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> Roger's 914 thread., I could have had a V8!
Lou W
post Aug 2 2005, 03:10 PM
Post #141


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QUOTE
rogergrubb Posted on Aug 2 2005, 02:00 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Holy crap.

That's probably why I've noticed my engine sitting lower in the engine compartment.... (extra clearance)

I wonder if this will throw off geometry of the rear wheels?

I like the extra clearance but it makes sense that everyone else seems to not have the throttle cable coming out directly into the crank pulley issue that I had...  


There goes your distributer clearance. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)
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John2kx
post Aug 2 2005, 09:01 PM
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Roger,

This is the best picture I have of this area and only shows the bottom area were talking about. As previously mentioned, the motor mount "bar" is mounted solid at the outboard locations. The only place 911 sport mounts are used are in the rear to secure trans. to chassis and I believe you already have that part figured out.

If your taking pics tonight, shoot both areas to make sure were comparing apples to apples.

John


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Dr. Roger
post Aug 2 2005, 11:00 PM
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It's funny when I was at Easy I asked for 911 motormounts and they gave me 4 of them.

I naturally assumed that I needed 4. LOL (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

While the motor is lowered i'm going to now clearance the firewall for the engines higher resting place.....

John, do youuse that huge moulded washer for on top of the motor mount? Above the body?

No, I cannot remove the dizzy. I couldn't before. =-)
No, an HEI wil not fit without the use of an angle grinder or sawzall.
An old school Mallory dual point will fit very nicely and does.

Yes, i'm a little pissed at myself. Oh well, tomorrow is a new, great day.

Running by this weekend??? Maybe..... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rocking nana.gif)

This post has been edited by rogergrubb: Aug 2 2005, 11:03 PM


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John2kx
post Aug 3 2005, 05:23 AM
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For the mounting of transaxle, this is how I mounted mine using 911 sport mounts.


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John2kx
post Aug 3 2005, 07:32 AM
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Here's a little better picture of what the motor mount bar bolts to. What you can't see in this picture, because of the cable in the way, is where your bolt goes through rectangular piece.


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Dr. Roger
post Aug 3 2005, 08:54 AM
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John,
As you may have read, I got this car without engine or trans and a box of bolts. That's it. =-)))

Since i've never put one of these things together i'm having to figure out most of the assembly with the clubs members help.

This is what was included in the box...


I think maybe the pair of brackets will be OK. What do you think?


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John2kx
post Aug 3 2005, 09:48 AM
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The one on the left is for the motor mount/bar and is what your bar will bolt directly to. Hopefully you have another to match.

The other two will be used in conjuntion with the 911 sport mount to secure transaxle. You'll see them at the very top of stack in the pic I attached. These could be replaced with large flat washers and only serve to prevent bolt from pulling through rubber on sport mount. You will notice the large flat mushroom shaped piece at bottom of stack. This is part of the original trans. mount and required a notch be cut to fit around trans. adaptor provided with conversion kit. This one also could be replaced with a large, thick flat washer if you don't have these available.

John
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Dr. Roger
post Aug 12 2005, 12:06 PM
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Hey John,
Thanks for the PM! As a matter of fact I've been playing "Tour guide" for my g-friends mother who is visiting from Mexico City for the past two weeks. It's been fun. However there's this itch which has not been getting it's scratches.... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)

NO not THAT one... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool_shades.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif) The 914. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif)

We send her off on Sunday but i've got this afternoon to myself so i'll be brief here.]]

Just appreciated your support and yes, she is moving forward.

Without the 911 front motormounts on the 914 the engine will need clearancing. Dammit....

I've switched from "make it look pretty" mode, to "make her driveable" mode. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif)

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neo914-6
post Aug 13 2005, 12:27 AM
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QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 12 2005, 10:06 AM)
Without the 911 front motormounts on the 914 the engine will need clearancing.  Dammit....  

I've switched from "make it look pretty" mode, to "make her driveable" mode.   (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif)

Roger,

Is that hammer the firewall AND cut the trunk wall? My 283 had short valve covers so I'm afraid I will have to do some (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) for the 358

I'm to the point of just getting the V-8 running. I have to get it out of the garage so I can fit the engine in Neo914...
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Dr. Roger
post Aug 13 2005, 10:25 AM
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QUOTE (Neo914-6 @ Aug 12 2005, 10:27 PM)
QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 12 2005, 10:06 AM)
Without the 911 front motormounts on the 914 the engine will need clearancing.  Dammit....  

I've switched from "make it look pretty" mode, to "make her driveable" mode.   (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif)

Roger,

Is that hammer the firewall AND cut the trunk wall? My 283 had short valve covers so I'm afraid I will have to do some (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smash.gif) for the 358

I'm to the point of just getting the V-8 running. I have to get it out of the garage so I can fit the engine in Neo914...

Good morning Felix,

Yes, I would just plan on getting the engine in place, marking where the drivers side valve cover touches the firewall, and dropping the engine to "adjust" the firewall w/ a BFH.
A few touches w/ a BFH does wonders for so many things. =-) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

358? What is that? 350 bored .040 over???

After doing the math on mine... a 350 bored .030 = 355 cid..
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Dr. Roger
post Aug 19 2005, 04:23 PM
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Progress!!!!

Only thing left on cooling system is to wire water pump and mount radiator. All is plumbed including burp locations.

Fuel pump is mounted and wires run to old relay board.

