Another timing mark, Question sorry |
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Another timing mark, Question sorry |
shane |
Aug 6 2019, 09:19 PM
Post
#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 355 Joined: 12-February 13 Member No.: 15,518 Region Association: None |
Trying to start my previously running engine after putting new seals everywhere and reinstalling it and my distributor. My distributor only goes in one way and clamps to the mounting bracket so it never moved it’s original position. So I put it in and just pulled #1 plug and watched it go to TDC on compression stroke. The rotor is pointing pretty closely to the contact on the distributor tower I have the #1 plug wire on. And have the wires on the cap CW 1-4-3-2. But can’t see the O at TDC Only this red notch and mark that was there when I bought the car. Now I’m even more confused because the pictures I’ve been looking at the red mark 27° mark doesn’t match the location it is on my fan. The red mark/notch in the pictures is next to a wide support fin, and mine isn’t. Any thoughts would be appreciated very much. It’s a 74 1.8 when I try to start it up it sputters and totally acts way out of time popping out of the carb a bit.
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Mblizzard |
Aug 7 2019, 07:36 AM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
Attached is a template that lists the timing marks.
914_timing.pdf ( 14.07k ) Number of downloads: 148 Attached below is a 2.0 impeller. It is possible to put the dizzy in 180 degrees out The way to verify if you are on TDC of the firing stroke of the #1 cylinder - pop the valve cover off the #1 side and both rockers should be loose. If not, spin the engine 360 and check again. Attached image(s) |
shane |
Aug 7 2019, 12:30 PM
Post
#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 355 Joined: 12-February 13 Member No.: 15,518 Region Association: None |
Trying to start my previously running engine after putting new seals everywhere and reinstalling it and my distributor. My distributor only goes in one way and clamps to the mounting bracket so it never moved it’s original position. So I put it in and just pulled #1 plug and watched it go to TDC on compression stroke. The rotor is pointing pretty closely to the contact on the distributor tower I have the #1 plug wire on. And have the wires on the cap CW 1-4-3-2. But can’t see the O at TDC Only this red notch and mark that was there when I bought the car. Now I’m even more confused because the pictures I’ve been looking at the red mark 27° mark doesn’t match the location it is on my fan. The red mark/notch in the pictures is next to a wide support fin, and mine isn’t. Any thoughts would be appreciated very much. It’s a 74 1.8 when I try to start it up it sputters and totally acts way out of time popping out of the carb a bit. Has anyone seen a red 27° mark in this location before? It’s no ware near the wide support fin? |
Mblizzard |
Aug 7 2019, 12:49 PM
Post
#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
Trying to start my previously running engine after putting new seals everywhere and reinstalling it and my distributor. My distributor only goes in one way and clamps to the mounting bracket so it never moved it’s original position. So I put it in and just pulled #1 plug and watched it go to TDC on compression stroke. The rotor is pointing pretty closely to the contact on the distributor tower I have the #1 plug wire on. And have the wires on the cap CW 1-4-3-2. But can’t see the O at TDC Only this red notch and mark that was there when I bought the car. Now I’m even more confused because the pictures I’ve been looking at the red mark 27° mark doesn’t match the location it is on my fan. The red mark/notch in the pictures is next to a wide support fin, and mine isn’t. Any thoughts would be appreciated very much. It’s a 74 1.8 when I try to start it up it sputters and totally acts way out of time popping out of the carb a bit. Has anyone seen a red 27° mark in this location before? It’s no ware near the wide support fin? I would suggest you verify the markings on the impeller using the fin counting method in the 2nd photo above. I think it will indicate that you are looking at fin #7 not #10. |
johnhora |
Aug 7 2019, 01:00 PM
Post
#5
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 873 Joined: 7-January 03 From: Derby City KY Member No.: 107 Region Association: None |
shane...
on the 1.8 fan there is a red mark at 7.5 BTDC |
shane |
Aug 7 2019, 02:08 PM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 355 Joined: 12-February 13 Member No.: 15,518 Region Association: None |
I see thanks everyone (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) the red threw me off, was thinking usually red is the 27° black 7.5° white TDC.
