Suspension adjustments?, What the!!!! Options

[Gearren]

I just finished replacing all the suspension bushings, ball joints, installed Bilstein shocks, 140 lb springs and turbo tie rods...What a job! I'm getting it ready to take it to the alignment shop. I have 2 questions/concerns.

If I set the front axle ride height at the Haynes spec, it seems like the body of the car is way up off the wheels, higher than the rear ride height. I elected to set it at 6 3/4" at the center of the torsion bar cap, which gives me a 3/8 difference between the front and rear ride heights. Is this OK? Am I missing some sophisticated geometry concern by setting the front height this way?

Second question involves the right vs left rear height. I set both struts the same, with the height clip in the fourth ring from the bottom, but the right rear sits 1/4" lower than the right. In order to correct this left/right imbalance, should I set one strut clip higher or lower than the other? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)

[nebreitling]

QUOTE

I just finished replacing all the suspension bushings, ball joints, installed Bilstein shocks, 140 lb springs and turbo tie rods...What a job! I'm getting it ready to take it to the alignment shop. I have 2 questions/concerns.

unless you have a trailer, be sure to give it a 'rough' alignment just to get it to the shop. or spend a few hours doing your own 'home' alignment, it's surprisingly easy.

QUOTE

If I set the front axle ride height at the Haynes spec, it seems like the body of the car is way up off the wheels, higher than the rear ride height. I elected to set it at 6 3/4" at the center of the torsion bar cap, which gives me a 3/8 difference between the front and rear ride heights. Is this OK? Am I missing some sophisticated geometry concern by setting the front height this way?

take that page of the haynes and rip it out. lower the sucker. just make sure that your A-arms/tie-rods are no lower than parallel to the ground, else you are going to have some gnarly bump-steer. but you should definitely set the car up with a bit of rake, ie the front slightly lower then the back.

QUOTE

Second question involves the right vs left rear height. I set both struts the same, with the height clip in the fourth ring from the bottom, but the right rear sits 1/4" lower than the right. In order to correct this left/right imbalance, should I set one strut clip higher or lower than the other?

that's a little odd. make sure that the front end is even right-to-left. raising one corner affects the other three, so getting the car level can be a bit of trial and error. also check to see that your springs are seated correctly. but i wouldn't set the shock clips differently (unless i was running oval race tracks, lol)

[Gearren]

Thanks for the info! Been crawling under and around the car trying to get the alignment roughed in, but the Haynes "specs" seemed almost impossible to achieve and still have a car that looks good on the road. Definitely need some rake to the ride!


I might have to adjust the rear camber, but won't know how much (if at all) until I get it to the alignment shop. Maybe rear shims (if needed) will level up the rear.

[Joe Ricard]

Personally I have mt car set at 4" @ all front donuts. saying a slight rake to the front is great for street applications.

I found the tail to be very loose ON MY CAR. After playing with shocks and tiar air pressure @ the last AX event I ran out of adjustment. So next was go back to the starting point with the shocks and take 1 turn out of the rear springs. Love them coil overs. I transfered enough wieght to make the car virtually nuetral.
That 1/4 inch difference side to side may equal out when you sit in it. Also this is a static setting. the car will settle in after about 20 wonderful miles of top off driving. Might take longer if you have a hot chick in the car. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mueba.gif)

You will have to adjust the front to get balanced traction.
OK that's my .914 cents worth

OH yea, if you take it to a shop make sure the car is at ride hieght. because as the suspension moves up and down to calibrate the machine the car won't be at ride hieght (settled). then once you drive around town with the hot chick the settings will change to the final resting place.

[rhodyguy]

to equalize the dif in in the rear, side to side, you adjust the oposite front torsion bar. right-o on trying to keep the tierods parallel to the horizon. with lowering the front end you will prob need rack spacers (bump steer kit) to help with the horizon concept. get the correct kit. available at most of the usual suspects. when you get an alignment, the shop should ask you what your plans are for the car. a-x, aggressive street, or hiway cruiser. get the correct setup for what you plan to do. one for an a-x may not be the most pleasant for a car you plan to drive 3000 miles in a week.

k