Need to figure out what wires leading to relay board are for. Desperately. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/unsure.gif) The plan is to NOT use the old relay board. I will do something more up to date.

I already disassembled wiring plug and labeled pin numbers. Now just need to know what they're all for.

Mandatory foot shot is included... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)


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neo914-6
post Aug 19 2005, 07:38 PM
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QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 13 2005, 08:25 AM)
Good morning Felix,

Yes, I would just plan on getting the engine in place, marking where the drivers side valve cover touches the firewall, and dropping the engine to "adjust" the firewall w/ a BFH.  
A few touches w/ a BFH does wonders for so many things.  =-) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

358?  What is that?  350 bored .040 over???

After doing the math on mine...  a 350 bored .030 = 355 cid..

Got the cid from the PO, here's the specs
I guess you have to factor in the stroke as well:

358 cid - 30 over
Ross Racing Pistons
Eagle H Beam connecting rods – 6 inch
Edelbrock Aluminum Heads – 2.02 – 1.60
Forged crankshaft
Milodon gear drive
Cam – Edelbrock Hydraulic Flat Tappet – 134 – 244 @ 50 .488 - .510 gross
Compression 10:1
1.5 Aluminum Roller Rockers
High Volume oil pump
Two dyno measurements:
418 hp @ rear wheels
402 hp @ rear wheels
~440-460 hp @ motor
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John2kx
post Aug 19 2005, 08:18 PM
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Roger,

See if you can find what you need here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914_electr...al_diagrams.htm

If I still had my Renegade wiring harness diagram, I could simpify. Maybe Aircooledboy still has these and will chime in.

John
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Dr. Roger
post Aug 21 2005, 12:31 AM
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QUOTE (Neo914-6 @ Aug 19 2005, 05:38 PM)
Two dyno measurements:
418 hp @ rear wheels
402 hp @ rear wheels
~440-460 hp @ motor

Pi R squared is volume.


R squared= 4.0602
*3.1416=12.7556
*3.5= 44.6446

*8= 357.1568 cid.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Dang I thought I did this calc before... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) 2 extra cubic inches is not a bad thing....


BTW, what's this sender and where does it go? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)





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Dr. Roger
post Aug 21 2005, 12:38 AM
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Oh yea', this evenings update....

Ignition is done.
Water pump wiring is done.
Fuel system and wiring is done.
Gas in tank. =-)))
Starter is wired.
Re-ran plug wires and ballast resistor.

Got a blinking red light in the oil pressure warning area of the gauges and I don't know how to fix that.

I did have to cut some of the trunk... not much... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)


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aircooledboy
post Aug 21 2005, 07:44 AM
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Nice progress Roger. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

I'm not sure if you were serious, but that sender is your oil pressure sender. If you've got a flashing oil light on the dash, you have got some wiring errors. I will see if I can track down the Renegade wiring cheat sheet if you still need it.

Chris
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John2kx
post Aug 21 2005, 08:22 AM
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QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 20 2005, 10:38 PM)
Oh yea', this evenings update....

Ignition is done.
Water pump wiring is done.
Fuel system and wiring is done.
Gas in tank.  =-)))
Starter is wired.
Re-ran plug wires and ballast resistor.

Got a blinking red light in the oil pressure warning area of the gauges and I don't know how to fix that.

I did have to cut some of the trunk...  not much...   (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

Roger,

As Chris mentioned, that is your oil sender and screws into block, left side of distributor. Sender is capable of supplying signal for stock idiot light as well as optional pressure gage. There is a mark on each side of sender (i think a G and II) but can't remember off the top of my head which side is for idiot light. Normal operation of oil pressure light is to turn on "solid" with ignition switch on (engine off) and go out when engine is running with normal oil pressure, ie above 8-10 psi.

Note: you'll need a short piece of 1/8" pipe threaded brass (1-1/2"-2") and a 90 degree elbow for clearance. See attached pic.


John


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BIGKAT_83
post Aug 21 2005, 08:27 AM
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QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 21 2005, 02:31 AM)


R squared= 4.0602
*3.1416=12.7556
*3.5= 44.6446

*8= 357.1568 cid.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Dang I thought I did this calc before... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) 2 extra cubic inches is not a bad thing....


BTW, what's this sender and where does it go? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

Hate to take those 2 inches away from you but a stock 350 crankshaft is 3.48 inches not 3.5

Bob (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/huh.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/huh.gif)
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John2kx
post Aug 21 2005, 12:08 PM
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You mentioned a red flashing light in "oil pressure gage area". Parking brake will give red light if activated and is located at top of this gage. You can also get a brake warning light caused by faulty master cylinder. MC has a reset switch on side. Let me know if you need a pic.

John
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Dr. Roger
post Aug 24 2005, 07:43 PM
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Big thanks to John, Bob, and Mc Mark, for a floor jack. =-)

Hey John, I looked on the Master Cyl and saw little on the side. One electric clip and that's about it. If you have a pic handy that would be great. =-))

Today i'm extending the shift rod and setting up a custom gas pedal hinge.... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) ala door hinge. (no comments from the peanut gallery please.... ) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

I straightened the shift rod and it's about 1" short. I cut at the appropriate spot, welded in a 1" piece, and cannot get it in now.

So now i[m going to keep it in half and figure soem sort of disconnect device. easier for an oil change.

Chopped off a Vette muffeler and found that I can snub the end off and it will fit.....

Gotta go. Hot date with a 914... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)


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