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> Rebuiding Inside-out
bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:25 PM
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And then attach the new supply plastic tubing to the metal tubing ends.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:26 PM
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I first tried warning the end of the plastic tubing to push onto the barbed fitting.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:27 PM
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But, the tubing got too warm and buckled when I tried to push it onto the cold barbed fitting.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:28 PM
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So for the second try, I warmed the metal barbs and then pushed the plastic tubing on. Much easier.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:29 PM
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I lubed the grommets with brake fluid.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:32 PM
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And then eased (and pushed) the flanged ends into the grommets.

My logic here is to install the MC by feeding the supply lines up through the floor. I still plan to "bench bleed" the MC in place, with some long return tubing on temporary output fittings. We will see how that works.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:35 PM
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MC mounted, with the supply lines up through the floor.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:36 PM
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I think I need new angled grommets for the supply lines.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:38 PM
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Also, a new boot for the warning switch. I decided to use the old switch with two contacts, so I would not have to fuss with making sure the MC body is effectively grounded.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:41 PM
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Before mounting the banjo fitting for the front lines, I need new crush washers.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:48 PM
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Meanwhile, I put my visiting son to work again, first on the engine relay board. I had removed the cracked and failing tar-like material on the underside, and wanted to replace this with more modern potting material. This is a two-part flexible potty compound.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:53 PM
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The obvious thing is to pour this into the inverted relay board. But a few holes, for the cable retaining clips and the 3-prong socket, would let the compound leak through.

So I decided to try wax to create temporary filling for these holes. This furniture wax seems like the purest material that can be dissolved later with solvent. Yes, we did test this.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:54 PM
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Here's the wax, forced into the holes from the top side.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:55 PM
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And from below (sorry for the fuzzy photo).


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:55 PM
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Finally, we leveled the relay board.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:56 PM
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Then mixed the potting compound and poured in about 75 ml.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:58 PM
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For about 15 minutes, we popped some air bubbles. The compound was fairly thin for at least 1 hour.


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bkrantz
post Dec 26 2020, 08:59 PM
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Now just wait 24 to 48 hours for full cure.


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djway
post Dec 26 2020, 11:29 PM
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QUOTE(bkrantz @ Dec 26 2020, 06:23 PM) *

And then re-install the new rubber grommets (old on the left, new on the right).

On my Notchback I am using the 19mm MC. Grommets started leaking before it ever was driven so I ordered some ATE grommets. They were much beafier, larger diameter and the leading edge is rounded to ease with smooth installation.
Dry as can be now.
Fill your system as soon as possible and look for weeping. Easier to fix early on.
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bbrock
post Dec 27 2020, 11:29 PM
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QUOTE(djway @ Dec 26 2020, 10:29 PM) *

QUOTE(bkrantz @ Dec 26 2020, 06:23 PM) *

And then re-install the new rubber grommets (old on the left, new on the right).

On my Notchback I am using the 19mm MC. Grommets started leaking before it ever was driven so I ordered some ATE grommets. They were much beafier, larger diameter and the leading edge is rounded to ease with smooth installation.
Dry as can be now.
Fill your system as soon as possible and look for weeping. Easier to fix early on.


This is good to know. I had the same experience with the grommets weeping and have had replacing them on my to-do list. New grommets are on the way from Porsche now so hoping they work better.
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