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porschetub |
Aug 7 2019, 02:39 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,729 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
Attached is a template that lists the timing marks. 914_timing.pdf ( 14.07k ) Number of downloads: 148 Attached below is a 2.0 impeller. It is possible to put the dizzy in 180 degrees out The way to verify if you are on TDC of the firing stroke of the #1 cylinder - pop the valve cover off the #1 side and both rockers should be loose. If not, spin the engine 360 and check again. The fan I'am using is a bus one as its all I have with my current build,they or most have the "0" marked and nothing else,Haynes manual states measuring 52.5mm and you get 27 degrees but that is for a FI motor,I will most likely mark to get 30 degrees as running carbs. Cheers for that info Mike. |
shane |
Aug 7 2019, 03:04 PM
Post
#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 355 Joined: 12-February 13 Member No.: 15,518 Region Association: None |
Dang that red fan looks good!!! I’m kicking myself for Not powder coating mine when I had the engine out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)
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Mblizzard |
Aug 7 2019, 03:15 PM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
Dang that red fan looks good!!! I’m kicking myself for Not powder coating mine when I had the engine out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) Makes the marks really easy to see as well! |
Mblizzard |
Aug 7 2019, 07:48 PM
Post
#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,033 Joined: 28-January 13 From: Knoxville Tn Member No.: 15,438 Region Association: South East States |
Attached is a template that lists the timing marks. 914_timing.pdf ( 14.07k ) Number of downloads: 148 Attached below is a 2.0 impeller. It is possible to put the dizzy in 180 degrees out The way to verify if you are on TDC of the firing stroke of the #1 cylinder - pop the valve cover off the #1 side and both rockers should be loose. If not, spin the engine 360 and check again. The fan I'am using is a bus one as its all I have with my current build,they or most have the "0" marked and nothing else,Haynes manual states measuring 52.5mm and you get 27 degrees but that is for a FI motor,I will most likely mark to get 30 degrees as running carbs. Cheers for that info Mike. To be clear I wish al, of what I posted was my brain. But the info was posted by a number of 914 people much smarter than me. I just happened to download that info. While I am remiss at not giving appropriate credit to those that came up with the info. It is al! Part of this great community. |
shane |
Aug 7 2019, 10:33 PM
Post
#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 355 Joined: 12-February 13 Member No.: 15,518 Region Association: None |
Attached is a template that lists the timing marks. 914_timing.pdf ( 14.07k ) Number of downloads: 148 Attached below is a 2.0 impeller. It is possible to put the dizzy in 180 degrees out The way to verify if you are on TDC of the firing stroke of the #1 cylinder - pop the valve cover off the #1 side and both rockers should be loose. If not, spin the engine 360 and check again. The fan I'am using is a bus one as its all I have with my current build,they or most have the "0" marked and nothing else,Haynes manual states measuring 52.5mm and you get 27 degrees but that is for a FI motor,I will most likely mark to get 30 degrees as running carbs. Cheers for that info Mike. To be clear I wish al, of what I posted was my brain. But the info was posted by a number of 914 people much smarter than me. I just happened to download that info. While I am remiss at not giving appropriate credit to those that came up with the info. It is al! Part of this great community. Well said (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Spoke |
Jul 31 2024, 05:06 PM
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#12
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 7,084 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
I am checking the timing of my 2056 carbed T4. At 2500 RPM, the 27 BTDC is right in the window.
I saw this comment in a previous post: I will most likely mark to get 30 degrees as running carbs. Am I ok at 27 BTDC or time it to 30? |
Spoke |
Jul 31 2024, 05:12 PM
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#13
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 7,084 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
This article on Pelican says to do 35 BTDC.
Timing w/Carbs Unlike in the article, my distributor doesn't have vacuum. |
Dave_Darling |
Jul 31 2024, 05:47 PM
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#14
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 15,059 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
That article on Pelican is a guess. As is any timing recommendation for a motor that isn't in its original configuration.
The best way to determine the correct timing is by running the car on a dyno and seeing what timing changes do for power, torque, and temperatures. --DD |
914werke |
Aug 1 2024, 11:18 AM
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#15
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,934 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
That article on Pelican is a guess. As is any timing recommendation for a motor that isn't in its original configuration. The best way to determine the correct timing is by running the car on a dyno and seeing what timing changes do for power, torque, and temperatures. --DD 100% |
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