1973 2.0L Rustoration, Restoration turned OT garage build Options

[jd74914]

For you other TiG lovers, I have to plug this product. It is a pressure sensitive Amptrol. No need to move finger to control amperage - just press harder or lighter.

http://www.6061.com/tigbutton.htm

Wow, that is cool. Thanks for the info! I hate the finger slide or rotary track so much I've always either resorted for scratch start and constant current or ended up in weird positions working the pedal with my knee, elbow, thighs... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Kinda pricey piece though.

[Superhawk996]

For you other TiG lovers, I have to plug this product. It is a pressure sensitive Amptrol. No need to move finger to control amperage - just press harder or lighter.

http://www.6061.com/tigbutton.htm

Wow, that is cool. Thanks for the info! I hate the finger slide or rotary track so much I've always either resorted for scratch start and constant current or ended up in weird positions working the pedal with my knee, elbow, thighs... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Kinda pricey piece though.

Not so bad if you consider that it is only about 10% of cost to get into a TIG rig to start. Then there is the sanity element. I tried the Yoga thing and quite honestly, I had a hard time controlling it while welding on 1/8" tube. There was no way I could pull off the out of position welds on sheet metal without it.

Owner of the TIG button is a real down to earth guy. The site didn't specifically have my Precision TIG unit listed as compatible. He offered to let me try it risk free. Worked great right out of the box. After trying it there was no way it was going to be returned. I don't even use my foot pedal anymore . . . even if I'm welding on the bench. It's that natural.

[Superhawk996]

So I got around to splitting the case and the results aren't good. Did I mention I really dislike the way the previous owners treated this vehicle? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

The source of the rust that was in the top of the oil filler has been found. I quickly put the oil filler & breather box aside when I was doing the initial teardown. I could see had some rust & oily gunk in there but I didn't dwell on it.



If someone has one of these they would care to sell, there will be an ad going up in the classified section to replace this one. PM me if you have an extra you want to get rid of!

What I can't believe is how much more rusty garbage is down in the sump.

There is a staggering amount of rust and crap sitting on both sides of the case.

\

I find it a little bit hard to believe that all of this came out of the breather box.

There are other indications that this engine was not rebuilt properly.

I found a metal shaving behind one of the cam bearings. luckily there was no way for this to get though the bearing oiling hole. But it does speak to the fact that the oil galleys probably were not cleaned properly before the rebuild.



Of course the bearings are worn from all this garbage in the oil and the crank is lightly scored. Hopefully the crank can be cleaned up with either an aggressive polishing and/or maybe a 1st size under cut. I need to measure the journals today to see where they are at.





And now let's move on to the truly egregious and incompetent stuff.

Front crank seal bore has witness marks in it from someone threading a fastener into it. Maybe they had no idea how to pull a crank seal?



This case was literally covered in oil. It also tended to leak oil even when it wasn't running. As it sat on a dolly in my garage all winter, I kept wiping up weeping oil from under it. Eventually, I put a carboard box under it to catch the oil.

Now I know why. As far as I can tell there was little, if any sealant between the case halves! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Now keep in mind, someone plastered up the back side of the case with Epoxy / JB Weld type material over the cam plug and the oil galley plugs. After this find, I suspect they were trying to stop the oil leak that was actually coming from between the case halves from not having proper sealant on them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

There were also a number of other hits that the rebuilt was done on the cheap.

1) There were no vibration dampers on the six main bearing through bolts and/or any sealant under the washer heads to help bolt vibration and to help prevent leaks and weeping from these main case bolts. I'm always amused when a shade tree mechanic throws away parts. Surely they weren't serving any purpose and those stupid Germans were just putting extra parts in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

2) Numerous gaskets that looked like they were reused.

3) Lots of screwdriver marks on sealing surfaces where somebody was prying surfaces apart that shouldn't be touched by tools.

None of this appears to be un-fixable but it speaks to the horrors that you can find in an amateur engine rebuild by someone that clearly is just learning.

[bbrock]

Gross! The curse of a great "beginner's engine." I should have you covered on an oil breather. I need to open it up to make sure there are no surprises inside. Should be clean though. I'll PM you later.

