First of the Texas Twins, First Build Options

[Puebloswatcop]

Next up...the main shaft. This had some minor rust and hardened grease on it. There is a center ring in the top of the shaft that can be removed allowing the entire assembly to be taken apart. However I chose to forgo tearing this mechanism apart. Instead I used pipe cleaners and PB Blaster to clean the parts, then sprayed the remnant debris out with carburator cleaner. All of the bearing contact surfaces were polished using 4-0 steel wool.

[Puebloswatcop]

The FI breaker points weren't too bad, but I cleaned them using carb cleaner to get all the nasty grease off of them then used electric contact cleaner to clean the entire assembly.

[Puebloswatcop]

Lastly I polishedup the vacuum canister....so now that everything is clean I can start re-assembly.

[Puebloswatcop]

So I drove into town today to get distributor cam lube. Go to the first local auto parts store and tell them what I am looking for.....deer in the headlights look. I got more specific and told them I was looking for a silicone based grease for lubing the distributor cam....the older guy behind the counter, who I would guess was old enough to have had a car with breaker points in his distributor, tries to sell me silicone spray lube. I knew at this point it was a lost cause.

So I went to the second auto parts store. The first guy I spoke to at the counter said" I never heard of lubricating a distributor before....Refers me to the second guy who is "a hot rod guy". He knows exactly what I am talking about, but says, good luck finding it.

So I guess now I know that out here in east Texas, the days of the old guys working on old cars and expecting to find the parts they need are gone.....Once again ordered on the internet and now have to wait a couple of days.....So much for supporting local business.

[ClayPerrine]

So I drove into town today to get distributor cam lube. Go to the first local auto parts store and tell them what I am looking for.....deer in the headlights look. I got more specific and told them I was looking for a silicone based grease for lubing the distributor cam....the older guy behind the counter, who I would guess was old enough to have had a car with breaker points in his distributor, tries to sell me silicone spray lube. I knew at this point it was a lost cause.

So I went to the second auto parts store. The first guy I spoke to at the counter said" I never heard of lubricating a distributor before....Refers me to the second guy who is "a hot rod guy". He knows exactly what I am talking about, but says, good luck finding it.

So I guess now I know that out here in east Texas, the days of the old guys working on old cars and expecting to find the parts they need are gone.....Once again ordered on the internet and now have to wait a couple of days.....So much for supporting local business.

Take I-30 to Mesquite,then take I-635 south to I-20 into Arlington. On the corner of I-20 and 360 there is a Summit Racing warehouse. Probably an hour's drive for you. They will have distributor lube in stock.

The only other place would be a NAPA auto parts. I don't know where one is east of Dallas. But the rest of the chains don't have people or parts for old cars, and all the old independent auto parts stores with the knowledgeable counter men are gone.

Hope that helps.

Clay

[Puebloswatcop]

So I drove into town today to get distributor cam lube. Go to the first local auto parts store and tell them what I am looking for.....deer in the headlights look. I got more specific and told them I was looking for a silicone based grease for lubing the distributor cam....the older guy behind the counter, who I would guess was old enough to have had a car with breaker points in his distributor, tries to sell me silicone spray lube. I knew at this point it was a lost cause.

So I went to the second auto parts store. The first guy I spoke to at the counter said" I never heard of lubricating a distributor before....Refers me to the second guy who is "a hot rod guy". He knows exactly what I am talking about, but says, good luck finding it.

So I guess now I know that out here in east Texas, the days of the old guys working on old cars and expecting to find the parts they need are gone.....Once again ordered on the internet and now have to wait a couple of days.....So much for supporting local business.

Take I-30 to Mesquite,then take I-635 south to I-20 into Arlington. On the corner of I-20 and 360 there is a Summit Racing warehouse. Probably an hour's drive for you. They will have distributor lube in stock.

The only other place would be a NAPA auto parts. I don't know where one is east of Dallas. But the rest of the chains don't have people or parts for old cars, and all the old independent auto parts stores with the knowledgeable counter men are gone.

Hope that helps.

