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Costa05 |
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#21
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 320 Joined: 27-October 16 From: Phoenix, Arizona Member No.: 20,535 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
Milt Becker (Zeke) applied Ospho after patching the hell hole area in the 'BB' and told me to rinse with water and immediately blow the area dry with compressed air the following day. Next was primer and a couple days later the top coat. I hit the tunnel with the Eastman Internal Frame Coating prior to installing the shift rod & lever, still want to coat the longs at some point. Being on the west coast (CA & AZ), I doubt I'll need anything else (like wax) in the cavities. I agree. But instead of Ospho I am using this Home Depot stuff which is really affordable. Brush it on or spray bottle even. Several coats over a couple hours. Wire brush where you can reach. Goes black like rust converter. Rinse with water. Immediate compressed air to dry. Heat gun if you are concerned. Hit it with epoxy, acid etch prime, or Por 15 soon. Works for me anyways. Rich Attached image(s) ![]() |
bbrock |
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#22
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
I'm using the Klean-Strip brand from home depot also. I wound up following this same procedure for the roll bar. Ospho equivalent, rinse, dry, Eastwood frame coating. I'll still follow up the Eastwood with cavity wax in any opening I can access after the welding is done. I agree it isn't necessary, but I've seen firsthand how well the wax works and the Eastwood stuff is still a bit of a question mark IMO. Belts and suspenders.
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IronHillRestorations |
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#23
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I. I. R. C. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 6,812 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
I'd use a one part rust neutralizing epoxy paint before cavity wax, like Eastwood's Corroless
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bbrock |
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#24
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
I'd use a one part rust neutralizing epoxy paint before cavity wax, like Eastwood's Corroless I'm not familiar with that product. When I search "Corroless" on their web site, their rust encapsulator products show up, which I have used. But I'm not sure how that would get delivered inside the cavities. That's why I've been planning on Eastwood Internal Frame Coating before the cavity wax where possible. But yes, definately some type of rust converter/neutralizer before the cavity wax. Always interested in better products to get the job done. |
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