First of the Texas Twins, First Build Options

[Puebloswatcop]

Since I plan on changing from a stock steering wheel to a Momo, I went ahead and set up the adapter. The part number I used was a Momo 8002, solid mount.



Momo sends the unit with all predrilled holes, and sheet metal screws to screw on the horn ring. I had planned on using the mounting screws from the original steering wheel to mount the ring, but they are like a 3.5 mm screw and I could not locate the proper tap, so I re-drilled the original holes and tapped them to fit a 4 mm x .7 x 10 mm screw. I had to drill out the holes in the horn ring a tiny bit but everything lined up great

[autopro]

I wasn't aware of that wiper switch modification, it's a great solution thanks for posting! I had already purchased a pump a while back but was just going to install a hidden switch somewhere under the dash for it. Because of this post I went ahead and ordered the switch.

Great job on the car, keep it up.

[Puebloswatcop]

After completing the sub assemblies, I began assembling the main structures. To make the bearing installation easier I first put the steering shaft and both bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours. I also put the lower bearing carrier and the upper housing out in the Texas sun, to heat them up. I was hoping that this would aid in easier insertion of the bearings, and it did to a point.

I did the lower bearing first. I did get it about halfway into the carrier, but then had to gently tap it into place. The key here is to insure that you only tap the outer bearing race, so I used a matching sized socket and just tapped it in. It has to go in until it bottoms out and is past the groove for the circlip. Then I inserted the circlip that holds it in place.



I then did the same with the with the upper bearing in the housing. The new bearing came with a plastic insert, which I left in during installation.



Then it was time to install the steering shaft. It sat in the freezer for an additional 30 minutes so was really quite easy to slide in.

First I removed the plastic guard that was in the upper bearing and installed the crush sleeve on the shaft.

Now, if you do this quickly enough the shaft will slide into both bearings without any force. I installed the lower end first, since it is more of an interference fit, Then installed it into the upper housing since that part of the shaft has a crush collar. Then installed the lock rings on both ends. When I spun the shaft in the bearings it was a 100% improvement over the worn bearings.



Once everything was in place I reinstalled the bolt that holds the two sections together in the housing.

[Puebloswatcop]

Then it was time to re-install all of the guts. First I re-lubed the switch mechanism as best I could, using dielectric grease. Then reinserted the mechanism back into the housing. The wires for the new washer switch just feed down the open area where the lower and upper housings screw together and the rest goes back into the channel that they were originally in. (Sorry, but I failed to take a picture of this). Be careful not to overtighten the four screws that hold the mechanism in place or you can crack the plastic portions of the mechanism.

Then re-insert the ignition switch / key assembly. You may have to gently tap it to get it to seat all the way in. You may also want to turn the key to the on position which may help getting it to seat.



Then screw the retainer back in place. This would have been the last step if it werent for the Momo adapter. Installing it is just like installing the steering wheel. Just make sure when you install it the the turn signal cancellation prortion of the horn ring is lined up with the turn signal stalk, that way when you turn the wheel it will hit the cancellation mechanism when you turn the wheel.



If all has gone well, there will be no left over parts and you'll have a nice new steering column with all the modern upgrades

[Puebloswatcop]

I wasn't aware of that wiper switch modification, it's a great solution thanks for posting! I had already purchased a pump a while back but was just going to install a hidden switch somewhere under the dash for it. Because of this post I went ahead and ordered the switch.

Great job on the car, keep it up.

You may want to reference Bob Krantz's "Rebuilding Inside Out" post as well for any clarification on the process, or feel free to contact me if you have questions.

[Puebloswatcop]

I forgot how much I love chipping the spray on under coating that was on this car....Said no man ever. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

And now its time for NASCAR and a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[Puebloswatcop]

Spent most of the day sand blasting miscellaneous parts today, but did get the passenger side seal gutter patched where the windshield pillar/cowel and fender come together. I started to weld it, but then realized that most of the finish welding will have to be done from underneath, so I will finish it when its on the rotisserie since my back won't bend enough to climb underneath.

[Puebloswatcop]

Today I decided to work on the engine compartment cover. si First I had to re-install the missing hinge.

[Puebloswatcop]

Then I went to work on the engine lid. I started working on this about 2 yers ago. My goal was to create something similar to the GT lid, only leaving more of the frame intact for rigidity. So I took an extra lid that I had and cut the solid portion out to about 1 inch smaller than the screen. Then spent hours bending the lip down so the screen would fit.

So today I decided to go back to work and get the screen properly fit.

[Puebloswatcop]

Then I drilled holes to mirror the regular screen in the lip of the cut out, these match the studs that are on the edge of the screen. The rest of the studs that face downward had to be carefully removed, being careful not to grind into the mesh.

[Puebloswatcop]

Then after spending the better part of an hour grinding off the remnants of the welds from the screen, I began to shape it to fit the cut out in the lid. Since I don't have access to a metal break, I used two pices of sharp edged wood and slowly hammered the bend on the front edge and sides.

[Puebloswatcop]

After getting what I though was a fairly good fit, I was having a difficult time seeing if the joints looked crisp, because of the paint missing from the lid frame. So I shot it with a quick coat of white paint, so I could get a better visualization. Still a bit of tweeking to do, but so far I am happy with how it turned out. I even gave it a trial fit on the car to make sure everything lined up.

[Puebloswatcop]

Today started off by identifying any PO drilled holes in the firewall. I found 2, the first one is evidentally where he drilled through to "bolt" the broken engine lid hinge in place....




The second was two holes he drilled, for what I dont know....

[Puebloswatcop]

I began by forming a piece to fill the latger hole. Just my luck it wasn't in a flat portion, so had to put a slight curve in it so it wouldnd have thin spots when finished. I have got to get some smaller magnets to hold these small patches...

[Puebloswatcop]

Then welded it all up to include the small hole below the large one.



Then filled in the hole from the hinge bolt

[Puebloswatcop]

Then I removed the body filler that was in the lower wall on the passenger side, afraid of what I might find. I was pleasantly surprised to find a half decent repair, probably as a result of battery rust in the hell hole, but insted of using seam filler, they used body filler to cover it up. It needs some touch up work, but it is a solid repair.

[Puebloswatcop]

And with that I decided I was tired of trying to climb under and around the car to weld in odd positions. So I decided I would start prepping the car to go on the rotisserie. I removed the doors and installed the adjustable support bars in their places.

[bkrantz]

Today started off by identifying any PO drilled holes in the firewall. I found 2, the first one is evidentally where he drilled through to "bolt" the broken engine lid hinge in place....




The second was two holes he drilled, for what I dont know....

Only two? Your PO was much lazier than mine, which had at least a dozen drilled and punched holes.

BTW, nice work!

[Puebloswatcop]

Today started off by identifying any PO drilled holes in the firewall. I found 2, the first one is evidentally where he drilled through to "bolt" the broken engine lid hinge in place....




The second was two holes he drilled, for what I dont know....

Only two? Your PO was much lazier than mine, which had at least a dozen drilled and punched holes.

BTW, nice work!

Thanks Bob. I noticed as I was looking back through your posts that the PO had turned your firewall into swiss cheese. I consider myself pretty lucky so far. Thanks for your post, it has given me allot of encouragement.

[Puebloswatcop]

Decided to take a break from working on the body this weekend. So cleaned up a bunch of parts and re-packed them. Now they are ready for re-installation and easy to find.

The first to get a serious cleaning were the two fuel tank rubber supports...