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> Replacing trunk hinge, Success, and hinge bolt mod.
Olympic 914
post Dec 4 2018, 02:38 PM
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Going to have to repair/replace the trunk hinge on the car this winter. It was repaired before.... but it failed in a different spot. I wonder if the trunk lid gasket was too tight and caused this failure?

I am planning on taking the engine out to make it easier to get in there and position it correctly and do a good job welding.

How many of you have done this repair leaving the engine in?


Attached Image


Attached Image


I am not an experienced welder and trying to weld it while bent over the fender and trying to even get the mig in there seems too hard.

I have already had the engine out twice since last Oct. so I am getting quite good at it.
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mepstein
post Dec 4 2018, 02:40 PM
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If you don’t need it to be original, Jwest makes a bolt in trunk hinge kit.
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Dec 4 2018, 05:14 PM
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engine in easy if you can spot weld, and now with McMark'd trunk hinge tool, can be retensioned easily


QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Dec 4 2018, 01:38 PM) *

Going to have to repair/replace the trunk hinge on the car this winter. It was repaired before.... but it failed in a different spot. I wonder if the trunk lid gasket was too tight and caused this failure?

I am planning on taking the engine out to make it easier to get in there and position it correctly and do a good job welding.

How many of you have done this repair leaving the engine in?


Attached Image


Attached Image


I am not an experienced welder and trying to weld it while bent over the fender and trying to even get the mig in there seems too hard.

I have already had the engine out twice since last Oct. so I am getting quite good at it.
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Dec 4 2018, 05:15 PM
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by the way in the back of the tech tips 700 is the procedure and placement diagram

QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Dec 4 2018, 04:14 PM) *

engine in easy if you can spot weld, and now with McMark'd trunk hinge tool, can be retensioned easily


QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Dec 4 2018, 01:38 PM) *

Going to have to repair/replace the trunk hinge on the car this winter. It was repaired before.... but it failed in a different spot. I wonder if the trunk lid gasket was too tight and caused this failure?

I am planning on taking the engine out to make it easier to get in there and position it correctly and do a good job welding.

How many of you have done this repair leaving the engine in?


Attached Image


Attached Image


I am not an experienced welder and trying to weld it while bent over the fender and trying to even get the mig in there seems too hard.

I have already had the engine out twice since last Oct. so I am getting quite good at it.


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Olympic 914
post Dec 4 2018, 05:59 PM
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QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Dec 4 2018, 06:15 PM) *

by the way in the back of the tech tips 700 is the procedure and placement diagram



Just checked my copy of the 700 Tech tips and was unable to find the placement diagram..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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jcd914
post Dec 4 2018, 06:10 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 4 2018, 01:40 PM) *

If you don’t need it to be original, Jwest makes a bolt in trunk hinge kit.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

This was the method I chose.
They come with backing plates so the sheet metal is clamped and the load spread out over more metal than the welded bracket.
I also like that the pivot is adjustable to help fine tune the trunk lid position.
Definitely not for the 'originality crowd' but a good functional solution.

Jim
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914werke
post Dec 4 2018, 06:34 PM
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The failure mode isn't tension, but rust. Or more precisely lack of lubrication that leads to rust. Once the shoulder bolt wears out its lube, its the beginning of the end.
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914_teener
post Dec 4 2018, 06:54 PM
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QUOTE(914werke @ Dec 4 2018, 04:34 PM) *

The failure mode isn't tension, but rust. Or more precisely lack of lubrication that leads to rust. Once the shoulder bolt wears out its lube, its the beginning of the end.



Looks like shear to me.

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amfab
post Dec 5 2018, 02:58 PM
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+2 for the JWest system.
Hardest part was getting the old hinge bits off
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Dec 5 2018, 03:22 PM
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the bottom of page 132

QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Dec 4 2018, 04:59 PM) *

QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Dec 4 2018, 06:15 PM) *

by the way in the back of the tech tips 700 is the procedure and placement diagram



Just checked my copy of the 700 Tech tips and was unable to find the placement diagram..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

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Olympic 914
post Dec 5 2018, 06:05 PM
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Damn.... My copy only goes to pg 125. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)


QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Dec 5 2018, 04:22 PM) *

the bottom of page 132

QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Dec 4 2018, 04:59 PM) *

QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Dec 4 2018, 06:15 PM) *

by the way in the back of the tech tips 700 is the procedure and placement diagram



Just checked my copy of the 700 Tech tips and was unable to find the placement diagram..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


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rgalla9146
post Dec 5 2018, 08:10 PM
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See current thread...'Replacing bracket for hinge pillar'
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Tdskip
post Dec 6 2018, 08:16 AM
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I haven't done it (yet) but I believe the JWest set up is an engine-in job.
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Olympic 914
post Jan 26 2019, 03:00 PM
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OK, decided to pull the engine to do this job.

