Just another home build 2056 upgrade...but this one is mine!, Redux THrē: It's been so FUN lets do it again..... Options

[rfinegan]

Cleaned the heat shield for the muffler pad I won at Octeenerfest door prize...

[rfinegan]

pad installed

[rfinegan]

Thermostat removed for header tube

[rfinegan]

relocated thermostat

[rfinegan]

Pulled the tins this week end and Re-Torqued the head bolds and set the valve lash. all nuts took about 1/32 of a turn from the last noted position

[930cabman]

Pulled the tins this week end and Re-Torqued the head bolds and set the valve lash. all nuts took about 1/32 of a turn from the last noted position

Cheap insurance. How is she running? have you been on the roads

[rfinegan]

@930cabman

On track for a FIRST drive this holiday week end! Good idle and seem to be responsive to throttle during break in. Smoooth running even before the tuning

I got a set of motor mounts off an another engine bar and EZ enough to get them swapped before the install

Have to wrap a header tube by the speedo and clutch cable

Have to replace the clutch cable( has a fray starting )

Oil change before road test ....Waiting on Filters

Swap Fuel pump for carbs

Did I miss anything?

I am sure I did...but nothing that should set me back from my drive this week end

and tuning with the Wide band (new to me)

SO GLAD I GOT THE THERMOSTAT SORTED

Pulled the tins this week end and Re-Torqued the head bolds and set the valve lash. all nuts took about 1/32 of a turn from the last noted position

Cheap insurance. How is she running? have you been on the roads

[rfinegan]

Tonight did the final zero valve lash. and was balancing the Webers 44 at higher RPM.
To my surprise the engine was breaking up and not making any power.

Was my Main Jets too small?

I am a little embarrassed to say, the engine spins up very quickly and was bouncing off the rev limiter in the Hyfire VI AL

Good to know it was set much lower for the stock 2.0 engine and working as it should

Now its set from my new higher redline and well below valve float

OOOPS, been some time since I played with the settings.. EZ rotary dip switches in a side access panel

NOT too friendly of a place to get to when mounted in the STOCK ECU position by the battery

Glad I have it set and ready to go...for this week ends drive

[BeatNavy]

Congratulations, Robert. Well done. I hope it's satisfying and you enjoy it for many miles, even as you continue to fine tune (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[rfinegan]

@BeatNavy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Its the support that we get here from the 'World" that helps keep us going when things do not go as we expect. Like plug idle jets, just after setting the valve lash. WTF, it was just running fine and now 2 dead cylinders.

As ya'll noticed, I post my failures here too. I learn from them more that some of the successes.

The Wide band O2 tuning will be all new for me on the Weber 44 IDF, but not too far off from from of late model Tune port and feed back carbs/ ECUs of the 80-90 cars
Keep tuned if you like this kind of stuff

I did find a Dyno tune shop only 30 mins from my house. $100.00 and hour or $400.00 an 8 hour day
I bet I can gets some base line pulls and set the best timing in an hour time

[930cabman]

Yes, thank you for posting and letting us comment. I am considering a similar build with Weber 44's.

Mr. Gatornapper claims his engine with 44's rocks

[rfinegan]

@930cabman
I hear its all about tuning out the flat spot on transition from idle circuit > to mains

My 2.0 L had 44 IDF when I got it and the top pull was amazing but the transition was not so much. So, I traded out the 44 for 40 idfs with 32 vents that everyone recommends. The drivability was better but I always missed the strong pull and push into the seat that I had from the 44.

Im better at tuning now so here we go again...


Best Regards and thanks for the feed back


-Robert

Yes, thank you for posting and letting us comment. I am considering a similar build with Weber 44's.

Mr. Gatornapper claims his engine with 44's rocks

[rfinegan]

New Hi-torque starter is a little close to the Trunk /floor pan.



Little reclocking of the starter and a slight push up on the floor pan and Im good to go...

[rfinegan]

Malory HiFIre VI AL CD /rev limiter is installed where the ECU used to reside.



Did I mention how much I HATE the glue on the fire wall! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

[rfinegan]

Today I added a different ground strap. The old one I think did not flow enough current for the starter and high load accessories.

[rfinegan]

I have the bottom the the engine buttoned up and routed the NEW clutch cable with the speed in a heat wrap. Over the headers and out of the way of the wrapped pipes. NO low hanging cables, wires or such...she will get a good power washing once out of the garage.

[rfinegan]

Tomorrow will be the fuel pump up front and some fuel lines to the carbs and the last of the electrical connections for the HI Fire Mallory CD...

ITs on all fours and NO JACK STANDS. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

time for a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[rfinegan]

Thank you to all that check in and participated in the comments during the build..

Here is a video of the test drive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUeKvJrBFgo


More tuning and clean up coming soon. As you know these things NEVER END

I must say this combo seem to perform very well and not too much for the street driven driven car

[rfinegan]

What happened? I had Ben here on Tuesday and he too drove the car for a short spin and it was driving out fine...Like the video. I put about 20 mile on her and is now about 100 miles total and did a fresh oil change just before.

2 problems under investigation

1) Heavy spark knock from time to time after spirited driving. Happens on over geared low RPM on tip in of throttle . not so much on down shift. Maybe lean carb or sticking weights in Malory ?

2) Heard what sounded like a dry bearing howl on idle that started to pull the engine down to a stall. put a few revs to here and noise went away This happened 2 times


...but every things seems to be pretty good till THIS:

Pulled the distributor on Thursday night to see it its sticking.. Pulled it apart and weights was just a little sticky but springs back k OK.. cleaned and lubed and reduced the mechanical advance to about 18*... SO 10 initial + 18 mechanical =28.. I was about 30 before. Maybe this will help. Installed and set up...but will not start. I tried lots of things but only popping.. IT tuns out I must have clock the advance plate 180* off?

YEP went out today at lunch and flipped the plate and installed. Started right up
set initial timing to 10* seem to be running OK...Went to check the timing at 3k

I increased the engine speed to 3k and started to set timing light to 28. Before I could find the mark, the engines startle clanging and clacking like somethings was loose in the valve train. Then that howl can back and pulled the engine to a stall .Restarted and engine had a miss fire turned out to be #3 and oil leak under car.. been dry to this point and now puddles

I pulled the valve cover and confirmed that the #3 intake valve was not moving and was stuck open. and pushrod was bent

Pulled Engine
Pulled head
Valve smacked the piston and bent intake valve. WTF! 3k is not floating the valves with double springs and rev limiter @ 6500. Never hit rev limiter at 6500

WELL in in this far, its getting bulled down to see if a spun bearing or something is causing the Howl.
I pulled the other head and Guess WHAt? Same thing. #1 intake kissed the head, looks like one time and bent the push rod and broke a pieces of the head by the push rod tube(it was bent)off the rocker

I noticed oil in the cylinder 1 with brass of bronze flakes and in the combustion chamber. This is odd as I just changed the oil and no metallic seen only the moly beack in lube( pretty good investigation for 4 hrs)

[rfinegan]

another pic