Roger's 914 thread., I could have had a V8! Options

[Joe Bob]

That's an oil sender....

BTW...sent ya PM on the Supertrapps....

[Dr. Roger]

QUOTE (SEEMORE BUTZ @ Aug 24 2005, 07:02 PM)

That's an oil sender.... BTW...sent ya PM on the Supertrapps....

Hey Seymore, =-)

I checked out Summit for some Super Trapps and if I go that route it looks like I can get similar ones for less, new. Thanks though. Best of luck on sellin' 'em. =-)

[Joe Bob]

Last I checked they were 200 EACH...I'm asking 200 for the PAIR....

[Dr. Roger]

dasdasdasd

[Dr. Roger]

Engine DONE!

[Dr. Roger]

Pedal fix.

Tomorrow my buddy John is dropping by to start her up and stand by with a couple of fire extinguishers.....

More to come.

[Rand]

Keep it up Roger. You're getting close man! I'll avoid the comment about the rod working when it's extended... and just look forward to your next progress report!
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

[Dr. Roger]

Hey Mr. Z,

Do you have any close-ups of those SuperTrapps??? =-) (rethinking muffler options)

Rand, i appreciate your comments. And "yes" my rod will be extended fully from now on, 24/7.

I must be forgetting something...
Fuel
Water
Throttle
Clutch
Ignition system
Brakes

Oh yea, I have to wire the cooling fans...... Grrrrrrr...... Well almost done.

Keep ya entertained with a pic of me and Mom at the kite festival in Berkeley...

[redshift]

be very still... and run when i say.. there is an army of flying octopusseses behind you... ok... NOW! GO!!! RUN AWAY!


m

[Rand]

MILES, you never cease to crack me up..... Ghs342 23 3 432 35 543 4 42...... Yess, 42, after all. Phtblfthphht. Phtff. Ffft. Pht. 42.

Roger... Don't choke your V8 with SuperCrapps. Magnaflows would be nice.

I hope you'll get that manly beast to WCC06!!! Can't wait to see it first hand!

[John2kx]

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 24 2005, 05:43 PM)

Hey John, I looked on the Master Cyl and saw little on the side.  One electric clip and that's about it.  If you have a pic handy that would be great.   =-))

Roger,

Your close. Push the black button right next to the electrical clip that you located. Note: not the one being pointed out with blue tool in attached pic.

John

[John2kx]

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 24 2005, 05:43 PM)

I straightened the shift rod and it's about 1" short.  I cut at the appropriate spot, welded in a 1" piece, and cannot get it in now. So now i[m going to keep it in half and figure soem sort of disconnect device.  easier for an oil change.

Straighening the shift rod is not required and may be causing you the problem described. I recommend finding another, lengthening it as mentioned earlier and install. Another connection point would be my last choice. Note: shift rod should be made 1-1/4" longer than stock.

Shift rod can contact oil filter if you use one of the taller filters and will prevent install/removal of filter with shift rod installed......BTDT, just use one of the short GM oil filters to eliminate this problem (pic attached)

John

[John2kx]

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 24 2005, 08:57 PM)

I must be forgetting something... Fuel Water Throttle Clutch Ignition system Brakes

Roger,

Sounds like your getting close. A few things that come to mind:

Tach: some means of monitoring engine rpm during break in period. The stock tach won't work without modification connected to a v8.

Water temp/oil pressure gages: you mentioned having a oil pressure sender and assume you have that worked out. Water temp. monitoring is crutial to this project.....good gage installed?

Air removal from cooling system: I'd leave fill cap off to allow air removal until your ready to fire it up. You will notice the level drop over several hours. Continue to fill (cup size) until that time comes.

Cooling Fans: in addition to wiring them up for normal operation, I'd have a way figured out (ahead of time) to jumper the fans, providing constant running during the break in of engine. This will eliminate cooling system from playing catchup during this crutial time and prevent you from turning off engine (due to high water temp.) during break in.

Cooling system overflow tank: I don't see one installed in pics and advise using if not already in place. Add a couple of inches of water to tank prior to intial start.

misc.: battery @ full charge?

[maf914]

QUOTE (John2kx @ Aug 25 2005, 07:08 AM)

Tach: some means of monitoring engine rpm during break in period. The stock tach won't work without modification connected to a v8.

I am just reading along and learning as Roger tells the story and John and everbody's offers advise.

I thought I'd suggest a dwell/tach meter if you need a temporary tachometer. You probably have or can borrow one.

[John2kx]

When you are assured you have all your installation done, this is how I start a new v8 in a 914 (assuming you have a friend there to help):

-Fill port to cooling system open. Extra water available as well as radiator cap.

-Helper starts engine and keeps running until you can set idle to 2200-2500 at carb for 20 minutes.

-Helper bypass fans to run continiously

-Monitor fill port to cooling system. You should observe air bubbles forming and escaping from open port. Add water if you see the level drop. In about 3-4 minutes, water temperature will rise to about 160F, causing it to expand. At this point, install radiator cap. The object here is to allow as much trapped air as possible to excape before closing system up. Caution: Do not vary engine rpm during this procedure. Any drasitic changes in rpm will cause a big mess caused by coolant ejecting from fill port.

-Helper should monitor for leaks, fire, water temp, oil pressure.

-If you made it this far without any problems, turn engine off and burp air from top of radiator when temperature drops to about 170F. When a steady stream of water is visable at petcock, close it off........your now ready to hit the streets.

-I change oil and filter after intial break in or shortly after.

-If your running a kevlar clutch, you'll need to be very carefull for the first 100 miles.

-Between 50-100 miles, retorque ALL your cv axle bolts. This is critical as they will loosen initially with the v8 installed.

-Burping of cooling system: for the first several outings, burp the system by ensuring you have some level of water in recovery tank, open fill port while engine is cool (as in overnight) and start engine and allow to idle. Observe for air bubbles as engine temperature rises, add water if necessary. Heat soak engine by driving at least 20 miles in traffic as well as highway type driving at a minimum. When you get back home, turn off engine and allow air to escape from petcock at top of radiator when engine cools to 170F. During the overnight cool down (minimum of 4-6 hrs.), vacuum from cooling system will draw water from expansion tank back into cooling system.

At this point you should have air removed from sytem and should be able to establish a normal level in expansion tank, ie the same level when completely cooled. If your losing water in expansion tank, you've got a problem.

Have helper keep beer cold or make beer runs as necessary.

Good luck,

John

[914GT]

I'd recommend opening the radiator bleeder petcock while you are initially filling the system. Leave it open until a stream of coolant comes out then close it. Normally I never have to touch it again.

[Dr. Roger]

C5 'Vette muffler getting "shortened" (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) so it'll actually fit.......

[Dr. Roger]

Vette muff before gutting a little bit.

[Dr. Roger]

Getting gutted. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

For that "non-factory" sound.........

[Dr. Roger]

Dumping towards the outsides.