Taped cardboard all around to protect the paint from grinding and welding spatter.

Cut the old ones out. the best way to locate the position is to mount the hinges to the trunk lid, put it in place lining up the trunk and then put a couple spot welds on it to hold things. take it back apart and then weld it up right.

After getting in there I didn't like the looks of the other hinge, So I cut them both out. and ordered new mounts form RD

Got the old ones cut out.

Attached Image

New mounts welded in. much easier without the engine in. you can just sit on a little stool and weld away...

Attached Image

Attached Image

Didn't want this happening again, and someone else had mentioned doing a grease fitting mod to the bolts. so over the lathe for a bit to cut a grease groove, then drilled and tapped for a fitting.

I also polished off all the paint on the mating surfaces with a wire wheel in the Dremel

Attached Image

Attached Image

Easy to get a grease gun in there and put a couple squirts in to keep things moving smoothly.

Attached Image

Kind of looks like it should be this way.




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914forme
post Jan 26 2019, 06:12 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) They look great, that trick was published in Pano a long time ago.

One quick question just for curiosity sake. I see you mounted the shoulder bolt in a what I am thinking was a piece of solid round that you threaded for the shoulder bolt to seat in. So not to ruin the the bolt threads by putting them in your chuck. Am I correct?

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Olympic 914
post Jan 26 2019, 08:45 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Jan 26 2019, 07:12 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) They look great, that trick was published in Pano a long time ago.

One quick question just for curiosity sake. I see you mounted the shoulder bolt in a what I am thinking was a piece of solid round that you threaded for the shoulder bolt to seat in. So not to ruin the the bolt threads by putting them in your chuck. Am I correct?


Yes, That, and giving me extra space so I didn't have to worry about crashing into the chuck. and I was able to use the same piece to cross drill the bolt with the drill press.

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IronHillRestorations
post Jan 26 2019, 09:04 PM
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Bingo! That's what I call the "Upfixen" mod.
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914forme
post Jan 26 2019, 11:04 PM
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QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Jan 26 2019, 09:45 PM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ Jan 26 2019, 07:12 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) They look great, that trick was published in Pano a long time ago.

One quick question just for curiosity sake. I see you mounted the shoulder bolt in a what I am thinking was a piece of solid round that you threaded for the shoulder bolt to seat in. So not to ruin the the bolt threads by putting them in your chuck. Am I correct?


Yes, That, and giving me extra space so I didn't have to worry about crashing into the chuck. and I was able to use the same piece to cross drill the bolt with the drill press.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I bought my Lathe and Mill used, and the last owner, not only ran into the chuck, but also expanded the 3 jaw to the point it hit the bed, and cross slide. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) I could never get the chuck to center properly. New 4 Jaw solved the issue. Tonight I was thinking about a new bed, and cross slide.
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windforfun
post Jan 27 2019, 11:23 AM
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I replaced my plastic rollers with metal ones. I think I got them from AA. FYI. Nice work BTW.
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second wind
post Jan 27 2019, 01:44 PM
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QUOTE(Olympic 914 @ Jan 26 2019, 01:00 PM) *

OK, decided to pull the engine to do this job.

Taped cardboard all around to protect the paint from grinding and welding spatter.

Cut the old ones out. the best way to locate the position is to mount the hinges to the trunk lid, put it in place lining up the trunk and then put a couple spot welds on it to hold things. take it back apart and then weld it up right.

After getting in there I didn't like the looks of the other hinge, So I cut them both out. and ordered new mounts form RD

Got the old ones cut out.

Attached Image

New mounts welded in. much easier without the engine in. you can just sit on a little stool and weld away...

So.....any chance you could make a batch of those nifty bolts and bless us other guys? Thank you. gg
Attached Image

Attached Image

Didn't want this happening again, and someone else had mentioned doing a grease fitting mod to the bolts. so over the lathe for a bit to cut a grease groove, then drilled and tapped for a fitting.

I also polished off all the paint on the mating surfaces with a wire wheel in the Dremel

Attached Image

Attached Image

Easy to get a grease gun in there and put a couple squirts in to keep things moving smoothly.

Attached Image

Kind of looks like it should be this way.

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