[Superhawk996]

By the way,

This engine had at least enough oil pressure to turn off the idiot light. So no guarantee that a used running engine with oil pressure means that the engine is in OK shape.

Brent, if you have a breather that would be stellar! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[Superhawk996]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Can’t catch a break. Both rod and main bearings are 0.010” undersized! Going to be looking for a new crank (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[bbrock]

Brent, if you have a breather that would be stellar! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

I was hoping to have better news for you. Looks like this breather would clean up okay, but it's missing the cover for the PCV. It's yours if you want it, but you know me, I'd want one with all the right bits. I'll try to get out to the storage shed tomorrow. There is a small chance there is another breather of two hiding out there.

[Superhawk996]

Brent, if you have a breather that would be stellar! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

I was hoping to have better news for you. Looks like this breather would clean up okay, but it's missing the cover for the PCV. It's yours if you want it, but you know me, I'd want one with all the right bits. I'll try to get out to the storage shed tomorrow. There is a small chance there is another breather of two hiding out there.

That’s funny because mine doesn’t have a cover either and I can’t find a picture of it nor can I recall from my original car what it looked like.

[bbrock]

I assume this is to prevent oil from splashing into the PCV and gumming the valve. You could probably find a plastic button to snap in and slit the sides to let it breath.

[Superhawk996]

I hate to even ask. What's the 3rd hole for? Maybe slightly different for 1.7L/1.8L?

Given the appearance of the button that would be pretty easy to fabricate out of Delron of something like that.

I just looked of AA and of course the cover button is NLA. I'll have to do some digging I wonder if 914 Rubber has it.

Definitely needs to be some sort of soft plastic given potential for it to drop into the case. Yikes!

[bbrock]

Ha! Never noticed the third hole before. The breather on the right came out of a 1.7L. Don't know if that makes a differences though.

The hole under the PCV is just shy of 1 inch and I'll bet a 1 inch plastic hole plug would fit. Should be able to pick one up at the local auto parts store. Let me know if you want me to pop my extra one in the mail.

[bbrock]

BTW, might not be clear in the pics, but the third hole on the breather is not a hole, just an indent stamp in the metal.

[FourBlades]

Great job on the build!

Really enjoying the thread so far.

Once you get to drive it, it will all be worthwhile.

Mine needed a little work when I got it, can you say flintstone car?



But it all worked out eventually.



John

[Superhawk996]

Great job on the build!

Really enjoying the thread so far.

Once you get to drive it, it will all be worthwhile.

Mine needed a little work when I got it, can you say flintstone car?



But it all worked out eventually.



John

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Inspiration!

So nice to see others that have come back from the brink. I'm right in the middle which is the land of desperation where you start thinking why did I do this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

Only one way to go. Soldier on and finish it.

[FourBlades]

I find it helps not to:

(1) Add up how much longer it will take to be on the road.
(2) How much it has cost so far.
(3) How much more it will cost to finish.

Just tackle the project you have selected for the day and enjoy the satisfaction of crossing another thing off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

John

[Superhawk996]

My stitches are all healed up and I'm looking forward to getting back to doing to what we do around here.



I've been collecting up parts to put my engine back to stock 2.0L form with 94mm pistons and a stock crank and hopefully getting D-jet back on it instead of the carbs that it came with.

I know . . . . . the horror of it . . . . stock! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

Today the mailman was really pissed. Pistons and Cylinders arrived and I think he might have broken a sweat carrying them up to the door. In his defense, they are heavier than a letter. More likely he's mad that he has to keep getting out of the truck with all the regular parts arrivals. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

So happy to have found NOS P&C's with proper dish. You can see the PO simply put VW BUS deep dish pistons in on the last rebuild. 914 compression ratio is pretty low by modern standards. Those deep dish would have lowered it even further. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I'm sure they were cheap though!

@914_7T3
Thanks for facilitating this transaction!



Fed Ex man isn't doing much better because my "new" crank showed up today too! The crank that came out of my engine had already been ground 0.010" on both the journals and the mains so why take a chance with that one. This new one will go to machining for a very light polish and a quick magnaflux check. Initial measurement of the mains and journals shows it to be on the high side of stock tolerance which is AWESOME! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)


@KevinW
Thanks for providing a heat transplant for this engine.



