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> Rebuiding Inside-out
bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:16 PM
Post #2621


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Meanwhile, I got out the windshield washer plumbing.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:17 PM
Post #2622


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To install the squirters, the check valves have to come off.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:19 PM
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Then the squirters get inserted, and wiggled about to seat the rubber flange.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:19 PM
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From below. I had to wiggle this one a bit more. Note this also has the check valve re-installed.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:22 PM
Post #2625


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I then ran the tubing, mostly following the wiring harness behind the air box. Hidden under the vent hose is the T-fitting that supplies the right side squirter.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:24 PM
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Plumbing under the reservoir.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:25 PM
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And with the reservoir removed.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:26 PM
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Now for the reservoir cap. Of course, this was originally set up to feed air pressure from the spare tire. Now I need it to vent to the atmosphere, but not allow fluid to slosh out.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:28 PM
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Nothing to lose, so I cut the valve in half.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:29 PM
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That reveals the internal valve--that I don't need.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:34 PM
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Here's the top. Both the barbed fitting and the open hole pass air.


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bkrantz
post Apr 24 2021, 08:37 PM
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For now, I am not sure, but I think I will plug the hole and route a bit of tubing from the barbed fitting to prevent any fluid coming out, especially under braking.


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bbrock
post Apr 25 2021, 09:35 AM
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What about installing one of these in that vent tubing? https://www.amazon.com/1-4-Barbed-Check-Valve/dp/B01EMCPG2I
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com-20845-1619364933.1.jpg)

You could even use black rubber tubing and route it to look like stock if you are CW like me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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euro911
post Apr 25 2021, 12:27 PM
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That's what I was thinking, but I wonder how much vacuum pressure in the tank will allow it to open? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Maybe tying a loop in the vent tubing would work better - less resistance (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
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DRPHIL914
post Apr 25 2021, 01:19 PM
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i am getting ready to do the exact same thing. nice detailed pics. i had not thought about cutting the valve body open. i ordered a 911 bottle supply so i could use the top opening for both vent and supply, and just cap off the bottom supply feed . but now i am rethinking that as the top cap for a 911 bottle used a slightly different size and threading



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bkrantz
post Apr 25 2021, 08:04 PM
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Well, it probably had to happen, but I found a body issue that I forgot to address before getting the paint work done.

When I re-installed the right front fender, I made sure the seam between the fender and the cowl was open at the bottom so that water that gets under the seal can drain out. I meant to do the same thing on the left side but forgot. When I was thinking about installing the seal today, I remembered.

I inspected the bottom of the left seam and found some light rust. So that launched a recovery project.


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bkrantz
post Apr 25 2021, 08:05 PM
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Right now, any water would be trapped, and will add to the visible rust.


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bkrantz
post Apr 25 2021, 08:07 PM
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I removed the original seam sealer on the bottom side, and used some mini tools to scrape open the seam from the top.


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bkrantz
post Apr 25 2021, 08:08 PM
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Eventually I got most of the seam open. Here's light showing from below.


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bkrantz
post Apr 25 2021, 08:10 PM
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I got out the Ospho and a syringe.


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