Rebuiding Inside-out Options

[DRPHIL914]

That's 100% of the engine bay again.

is that battery a AMG? what is the spec ? did you buy that locally?


Phil

[bkrantz]

Some other good news: I like my new oil pressure gauge. This is at about 1500 RPM. At idle when hot I saw about 10 psi. When running at speed I think it was about 40.

i have wondered, if i should get a oil pressure gauge for my new motor, and if i did , what does that require wiring wise and as far as pressure sensor does a new pressure sensor get mounted to the same spot the current one is for the dummy light?

Phil

I ran a new wire from the engine to the center console, through the rubber snorkel and into the tunnel.

The simplest way is to replace the stock sensor with a new VDO unit. They sell sensors just for new VDO gauges, but then you give up the idiot light. VDO also makes dual circuit sensors, with an idiot light sender, but this triggers the light at a lower pressure than stock. I decided to use a T-fitting so I could keep the stock idiot light sender and mount the new VDO sender. See my build thread for more details.

[bkrantz]

That's 100% of the engine bay again.

is that battery a AMG? what is the spec ? did you buy that locally?


Phil

Yes, AGM. I bought it from Amazon, after several positive recommendations. Happy with it so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7WIKJ...=UTF8&psc=1

[bkrantz]

Took a fun drive to our local C&C today, with one of the best turn-outs ever, at least 70 cars. Oldest was a 1929 Ford Model A pickup. We had just about every variation of car and truck categories, plus a couple of bikes.

Here's my car with Mike's (second from left) 914-6.

[bkrantz]

And a 914-Subaru, with Subaru drive train. Note the passing Durango historic steam train, on the way to Silverton.

[bkrantz]

I looked under my 914, parked since I drove it home from C&C on Saturday.

Oil drips from near the front of the engine.

Fudging you know what!

[DRPHIL914]

I looked under my 914, parked since I drove it home from C&C on Saturday.

Oil drips from near the front of the engine.

Fudging you know what!

i feel your pain lol! is that from the oil filter area?

Phil

[Puebloswatcop]

I looked under my 914, parked since I drove it home from C&C on Saturday.

Oil drips from near the front of the engine.

Fudging you know what!

Sorry about the leak. I know you've put a ton work into it.....

[ClayPerrine]

IF it doesn't leak oil, it doesn't have any in it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[bkrantz]

I looked under my 914, parked since I drove it home from C&C on Saturday.

Oil drips from near the front of the engine.

Fudging you know what!

i feel your pain lol! is that from the oil filter area?

Phil

Seems more like center to left side. I am too frustrated to explore more right now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[bkrantz]

IF it doesn't leak oil, it doesn't have any in it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Maybe that's the way. Drain the oil out and no more leaks!

[930cabman]

IF it doesn't leak oil, it doesn't have any in it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Maybe that's the way. Drain the oil out and no more leaks!

Myself (and probably many others) are in the same boat. When I get around to it I will get her up on the lift and run her for awhile. Over the winter I changed out one of the threaded plugs, but now I am thinking oil pump cover gasket. Other than that how are the other systems? btw: great restoration and great documentation

[Puebloswatcop]

Hi Bob, have you though of using leak detection dye? There are several sources to purchase it from. Maybe available from you local flaps. It is a UV oil addative that will then show up where the leak is coming from...I would suggest adding it and then run the car. Dont drive it , just run it, otherwise any oil that has the dye in it will be everywhere.

Of course you will need a UV light source, maybe a black light....Not real sure.

[bkrantz]

Hi Bob, have you though of using leak detection dye? There are several sources to purchase it from. Maybe available from you local flaps. It is a UV oil addative that will then show up where the leak is coming from...I would suggest adding it and then run the car. Dont drive it , just run it, otherwise any oil that has the dye in it will be everywhere.

Of course you will need a UV light source, maybe a black light....Not real sure.

Good suggestion, Kevin. Looking up info now.

[bkrantz]

AWOL for almost a month! But with good excuses, like attending my son's PhD graduation, helping him move to start his first job, helping my daughter and her family move, teaching a week of geology field camp for college seniors, and then flying to Iowa to pick up my new F-150 that I ordered last year.

[bkrantz]

Now I need to get pack to working on my 914. To start, I wanted to get back on braking issues, both effectiveness and pulling to the right.

The master cylinder brace definitely helps.

I went out for a brake bedding session. That meant multiple stops from over 50 mph down to 20 mph. After a few, the brakes felt stronger and did not pull (much). I measured temps of the front disks and calipers, and the right side was higher but only by 5 to 10°. I kept repeating the stops until the brakes started to fade.

After driving 20 minutes to cool things down, I tried some hard braking. The car stopped straight and strong.

But today I tried again. Once warmed up, the brakes felt strong and stopped straight. But after a few more stops, I felt a pull to the right again. This is mostly after the car decelerates to below 10 to 15 mph.

I will try again tomorrow, but would appreciate any ideas.

[Puebloswatcop]

Now I need to get pack to working on my 914. To start, I wanted to get back on braking issues, both effectiveness and pulling to the right.

The master cylinder brace definitely helps.

I went out for a brake bedding session. That meant multiple stops from over 50 mph down to 20 mph. After a few, the brakes felt stronger and did not pull (much). I measured temps of the front disks and calipers, and the right side was higher but only by 5 to 10°. I kept repeating the stops until the brakes started to fade.

After driving 20 minutes to cool things down, I tried some hard braking. The car stopped straight and strong.

But today I tried again. Once warmed up, the brakes felt strong and stopped straight. But after a few more stops, I felt a pull to the right again. This is mostly after the car decelerates to below 10 to 15 mph.

I will try again tomorrow, but would appreciate any ideas.

Hi Bob,

When you are doing your brake stop testing, is it in a level place or on a roadway? Colorado tends to add extra crowning to its roads, in order to allow for drainage to prevent ice. That extra crown could acount for the pull at low speed. You might try a good large level parking lot, or do like I used to do, wait till there is no traffic and do it stradling the yellow line.....hehehe

[bkrantz]

Thanks for the reminder--and the tip. I did another session of brake pad bedding and testing today. After a little warmup, the first couple of hard stops were very straight. A few more and I felt just a slight pull to the right. I drove for a while to cool things down, and went through another 7 or 8 stops, and all felt straight. Maybe the problem is cured? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I hope crossing it off the list will not jinx me.

[bkrantz]

In any case, I put the car back on stands so I can check brake action and clearance.

[bkrantz]

And I need to start looking for the oil leak source--again. Here is what dropped on the floor after driving for about 45 minutes today.