Alternator question., Not Charging. Options

[Spoke]

I placed a jumper wire between D+ and DF. Started the car and the multimeter showed no voltage change at the battery posts.

Correct me if I am wrong but the light failure should not be an issue when I jumper D+ and DF. Jumpering D+ and DF effectively bypass the light.

Check the bulb resistance with your multimeter. If it is open, it needs to be replaced. Not sure what wattage it is. Someone else should chime in on that.

Jumping D+ to DF will not get the alternator started if the bulb is not in the circuit. The bulb provides a bit of armature field current to get the alternator started. Then D+ will pull up DF and the alternator will produce maximum output of about 17V.

[Gatornapper]

Spoke -

Bulb is fine, lights brightly both with ignition on, engine not running, and when engine is running.

Remember? I checked to make sure it was 2 watt, which it was, and I still put in a new one.

Weird thing is new Bosch VR charges fine - but GEN light stays on most of the time. New SS VR - light is off, but max. voltage to battery is 12.4 to 12.6.

Still have to do the tests you listed....been busy.....

GN

I placed a jumper wire between D+ and DF. Started the car and the multimeter showed no voltage change at the battery posts.

Correct me if I am wrong but the light failure should not be an issue when I jumper D+ and DF. Jumpering D+ and DF effectively bypass the light.

Check the bulb resistance with your multimeter. If it is open, it needs to be replaced. Not sure what wattage it is. Someone else should chime in on that.

Jumping D+ to DF will not get the alternator started if the bulb is not in the circuit. The bulb provides a bit of armature field current to get the alternator started. Then D+ will pull up DF and the alternator will produce maximum output of about 17V.

[AZBanks]

I think Spoke's response was for me. Sorry to hijack your thread. I'm having the same or at least a similar issue to what you are facing so I jumped in here instead of creating a new thread.

Spoke -

Bulb is fine, lights brightly both with ignition on, engine not running, and when engine is running.

Remember? I checked to make sure it was 2 watt, which it was, and I still put in a new one.

Weird thing is new Bosch VR charges fine - but GEN light stays on most of the time. New SS VR - light is off, but max. voltage to battery is 12.4 to 12.6.

Still have to do the tests you listed....been busy.....

GN

I placed a jumper wire between D+ and DF. Started the car and the multimeter showed no voltage change at the battery posts.

Correct me if I am wrong but the light failure should not be an issue when I jumper D+ and DF. Jumpering D+ and DF effectively bypass the light.

Check the bulb resistance with your multimeter. If it is open, it needs to be replaced. Not sure what wattage it is. Someone else should chime in on that.

Jumping D+ to DF will not get the alternator started if the bulb is not in the circuit. The bulb provides a bit of armature field current to get the alternator started. Then D+ will pull up DF and the alternator will produce maximum output of about 17V.

[AZBanks]

I picked up a set of dash light bulbs from the bird. I thought I was getting one bulb so I ordered two. Turn out, I got two sets. If anyone needs a dash light bulb, let me know and I'll drop one in the mail, I have PLENTY!

I swapped out the bulb and nothing changed. Still no light when the key is in the on position.

[Spoke]

I swapped out the bulb and nothing changed. Still no light when the key is in the on position.

Assume you're talking about the GEN light. Please get your voltmeter, start the car, measure:V+, VD, V-, and Battery to chassis. So much information about the state of the charging system is contained in one of these charging voltage sets. Please take all 4 measurements at the same time. Should take about 1 minute. Write them down and let me know what they are.