door jamb air tube, braze or weld? |
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door jamb air tube, braze or weld? |
bbrock |
Feb 7 2018, 10:48 AM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Time for another episode of "Overthinking the Build." I planned to braze in the fresh air tube in the door jamb and the corner at the bottom of the jamb to match what the factory did. Brazing makes sense in those spots. Problem is, I don't have a torch and haven't been able to find one to rent or borrow (we are down to only one tool rental outfit around here). Can't justify the expensive of an acetylene torch. Bernzomatic has a cheap MAPP/Oxygen brazing rig but the reviews are pretty much universally shitty. Starting to think grabbing the MIG and being done with it is the way to go. Let's assume this was a "high end" restoration. Would that be acceptable?
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bbrock |
Feb 7 2018, 11:53 AM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
The question may be moot. Sounds like my neighbor has a torch I can borrow.
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Tom_T |
Feb 7 2018, 12:13 PM
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#3
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,320 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
.... Let's assume this was a "high end" restoration. Would that be acceptable? Brent, FWIW - even for high end restorations on something like a Mercedes 300SL, the guy I know with a shop specializing in them would probably do the internal connections welded over brazed, if it would be a better connection. But if something were brazed to not damage material, burn through, better connection or seal, etc.., then he'd do it that way. Of course he's got scads of every possible tool on hand! Nobody would be tearing that open to check for brazed tubes on your 914 anyway, if your neighbor's torch doesn't work out. Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Tom /////// |
defianty |
Feb 7 2018, 12:18 PM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 659 Joined: 9-August 06 From: Essex, UK Member No.: 6,621 Region Association: None |
I've just done mine today and I just used a few small welds. With the door jam welded in place the tube is very secure. After that I applied some PU seam sealer to make it water tight. Once that has a bit of paint over it and stone guard it'll be perfect.
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bbrock |
Feb 7 2018, 02:10 PM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Thanks guys! Everything you've said is right in line with what I was thinking, so I was all set to just weld the thing even though my neighbor is close by, it would still be a hassle to drag his rig over here, relearn how to braze since I haven't done it in 30 years. You can see where I already tacked them just to hold in place while I checked my door gaps. But he just showed up at my house with his torch in the back of his pickup. So I'll give the brazing a go.
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MarkV |
Feb 7 2018, 04:37 PM
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#6
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Fear the Jack Stands Group: Members Posts: 1,493 Joined: 15-January 03 From: Sunny Tucson, AZ Member No.: 154 Region Association: None |
Maybe you already know this or maybe it doesn't apply to what you are doing. When I welded on one of my tubes where it passes through the jamb I discovered that the factory used lead to fill the transition. Made for a mess with the wire welder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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bbrock |
Feb 7 2018, 06:40 PM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Maybe you already know this or maybe it doesn't apply to what you are doing. When I welded on one of my tubes where it passes through the jamb I discovered that the factory used lead to fill the transition. Made for a mess with the wire welder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Now that is interesting. I already replaced door jambs on both sides and cleaned the tubes down to the steel. I found brass, but no lead. I was even thinking as I took it apart that this would be a natural spot for lead filler, so I was looking for it. |
gothspeed |
Feb 7 2018, 06:55 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,539 Joined: 3-February 09 From: SoCal Member No.: 10,019 Region Association: None |
I've just done mine today and I just used a few small welds. With the door jam welded in place the tube is very secure. After that I applied some PU seam sealer to make it water tight. Once that has a bit of paint over it and stone guard it'll be perfect. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Mig spot weld as best as possible then seam seal ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
bbrock |
Feb 7 2018, 08:58 PM
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#9
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I've just done mine today and I just used a few small welds. With the door jam welded in place the tube is very secure. After that I applied some PU seam sealer to make it water tight. Once that has a bit of paint over it and stone guard it'll be perfect. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Mig spot weld as best as possible then seam seal ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Wise advice gentlemen!!! Of course, I ignored all of it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) After my neighbor went to the trouble of bringing the torch over, I felt obligated to use it. I should have started this thread BEFORE I left him a message. Anywho, it had been about 20 years since I'd held an acetylene torch and 30 since I'd brazed anything. I practiced on a couple scraps of 18g sheet metal and then brazed up the spots. Took less than 45 minutes. No issues. I think you'll agree it was well worth the extra effort since it will make absolutely zero difference in form or function. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Actually, I guess I'm glad I brazed that little spot at the base of the threshold. It does seal that up nicely and adds a little bling while the metal remains naked. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
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