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> Additional oil cooler
worn
post May 8 2018, 06:57 PM
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QUOTE(GeorgeRud @ May 8 2018, 05:00 PM) *

Those surely look beautiful! Another thought is to check the sender in boiling water to see where it reads on the gaug.

At standard pressure that is 100 degrees C or 212 F. No matter what! Assuming it is water only.
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gothspeed
post May 8 2018, 07:00 PM
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QUOTE(porschetub @ May 8 2018, 02:32 PM) *

You should be running a 150C sender (300F) I would be inclined to replace it ,if you get no improvement take the gauge and sender to a auto electrician and have it checked/calibrated.
If the above is done you need then proceed with the following;
Check timing isn't over advanced,
Make sure the carbs aren't jetted lean,
Is the fan belt tight,
Is the air deflector on the back of the altenator in the correct position,
All spark plug seals and engine tin seals in place,
Is the thermostat operating correctly,
Has the heater system got the correct heater valves.
Do you have the correct valve clearances.
One or more of the above things can amount to your overheating,I would start with the timing and carbs first,you look to be running it the 120C+ range which rather hot...not something that is good for your engine.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Plus check idle speed and as mentioned above, check your A/F ratio (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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mskala
post May 8 2018, 08:15 PM
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If this is a conversion, did you remove the rain tray? You could go for the 'GT'
lid which is all mesh, it will get more cooling. I did an experiment and under
otherwise identical conditions, removing the stock lid entirely did drop the temps.

You can add the underbody flaps if they are not already there.

After all else is done, you could check that the cam timing is okay.
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IronHillRestorations
post May 8 2018, 08:57 PM
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I like to put the aux oil cooler in the right rear quarter panel, in the same area as the oil tank (on the opposite side). It take a bit more head scratching, but it's a much simpler way to go, without running 20' of oil line, taking up front trunk space, or putting a cooler above the already warm exhaust.

I'm doing a major resto on a 6 and am using that location. I should be detailing this install in the next couple months.
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JmuRiz
post May 9 2018, 07:14 AM
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QUOTE(Perry Kiehl @ May 8 2018, 06:57 PM) *

I like to put the aux oil cooler in the right rear quarter panel, in the same area as the oil tank (on the opposite side). It take a bit more head scratching, but it's a much simpler way to go, without running 20' of oil line, taking up front trunk space, or putting a cooler above the already warm exhaust.

I'm doing a major resto on a 6 and am using that location. I should be detailing this install in the next couple months.

I'll be keeping an eye out for that, sounds like a good idea...what engine sizes would that support?
2.7 RS+ spec? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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IronHillRestorations
post May 9 2018, 07:47 AM
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Jim, I did the first one on a 3.0 and it worked fine, I never saw over 220 on a hot day in TN.

For this project I have the rear quarter panel off, so I'm going to try and see what's the largest one that will fit.
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cal914
post May 11 2018, 01:28 PM
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Had the timing set 29 degrees from 35 but that stil hasn’t made any real difference if any ,having the carbs rejetted neck week but can’t see that making any real difference .I did notice that the engine tin rubber doesn’t fit very well and there’s gaps ,would this make any real difference Attached Image
The engine was rebuilt by a very creditable Porsche mechanic so I don’t think it is any thing to do with the engine it must be something to do with the oil circulation any ideas what I could check next
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porschetub
post May 11 2018, 04:59 PM
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The engine tin seals tend to shrink with age and go hard,yours aren't bad enough to cause your issue.
Have you checked your gauge/ sender to confirm you are actual overheating? I made a point of calibrating mine with other gauges and senders...got the same result,no point in have gauges if they are unknown or don't read correctly.
Have you tested your thermostat for correct operation,these don't fail often but can,you could well have limited oil flow through your oil cooler ,I checked mine as per a Pelican forum article.
Sometime ago 1 member on here had overheating issues because he had 4 cyl heater valves reason I mentioned it in a previous reply and I notice you have heat exchangers so these need to be right ones or modify them to work.
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jim_hoyland
post May 11 2018, 06:22 PM
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QUOTE(GeorgeRud @ May 8 2018, 05:00 PM) *

Those surely look beautiful! Another thought is to check the sender in boiling water to see where it reads on the gaug.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) a must do before anything else; plus you can get the sender PN at the same time.
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porschetub
post May 11 2018, 11:34 PM
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Lots of advice on the here for the OP's issues and he cross posts over to Pelican..that's fine with me but there is so many more guys done "6" conversions on here and he has supplied little or no info on his build,his engine builder is the right guy ?..,.but really people make mistakes,anyway rant over.
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cal914
post May 12 2018, 07:54 AM
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QUOTE(porschetub @ May 11 2018, 09:34 PM) *

Lots of advice on the here for the OP's issues and he cross posts over to Pelican..that's fine with me but there is so many more guys done "6" conversions on here and he has supplied little or no info on his build,his engine builder is the right guy ?..,.but really people make mistakes,anyway rant over.


If you haven’t got anything helpful to say why say anything at all?!

Thank you

Brian
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767driver
post May 14 2018, 12:54 PM
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QUOTE(cal914 @ May 8 2018, 09:01 AM) *

I have a 6 engine that has been uprated to 2.2 with E cams,the temp gauge keeps edging the red part of the gauge ,I e been told by the guy who rebuilt the engine that I probably need another oil cooler,can you only have these fitted in the front boot space or are there other places in the engine bay that they can be fitted
Hope this makes sense
Thanks Brian


Are the ducts that take air from the cooling fan shroud down to your heat exchangers connected? When I first bought my 914-6 with a 2.3L it was running hot. I re-installed those 2 ducts to the heat exchangers and it helped a lot. Make sure the heater valves are also installed. Those exchangers need air moving through them or they become heat sinks. The driver's side H.E. is right under the oil cooler.
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porschetub
post May 14 2018, 08:09 PM
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QUOTE(cal914 @ May 13 2018, 01:54 AM) *

QUOTE(porschetub @ May 11 2018, 09:34 PM) *

Lots of advice on the here for the OP's issues and he cross posts over to Pelican..that's fine with me but there is so many more guys done "6" conversions on here and he has supplied little or no info on his build,his engine builder is the right guy ?..,.but really people make mistakes,anyway rant over.


If you haven’t got anything helpful to say why say anything at all?!

Thank you

Brian



Oh ok trying to help (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ,you have dragged out the issue by not answering any questions put to you,I was merely passing on from my conversion and years of engineering experience .
Sorry I have upset you Brian.
Thank you (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) ,as I said go well.
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