Clay

Thanks Clay. I will keep that in mind for future needs. For now I was able to order it online with free shipping. It just gets frustrating when I drive all over east Texas, trying to support local businesses and either no one has a clue what you are talking about or they just don't have it......

[porschetub]

The inside of the distributor is dirty with a combination of old lube, dirt and some minor rust. After removing the breaker points I removed the mounting/advance plate as well. (sorry for the poor pic quality)

IMO the advance plate is usually the main cause of sticking advance,rust and crap get between the sliding plates so its not just a matter of a bit of spray lube because due to the fit of these parts it simply won't get in there.
The vacuum canister is overcome by the friction and causes slow or no advance and the same issue on retard often resulting in high idle as one example.
I used to overhaul Bosch VW units and found this is common with the "205" units,you have done this overhaul correctly ,well done,keep up the good work.

[Puebloswatcop]

The inside of the distributor is dirty with a combination of old lube, dirt and some minor rust. After removing the breaker points I removed the mounting/advance plate as well. (sorry for the poor pic quality)

IMO the advance plate is usually the main cause of sticking advance,rust and crap get between the sliding plates so its not just a matter of a bit of spray lube because due to the fit of these parts it simply won't get in there.
The vacuum canister is overcome by the friction and causes slow or no advance and the same issue on retard often resulting in high idle as one example.
I used to overhaul Bosch VW units and found this is common with the "205" units,you have done this overhaul correctly ,well done,keep up the good work.

Thanks for the compliment. Thats my feeling as well. Wether I use this distributor or pass it to someone else, I want it to be done correctly, so that it is a plus and not a detriment. Those sliding plates have a large surface interface, so just spraying in some lousy lube and expecting it to be successful is, IMHO, a foolish waste of time and money. I'd rather spend a little extra money and do the job correctly.

[Puebloswatcop]

Unfortunately 3 days of work took place of working on the Porsche. But the lube for the distributor did arrive. It is a silicone based grease, pretty much the generic brand of the Bosch lubricant, which at this time is not available.

[Puebloswatcop]

Starting with the distributor body, the first thing is to lubricate the pad in the bottom of the body. It just gets a few drops of motor oil, it is the pad that helps to keep the rotor portion of shaft that activates the trigger points for the fuel injection.

In addition to this lube, I did lightly lubricate the shaft with some of the grease. Then in accordance with the manual, I put a small amount of lubricant on each of the rubbing blocks of the trigger points.

[Puebloswatcop]

One important thing is to note that the distributor drive that engages the drive gear is not centered. So I made sure to mark the shaft as to its orientation. The scratch mark was hard to see in the picture so I used a sharpie to make it more visible.

[Puebloswatcop]

The next step is to re-insert the retaining pin. This pin free floats in the engagement ring but is a VERY tight fit in the distributor shaft. I recommend pressing the pin in. Unfortunately my press is not here, So I carefully used my bench vise with aluminum jaw covers to push it in, being careful not to pinch the bottom of the distributor body. (sorry no pic). Then used a punch to counter sink it and center the pin in the engagement ring

[Puebloswatcop]

Then you just walk the spring retainer back in position over the pin. Next a thin layer of grease goes onto the friction ring on the bottom plate and the two plates a mounted back together.

[Puebloswatcop]

Then its time to put all of the guts back inside the top part of the distributor. Its easiest to screw in the retaining screws for the top plate, these are the screws that hold the distributor cap clips as well, I just put them in temporarily so I can put the Vacuum actuator and clip back on. Then its is a matter of re-inserting the points and condensor wire, making sure to dab a small amount of grease on the rubbing block of the points and a thin layer to the distributor cam. Sorry the quality of some of the pictures is a bit lacking, this new phone I got does not take as good of pictures as the old one.

[RRietman]

So I drove into town today to get distributor cam lube. Go to the first local auto parts store and tell them what I am looking for.....deer in the headlights look. I got more specific and told them I was looking for a silicone based grease for lubing the distributor cam....the older guy behind the counter, who I would guess was old enough to have had a car with breaker points in his distributor, tries to sell me silicone spray lube. I knew at this point it was a lost cause.

