MaxJax Black Friday promo?, Looking for a deal. Post up car related BF deals here. Options

[VaccaRabite]

I want a MacJax lift for my garage. I want to buy it Friday/Monday.

Who has seen deals for it?

If you have seen other killer deals for BF/CM post them up here.

Zach

[914forme]

https://www.asedeals.com/store/dannmar-port...ar-lift-maxjax/

https://www.maxjaxusa.com/buy-purchase-maxj...rd-package.html

Both are the same price, and not special, I have not seen anything else. Hopefully something comes up for you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[Mikey914]

I like the idea of putting a lift in. But I can see the specifications for the anchor loads, and I'm wondering if the typical garage floor meets the spec. Looks like they are using 1/2" anchors.

Who has put one in so far, and what was your experience?

[mepstein]

I think Ben got his for around $1600 on a Home Depot special. I wouldn’t get under a Suburban on one of these but our cars are light.
Yes, you do have to be careful about floor thickness. You can’t assume the home builder built to spec.
@MB911

[mb911]

I bought mine on a flash sale from danmar/maxjax for 1500.. 3000psi concrete is what I believe they are asking for. I have 6 inches of concrete and I believe I drilled 7/8" holes in the concrete for this.. I have had all kinds of lifts before. So far this is the most usable ones I have had.. Two thumbs up.. Works really well

[VaccaRabite]

I have 8 inch thick floor on one side, and 4 inch thick on the other. I’m good on flooring.

Zach

[mb911]

I have 8 inch thick floor on one side, and 4 inch thick on the other. I’m good on flooring.

Zach

You will be fine. I built a tripod stand for a safety for the side I am under..

[iankarr]

be careful...thickness of the slab is only one factor. Strength of the concrete is another.

[Mikey914]

Yes adding a plate for support would help spread the load.
Tempting

[mb911]

We used 3000 psi concrete when pooring the shop floor so I know I am good.

[A&P Mech]

I really like mine. It makes dropping an engine out of the 914 a breeze. I would recommend verifying your concrete floor thickness before ordering one. The floor in my garage was poured to thin, so I had a section cut out and repoured 8" thick. I really like how easy it is to setup and take back down. It only takes about 10 minutes and it doesn't take up a ton of space.

It is to bad you live so far away. I am going to be selling mine. I am moving to Missouri where I am building a 50'x60' shop. I plan on purchasing a full size two post lift and will no longer need my MaxJax

[A&P Mech]

Here is a picture of my car with the lift at the upper lock postion. I believe it is 4 foot?

[Lucky9146]

I like the idea of putting a lift in. But I can see the specifications for the anchor loads, and I'm wondering if the typical garage floor meets the spec. Looks like they are using 1/2" anchors.

Who has put one in so far, and what was your experience?

I did, I love it, and made my more permanent. I added structural steel to the ceiling as my 33 year old garage floor was not something I was tilling to trust with those 5 anchors.

Intended to be portable I came to learn that set up was crucial. Originally I thought I would install it on my side drive, just leaving the anchors in place, and putting the posts up when needed, but reading the instructions they want pretty much nats-ass alignment with all kinds of warnings. So I shelved it until I decided on the permanent install. I chose the single car side of my 3 car garage and although tight, it has worked out very very well. I can honestly say it has been a very useful addition and I use it all the time, because I can!

Up in the air



Because I wanted to mount it next to the stem wall, I also added wall attachment on that side as the cement pour for the slab was not done with the stem wall.



I created an "T" beam sorta out of 2" angle iron welded back to back and then tied those into the ceiling joist. Sorry about the blurry pic.



I also took the pump and tank and mounted it to the wall and ditched the cart.

With marks on the floor for car placement I can have my 914 up in the air in minutes.

Because the posts end up right where the door opens, I just back the car in a little further, get out and roll the car forward into position. Also, all these pics were from the install, I now back in all the time, which in my situation makes the getting in and out much easier. I have had my 911 on the lift as well. Love it!

Hope this helps for those considering.

[914four]

If you have seen other killer deals for BF/CM post them up here.

Found a deal on the M6 MaxJax website for $2,099 this morning but looks like it is back up to $2,349 now.

[mb911]

If you have seen other killer deals for BF/CM post them up here.

Found a deal on the M6 MaxJax website for $2,099 this morning but looks like it is back up to $2,349 now.

Wow keep looking and the price will go down or clear your cookies and try again.. There is an algorithm that keeps lowering the price based off of your search history

[914forme]

This is the last price I got MaxJack

[VaccaRabite]

Pulled the trigger a few minutes ago at 1749 ($18xx was added for lift gate service but shipping was otherwise free.)

Zach

[914four]

Checking to see if anyone has received their Black Friday MaxJax order. I placed an order for the M-6 and was told it would ship the following Friday, then it was pushed out to the end of the month and now it's pushed out to mid-January.

Anyone else have their Black Friday purchase back-ordered?

Kelvin

[VaccaRabite]

Nope. Don’t have mine yet.

I talked with them on the 24th. There is a part back ordered and they need to get it in before the units can ship.

I’ve done a little digging and this company has a lot of positive review on car forums. So I’m taking them at their word so far.

Zach

[76-914]

1) Depth of concrete is a no brainer. Drill a hole then measure thickness.

2) I recommend you have 2 hammer drills. One smaller one with a 1/4" x 6" bit and a 30#-40# hammer drill for the actual hole size needed. Lay out where you want it to sit and mark the holes. Now take the small hammer drill with a 1/4" bit and drill center of each hole. If it stops penetrating pull the bit out and check for grey dust. If you see grey dust you're on rebar or post tension steel. Drill all 8 holes then determine where and how many spots have steel beneath them. If none, Bingo. But more than likely you will hit at least one piece of steel and then you will need to shift the location of the holes an amount that will get you in the clear. Before shifting the hole locations only to find out that you've ended up upon another piece of steel do this. Using one of the 1/4" holes as a starting point drill another hole at a slight angle. If it clears then you know where the steel is and isn't thus preventing a Swiss cheese effect in your slab. If it turns out that you can't relocate w/o being on top of a piece of steel then you can have one or 2 anchors installed on a slight angle. You will need no make a washer that is beveled so that you can tighten the bolt w/o having the edges of the bolt head strike the plate preventing you from tightening the anchor completely.

3) They ship 8 anchors and no spares so take your time. Those anchors aren't going to be at your local hardware store and they're pricey to boot. If any of the local boys want to install one feel free to borrow my big hammer drill. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)