A few disconnected parts Options

[isdyl]

Hi - so I'm just preparing for my maiden voyage - the car must have been off the road for at least 10 years judging by the rust in the floor when I got it in June. I've changed the fan belt this morning, but there are a few thingsI saw that I think need tidying. Its got a mid mounted progressive weber (yes I know), and there looks to be a port on each side near where the headers meet the tin - should some pipes be connected to these please? Also in one photo showing the port on the passenger side there is a wire coming out of the tin with a female spade connector - you can see it in the photo. There is also a green with red trace wire coming out of the loom near the distributor which isn't connected to anything.
The car runs, but not well. Not sure how far I will get down the road!
Thanks, Dylan

[ClayPerrine]

Those two open ports are cylinder head vents. You need to put hoses on them and run them to some kind of vent can that is much higher up in the engine compartment.

The wire coming out of the tin is the cylinder head temp sensor for the original fuel injection. With a carb, you can ignore it. But I would suggest that you get the original FI parts and put the FI back on the car. It will run much better than the single carb.

The green with a red trace wire is supposed to hook to the oil pressure sender for the idiot light. It is in a hole next to the distributor. If you ground the wire, the oil light should come on.

Hope that helps.

Clay

[isdyl]

Thanks very much!

Those two open ports are cylinder head vents. You need to put hoses on them and run them to some kind of vent can that is much higher up in the engine compartment.

The wire coming out of the tin is the cylinder head temp sensor for the original fuel injection. With a carb, you can ignore it. But I would suggest that you get the original FI parts and put the FI back on the car. It will run much better than the single carb.

The green with a red trace wire is supposed to hook to the oil pressure sender for the idiot light. It is in a hole next to the distributor. If you ground the wire, the oil light should come on.

Hope that helps.

Clay

[mgphoto]

In your first photo it looks like your accelerator cable is wrapped around some wiring, that will cause several problems.

[isdyl]

Yes, it does look a bit of a mess I admit. The accelerator cable isn't actually touching anything though and is attached to a rather inadequate 32/36 central mounted weber carb. I've got it running ok now, but the throttle doesn't snap shut when you take your foot off the pedal. The spring at the carburettor is ok, but I'm struggling to see if there is any kind of return spring at the foot pedal. Theres some rods that go off somewhere - is there a spring down there too please?

In your first photo it looks like your accelerator cable is wrapped around some wiring, that will cause several problems.

[mgphoto]

Yes, it does look a bit of a mess I admit. The accelerator cable isn't actually touching anything though and is attached to a rather inadequate 32/36 central mounted weber carb. I've got it running ok now, but the throttle doesn't snap shut when you take your foot off the pedal. The spring at the carburettor is ok, but I'm struggling to see if there is any kind of return spring at the foot pedal. Theres some rods that go off somewhere - is there a spring down there too please?

In your first photo it looks like your accelerator cable is wrapped around some wiring, that will cause several problems.

No spring at the pedal for the accelerator, I think it is the brake pedal that has the spring.

[isdyl]

Ok thanks - so just the spring at the carb or throttle body pulls the foot pedal back up? I'll beed to get a stronger spring then.

Yes, it does look a bit of a mess I admit. The accelerator cable isn't actually touching anything though and is attached to a rather inadequate 32/36 central mounted weber carb. I've got it running ok now, but the throttle doesn't snap shut when you take your foot off the pedal. The spring at the carburettor is ok, but I'm struggling to see if there is any kind of return spring at the foot pedal. Theres some rods that go off somewhere - is there a spring down there too please?

In your first photo it looks like your accelerator cable is wrapped around some wiring, that will cause several problems.

No spring at the pedal for the accelerator, I think it is the brake pedal that has the spring.

[Rob-O]

With the center mounted carb there is usually a spring from the carb to the tin at the back of the engine. That snaps the throttle plate closed.

I agree with Clay, though. I’d look into sourcing the FI parts and reinstall it. Car runs so much better with FI (and Clay was a huge help getting mine up and running).

[isdyl]

Thanks - I would definitely consider FI but there are a lot of parts missing that I would need and over here in the uk they are few and far between. I’m not sure if it would be L or D-jetronic being a ‘73 but assuming D there’s airbox, throttle body, MPS, ECU, injectors, inlet runners etc etc. There’s no doubt FI would be nicer to have, but it’s a lot of work and expense. At least a pair or Weber 40’s are sold over here for type 4 engines.

With the center mounted carb there is usually a spring from the carb to the tin at the back of the engine. That snaps the throttle plate closed.

I agree with Clay, though. I’d look into sourcing the FI parts and reinstall it. Car runs so much better with FI (and Clay was a huge help getting mine up and running).

[ClayPerrine]

Thanks - I would definitely consider FI but there are a lot of parts missing that I would need and over here in the uk they are few and far between. I’m not sure if it would be L or D-jetronic being a ‘73 but assuming D there’s airbox, throttle body, MPS, ECU, injectors, inlet runners etc etc. There’s no doubt FI would be nicer to have, but it’s a lot of work and expense. At least a pair or Weber 40’s are sold over here for type 4 engines.

With the center mounted carb there is usually a spring from the carb to the tin at the back of the engine. That snaps the throttle plate closed.