So I went to the second auto parts store. The first guy I spoke to at the counter said" I never heard of lubricating a distributor before....Refers me to the second guy who is "a hot rod guy". He knows exactly what I am talking about, but says, good luck finding it.

So I guess now I know that out here in east Texas, the days of the old guys working on old cars and expecting to find the parts they need are gone.....Once again ordered on the internet and now have to wait a couple of days.....So much for supporting local business.

Take I-30 to Mesquite,then take I-635 south to I-20 into Arlington. On the corner of I-20 and 360 there is a Summit Racing warehouse. Probably an hour's drive for you. They will have distributor lube in stock.

The only other place would be a NAPA auto parts. I don't know where one is east of Dallas. But the rest of the chains don't have people or parts for old cars, and all the old independent auto parts stores with the knowledgeable counter men are gone.

Hope that helps.

Clay

Thanks Clay. I will keep that in mind for future needs. For now I was able to order it online with free shipping. It just gets frustrating when I drive all over east Texas, trying to support local businesses and either no one has a clue what you are talking about or they just don't have it......

K; there is an old school napa store in tyler. on beckham I have had good luck there with odd stuff. about 40 min for you.
Good luck
Randy

[Puebloswatcop]

So I drove into town today to get distributor cam lube. Go to the first local auto parts store and tell them what I am looking for.....deer in the headlights look. I got more specific and told them I was looking for a silicone based grease for lubing the distributor cam....the older guy behind the counter, who I would guess was old enough to have had a car with breaker points in his distributor, tries to sell me silicone spray lube. I knew at this point it was a lost cause.

So I went to the second auto parts store. The first guy I spoke to at the counter said" I never heard of lubricating a distributor before....Refers me to the second guy who is "a hot rod guy". He knows exactly what I am talking about, but says, good luck finding it.

So I guess now I know that out here in east Texas, the days of the old guys working on old cars and expecting to find the parts they need are gone.....Once again ordered on the internet and now have to wait a couple of days.....So much for supporting local business.

Take I-30 to Mesquite,then take I-635 south to I-20 into Arlington. On the corner of I-20 and 360 there is a Summit Racing warehouse. Probably an hour's drive for you. They will have distributor lube in stock.

The only other place would be a NAPA auto parts. I don't know where one is east of Dallas. But the rest of the chains don't have people or parts for old cars, and all the old independent auto parts stores with the knowledgeable counter men are gone.

Hope that helps.

Clay

Thanks Clay. I will keep that in mind for future needs. For now I was able to order it online with free shipping. It just gets frustrating when I drive all over east Texas, trying to support local businesses and either no one has a clue what you are talking about or they just don't have it......

K; there is an old school napa store in tyler. on beckham I have had good luck there with odd stuff. about 40 min for you.
Good luck
Randy

Thanks Randy, I'll check them out.

[Puebloswatcop]

My new tool from Empi arrived today. It is the gear puller for the crankshft. Empi's Part number is 00-5714-01. On Empi's web site it sells for $131. Got it on Amazon for $82.
The quality seems to be top notch.

So of course I could not resist to try it out, feel like a kid at Christmas time....

[Puebloswatcop]

Of course it comes with no instructions, so when I first tried to install it on the crank gear, it wouldn't fit. Then I realized it does both type 1 and type 4 gear sets and of course was set up for type 1. Flipped the bottom plate over and walla, set up for type 4, and it slid right into place....

[Puebloswatcop]

It took me longer to get my airgun and socket (14mm) set up and ready to go than it did to remove the gear set. Definitly a great investment....Thanks Empi.

[Puebloswatcop]

Well, back from sunny San Diego. Wish it had been a vacation, but I spent a week re-siding my parents house. Still a fun time.

But now its back to work. So I decided to go ahead and pull the gears, etc. off of the other crank that was laying out in the garage. Before I could get to the gears though I had to pull the fan hub. So a 3 armed puller, a little heat and an impact wrench and done.