Tube Chassis Subaru Engine build, Lots of new progress Options

[tazz9924]

@andrewb Yeah thats the 2 inch piece ive been dreading. its too short to fit in my knotcher in a normal way that isn’t dangerous. Ill fix it this weekend because its been bugging me too

[tygaboy]

What about doing a taco plate in lieu of that 2" piece? Size it so you could add them all around that node set for extra strength and some style points?

I get that may not be as strong as adding the tube. Just throwing the idea out there - and you can feel free to throw it out , too!

Keep up the great work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[andrewb]

That's a relief Elliott - knew you wouldn't let us down.

What about doing a taco plate in lieu of that 2" piece?

Something's obviously got lost in the transatlantic translation - I don't even know what a taco plate is. I tried Google but now I just feel hungry. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[tygaboy]

Ha! Good one. Taco plate = sheet wrapped 180 that ends up looking like a taco shell.

[tazz9924]

Ha! Good one. Taco plate = sheet wrapped 180 that ends up looking like a taco shell.

ive got some taco plans, and taco plate plans as well. Im thinking on top of the harness bar, do people put bars inside taco plates? I kinda just wanna throw the sheet metal on there for style points

[tygaboy]

Ha! Good one. Taco plate = sheet wrapped 180 that ends up looking like a taco shell.

ive got some taco plans, and taco plate plans as well. Im thinking on top of the harness bar, do people put bars inside taco plates? I kinda just wanna throw the sheet metal on there for style points

While it couldn't hurt, remember, a typical taco plate would have an OD (at the base of the taco) = the OD of the tubing you're using. So strictly speaking, if you had a tube there, the taco would need to have an ID = tube OD and would be 1 material thickness greater than the rest of the tubes - unless you went with a smaller OD tube under it.

[tazz9924]

That's a relief Elliott - knew you wouldn't let us down.

What about doing a taco plate in lieu of that 2" piece?

Something's obviously got lost in the transatlantic translation - I don't even know what a taco plate is. I tried Google but now I just feel hungry. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

@andrewb Fixed it! almost killed my drill though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[tazz9924]

Besides finishing the x bar I also made up the bars to reinforce the front end and subframe mounts and i think it came out well. Tomorrow is a full day of welding because ive put a good bit of welding off on various things and projects so i probably wont have anything to report unless some massive insect comes into my garage (which is becoming scarily common)

[andrewb]

Ha! Good one. Taco plate = sheet wrapped 180 that ends up looking like a taco shell.

A picture paints a thousand words ! Thank you - understood as soon as i saw it. I wonder what we call them over here ?

EDIT : For your information, and just to complete our mutual education, in the UK we appear to call that kind of part a gusset. Which ironically is also that small black triangular part you see over to the left in my avatar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[andrewb]

Fixed it! almost killed my drill though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Then your drill almost died in a good cause - that little piece is a work of art all on its own. Even Tygaboy must be jealous ?
Carry on with the artistry, thank you.

[tazz9924]

The time has come to mate the motor to the chassis. At this point it’s sitting on the engine hoist. I need to remove the exhaust to allow it to sit a little further back (to meet the axle), which can only mean one thing; Custom headers. I planned on doing it anyway but if your gonna twist my arm... might as well. Another consideration is how low i can get it to sit and while i cant get the cylinder heads nearly scraping the ground like id like to, its really not bad and i think the fact it’s sitting 10’ in the air is throwing off my inner collin chappman. I highly doubt i go dry sump especially on a stock block like i plan but you never know what the future holds. Glad to be back again for the time being.

[tazz9924]

Been a while again but back at it! I set the engine back in the car and got the front mounts tacked in place, and began work on the trans mounts. I really like the passenger side. its nice and compact. Ignore the butchered version of ians shifter linkage i will rebuild it i have the technology!
Ps ill also include some photos of what took me so long to get back to this build.




good times at chump car roaf atlanta, built my 68 dart, finished just in time. got 88 laps out on track, finished 69th. Would’ve done better if my radiator (imagine that oil cooler in the fan shroud but bigger and full of water) didn’t get clogged with rust and squirrel nuts. But i had a blast and honestly i think 69th fits the car.

[flyer86d]

Very cool! I like the Dart.

Charlie

[tazz9924]

Alright i continued my adventure into mounting the trans. I built up the other mount and bent some tubes and knotched them to hook up to the trans. It’ll take some reinforcement to make it right but its a good start!

[Andyrew]

Killer welds!

I have been meaning to watch the Doge episode....

[tazz9924]

So i took a few hours out of my day off today to “enjoy myself” and cut the 914 body apart. I left the garage today injured and highly just considering cutting the body in half. Now everyone knows the middle of the stock 914 body is where you need all the strength so when you sit in it, it doesn’t turn into a metal kinder egg with a human prize in the middle. This is still the case in my world but differently because the front half and the rear half of the chassis will want to bend their separate ways when i remove all of their structure. And i do mean all of it. the entire long will be cut out to allow the body to drop around the door bars. so that brings me to a dilema: Cut it in half square it upon the chassis and make those door gaps good. or make some dental style head gear to make it work and remain in one piece. Let me know what you think!

For reference the black line is where i have to cut to fit around the chassis and the yellow is the long.

[Andyrew]

I'd say just cut the outer skin out and mount the pieces together on the flat ground getting the right gaps. The hoods will give you spacing for the right width.

Are you really going to make it a door slammer?

[tazz9924]

I'd say just cut the outer skin out and mount the pieces together on the flat ground getting the right gaps. The hoods will give you spacing for the right width.

Are you really going to make it a door slammer?

Do you mean doors open and close? yes, i figure why not

[914forme]

Me being a bit crazy, this is how I would do it. Orange tubes can be small 1"x1" stuff, and fairly thin walled, or what ever you have. Trianglulate the heck out of it, high to low. Top bar from factory roll bar to A pillar just helps keep it square. Other Option would be put a steel roof on it.

Then I would cut the logs out via otter skin, and then weld it back over the tub you could build out some gussets and it would look stock. If you wanted you could add AN fittings to the tubes running down the logs and run coolant or oil down them. If DOM bursts you have an issue.

Some will say galvanic corrosion will be an issue, but just add a replaceable zinc anode and replace it every few years. Most coolant mixtures will have corrosion inhibitors, you can just keep it fresh and call it a day.

Back to the diagram.

Just modify the locations to not hit your current structures.



the green bars could be turn buckles you use to get your door gaps set, then weld in the rest to hold the gap and keep it from twisting.

[tazz9924]

Me being a bit crazy, this is how I would do it. Orange tubes can be small 1"x1" stuff, and fairly thin walled, or what ever you have. Trianglulate the heck out of it, high to low. Top bar from factory roll bar to A pillar just helps keep it square. Other Option would be put a steel roof on it.

Then I would cut the logs out via otter skin, and then weld it back over the tub you could build out some gussets and it would look stock. If you wanted you could add AN fittings to the tubes running down the logs and run coolant or oil down them. If DOM bursts you have an issue.

Some will say galvanic corrosion will be an issue, but just add a replaceable zinc anode and replace it every few years. Most coolant mixtures will have corrosion inhibitors, you can just keep it fresh and call it a day.

Back to the diagram.

Just modify the locations to not hit your current structures.



the green bars could be turn buckles you use to get your door gaps set, then weld in the rest to hold the gap and keep it from twisting.

Those are extremely good lines! This is basically my other idea visualized, it’s probably worth trying before i go the extreme route. Ill maybe begin giving it a shot tomorrow. Just gotta borrow one of those foul mig welders.