I've also picked up some stainless heat exchangers that will clean up nicely and have now been pressure tested to make sure there are no leaks in the actual heat changer that provides cabin air.

@jwinner
Thanks for making this an easy transaction!



@914Sixer
I'm sorry that you're cleaning out your private stash . . . . well maybe not!

Pedal sled has been rebuilt. I honestly can't even recall who I got the donor from . . . regardless thanks! My original base sled is too heavily rusted to even think about using. This one cleaned up nicely!




So many others have provided parts that would otherwise be an absolute pain in the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) to source off Evil Bay.

I've left off so many others that have sold me parts either recently or in the past months only because I can't immediately recall your user names to provide a shout out. I've not had a single bad transaction which is a huge advantage of this community. I honestly can't imagine how I'd pull this rebuild off without 914World.com

For those that might be on the fence, go ahead and make a donation to this site. Let's keep this afloat and thank SirAndy for doing this!

@SirAndy
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

Thanks to all of you guys!!

[bbrock]

Great progress! Anyone know what the CR on those bus jugs were? Man that's gotta be low. Jeffrey is the man for brokering NOS deals. I need to post up what he did for me when I update my thread.

Keep the postman angry. Stock rocks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Superhawk996]

Great progress! Anyone know what the CR on those bus jugs were? Man that's gotta be low. Jeffrey is the man for brokering NOS deals. I need to post up what he did for me when I update my thread.

Keep the postman angry. Stock rocks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Special thanks to both Brent and Kevin for donating free parts, you guys are awesome. I’m sure I’ll have a few extras floating around after I get this back on the road. I will be sure to pay it forward as you guys have kindly done for me. Cheers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914_7T3]

I've been collecting up parts to put my engine back to stock 2.0L form with 94mm pistons and a stock crank and hopefully getting D-jet back on it instead of the carbs that it came with.

I know . . . . . the horror of it . . . . stock! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

Today the mailman was really pissed. Pistons and Cylinders arrived and I think he might have broken a sweat carrying them up to the door. In his defense, they are heavier than a letter. More likely he's mad that he has to keep getting out of the truck with all the regular parts arrivals. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

So happy to have found NOS P&C's with proper dish. You can see the PO simply put VW BUS deep dish pistons in on the last rebuild. 914 compression ratio is pretty low by modern standards. Those deep dish would have lowered it even further. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I'm sure they were cheap though!

@914_7T3
Thanks for facilitating this transaction!

My pleasure, we stock '73 2.0 guys need to stick together. Even if @bbrock is running a Carb set-up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I will take some time to catch up on your thread!

[Superhawk996]

I did a little more "clean" work yesterday to take a look at my oil pump and sifting though FI parts.

As expected, oil pump is toast. With all that rust in the sump, it clearly has been pumping chunks! Now the real problem starts - trying to find a replacement oil pump.

Unlike when I built my last motor, type 4 pumps are now in short supply. I've reviewed a bunch of the threads on this site, and, I don't really like the options around using a type 1 pump.

Here's the trashed pump. The two issues are heavy scoring of the pump body and the pushing out of the stationary shaft that occurs as a result to having been overheated at some point (remember some damn previous owner pulled thermostat and cooling flaps (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) )



The camshaft I took out of the engine does show witness marks from the shaft contacting the cam gear bolt heads.



This situation has me thinking about ways to rebuild a Type 4 pump. I'm sure it can be done but the problem is time and effort to do so. I'm sort of surprised no one has come up with a CNC aftermarket replacement since there are still a lot of Type 4's running around in 914's and VW busses.

I've resorted to rolling the Evil Bay dice. I bought a pump that looks great on the outside - but it very well could be money down the drain once I open it up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

If it were able to be used, I'll certainly modify it to pin the stationary shaft in place so that well known failure mode can't occur. In reality, I reused my oil pump when I rebuilt my original 73' 1.7L to a 2.0L and that pump went about 100K miles before that vehicle was totaled by a rear-ender. When I tore the engine back down, that oil pump was still solid. Wish I had kept it but it was sold at Hersey decades ago. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

We'll see where this eBay path leads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)


I've also been picking my way though D-Jet parts trying to ensure I have usable components. The injector points need a bit of help. I'll fix these with a bit of new copper braid and some solder.