there any point in bigger exhaust (background: currently has 1 5/8” European Racing Headers)?

Secondary consideration: Tangerine’s exhaust appeals to me because I’ve realized I’m old enough to appreciate a working heater and defogger.

I don't really think a slipping clutch would even be a good start to a dyno test and surprised the guy even proceeded with a test,sorry but prefer to be honest,your cam as stated as mild,with stock valves that most likely isn't a bad thing,still really lost to why you are running 45's but I don't know your vent size,its important to remember you aren't after max HP @ the higher RPM range because you rarely drive there except the freeway,you really need a good power curve from 2500 to 5000.
Considering a good 2.0L stock motor can make 95bhp something is not right with your motor for that displacement.....should be lots more as suggested.
Tuning any aircooled engine to max power on a dyno is a recipe for destruction if timing isn't keep sensible many tuners don't know that.
Good luck.

[Mark Henry]

The valve size and header size isn't a huge issue we're only talking .078" (2mm) smaller (your 42X36mm vs my 44x38mm) than what's in my 180hp 2600cc (78x102 w/9.5:1CR) and I also run a 1-5/8" header.

The main two things will be the cam and CR. My guess is the CR is also set way low.

I run a WEB cam 163/86b, .507/.497 lift 288*/298* duration.
With this cam you have to run between 9.0 and 9.5 CR, plus dual springs, CrMo retainers, keepers, pushrods and all the other valve train goodies. WEB says this is a race cam but to me it's a well rounded hot street cam for large displacement engines. Good, slight lumpy idle, gobbs of torque, for your engine spec it would be the one I recommend.

Timing I run 28* total, anything over 30* is too much, I bet you're pinging even if you can't hear it. At 36* your engine will have a short life.

On the clutch you definetly have a oil contamination issue, the stock clutch can handle 180 bhp, I cut my flywheel 2nd step an extra .010 for slightly more holding power.
I'm right on the clutch limit with my engine Hp and once last fall was the first time I felt any slip, after 5 years of hard launches.




BTW For some reason I thought you said a 80 stroke, but looking back I see it's 71X103mm so the standard base circle on the cam is fine.