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> Rebuiding Inside-out
bkrantz
post Feb 16 2022, 08:53 PM
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I trimmed about 1/4 inch from each insert tube.


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bkrantz
post Feb 16 2022, 08:54 PM
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And also about 1/4 inch from the rubber.


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bkrantz
post Feb 16 2022, 08:54 PM
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Skinny dog bone ready for installation.


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bkrantz
post Feb 16 2022, 08:56 PM
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With the bumper back on, the rubber now sits tight to the bodywork, and the gap along the chrome is better.


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bkrantz
post Feb 16 2022, 08:58 PM
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While fiddling with mine stuff, I also did not like the tight clearance between the tail pipe and valance. I can wiggle the engine and exhaust and make slight contact.


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bkrantz
post Feb 16 2022, 09:00 PM
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I removed the muffler bracket and lengthened the holes about 1/8 inch.


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bkrantz
post Feb 16 2022, 09:01 PM
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That's enough to lower the muffler and tail pipe--no more contact.


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bkrantz
post Feb 16 2022, 09:02 PM
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Almost cleared the list on the right side of the board.


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:20 PM
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I finally remembered to check to see if I cured the flashing brake system warning. I turned the key on and...no. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:23 PM
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When I installed the replacement 19 mm master cylinder, I included the original 2-lead switch. I think (???) I tested this before putting it in, but now the switch is stuck "on", and connects the leads and grounds the circuit. Of course, this type of switch has no external reset button.

So now I have to replace the switch and bleed the brake system again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:26 PM
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I dug out the switch that cam with the new MC, but this one seems to have the opposite problem: no matter the position of the plunger, the switch does not ground the single lead. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:29 PM
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Enough of that. Let's get back to starting the engine and EFI tune. Step 1 is to calibrate the engine advance relative to the EFI setting.


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:33 PM
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With the engine at fast idle, and the EFI set to constant 10° advance, here's what I measured at the blower fan pulley: 22°.

To adjust that, the TunerStudio software has an adjustment (Tooth Angle). A bit of trial and error, and...


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:33 PM
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Success. The EFI and engine are both at 10° advance.


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:36 PM
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Readings with a rough fast idle. The advance is set back to an initial table so it can vary with rpm. And the "coolant" temp (actually the cylinder head temp, with a new sensor on the right head in the stock location.


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:39 PM
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For an initial idle speed setting, I got out my new EMPI synchronizer.


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:41 PM
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I backed out the idle screw on the right intake to get the rpm down and airflow to 8.


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:41 PM
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And did the same on the left.


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:43 PM
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By this time, the "coolant" was pegging the default software setting--I need to change this.


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bkrantz
post Feb 18 2022, 08:44 PM
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But the stock oil temp gauge still has not risen.


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