I agree with Clay, though. I’d look into sourcing the FI parts and reinstall it. Car runs so much better with FI (and Clay was a huge help getting mine up and running).

How do you get dual Webers passed the MOT??

[isdyl]

They don't check emissions on vehicles this old, but also now there is no MOT test for vehicles over 40 years old in the UK. Or road tax. Insurance costs me £60 a year and that's all that's required.

Thanks - I would definitely consider FI but there are a lot of parts missing that I would need and over here in the uk they are few and far between. I’m not sure if it would be L or D-jetronic being a ‘73 but assuming D there’s airbox, throttle body, MPS, ECU, injectors, inlet runners etc etc. There’s no doubt FI would be nicer to have, but it’s a lot of work and expense. At least a pair or Weber 40’s are sold over here for type 4 engines.

With the center mounted carb there is usually a spring from the carb to the tin at the back of the engine. That snaps the throttle plate closed.

I agree with Clay, though. I’d look into sourcing the FI parts and reinstall it. Car runs so much better with FI (and Clay was a huge help getting mine up and running).

How do you get dual Webers passed the MOT??

[PanelBilly]

You might check that the throttle wire isn’t wrapped around the clutch cable. That would cause it to not move freely

[Spoke]

If you don't want to do FI, then find a set of dual carbs. You can dick around all day with that single carb and it will still run poorly. Going WOT will generally just produce much black smoke and no more power.

I found a set of used dual Weber carbs. They came on a 1.8L engine with SSHE all for $500.

[isdyl]

Thanks, I'll check that.

You might check that the throttle wire isn’t wrapped around the clutch cable. That would cause it to not move freely

[isdyl]

Yes a set of dual Weber carbs would be the more economical solution in the UK, but even a pair of carbs sell for £450 and then there's inlet manifolds, filters and linkage to purchase. Nothing like that is cheap over here. Before I do that I'm going to give the single progressive a chance as it's there and free. I actually picked up another one on eBay for £20 for parts.

If you don't want to do FI, then find a set of dual carbs. You can dick around all day with that single carb and it will still run poorly. Going WOT will generally just produce much black smoke and no more power.

I found a set of used dual Weber carbs. They came on a 1.8L engine with SSHE all for $500.

[mgphoto]

'73 model year, the angle of the spark plug says it's a 1.7, that model is D Jet and the '72 and '72 share the same system, which is the least wanted, meaning the parts are the cheapest!
Biggest problem with the dual Webers is that it wont run any better than the carb that is on it now.
The reason is that it most certainly has the original cam which is Fuel Injected.
The po didn't spend any real money on the induction system hence the crappy carb, and I doubt that the case was split for a cam install.

There looks to be some missing hoses for the crankcase breather, easy fix.

We have access to several great websites with a lot of D-Jet info and I bet you that the greater majority of cars that were brought back to there D-Jet systems are better running cars than their carbbed counterparts.
MY $.02 on this side of the pond.

[isdyl]

Thanks for the info. D-jetronic is good news as I know the system inside out from a couple of early Mercedes r107's I had in the past. Interesting what you say about the cam too - it's something I have heard before. Ok then, I'll start looking out for a FI system and not waste money on any more carbs. I guess I need to start by making a list of everything I need. D

'73 model year, the angle of the spark plug says it's a 1.7, that model is D Jet and the '72 and '72 share the same system, which is the least wanted, meaning the parts are the cheapest!
Biggest problem with the dual Webers is that it wont run any better than the carb that is on it now.
The reason is that it most certainly has the original cam which is Fuel Injected.
The po didn't spend any real money on the induction system hence the crappy carb, and I doubt that the case was split for a cam install.

There looks to be some missing hoses for the crankcase breather, easy fix.

We have access to several great websites with a lot of D-Jet info and I bet you that the greater majority of cars that were brought back to there D-Jet systems are better running cars than their carbbed counterparts.
MY $.02 on this side of the pond.

[isdyl]

Hi - I'm just eventually starting to fit the d-jetronic FI which Clay kindly sent me onto my 1.7 '73 car. I've stripped off the single webber and am just taking it slowly, and buying bits as I need them. I am currently swapping out the distributor to the FI one with the trigger points, and I just wondered if it mattered which way round the body goes please? It only seems to fit in a few positions due to the vacuum canister on the side, and obviously I will need to rotate it to set the timing, but do the trigger points fire all the cylinders each quarter turn please? I seem to remember from a V8 mercedes I had once that the injectors fired in pairs.
Thanks, Dylan

[Spoke]

Hi - I'm just eventually starting to fit the d-jetronic FI which Clay kindly sent me onto my 1.7 '73 car. I've stripped off the single webber and am just taking it slowly, and buying bits as I need them. I am currently swapping out the distributor to the FI one with the trigger points, and I just wondered if it mattered which way round the body goes please? It only seems to fit in a few positions due to the vacuum canister on the side, and obviously I will need to rotate it to set the timing, but do the trigger points fire all the cylinders each quarter turn please? I seem to remember from a V8 mercedes I had once that the injectors fired in pairs.
Thanks, Dylan

The trigger points fire 2 injectors at a time.

Yes, the distributor only fits one way. Here's a picture of my engine showing the distributor mounting.

[isdyl]

Thanks - that's a great photo to help me get everything in the right place. Brilliant.