Tom's V8 Project, Yes,I know, another v8 Options

[Aaron Cox]

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jul 29 2005, 02:46 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jul 29 2005, 02:40 PM) 930 CV's are huge..... use them and make adapters.... since they are so readily available and used throughiout the offroad industry.... why not use them.... do that or the 951 axle route.... 914 coarse flanges / 951 Cv / 951 axle / 951 CV / 951 Stub / Early 911 hub (pre 74) DONE i'm confused (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) so will the 930 cv's fit on regular 911 axles? , will the 930 cv's fit on bus axles? is there a difference??

journey into the great unknown my friend....


VW guys use em.... so i dunno. and ive seen em with custom length axles (long travel cars etc....)

ask on Pelican, along with calling some buggy shops

should know:
Car Craft in riverside CA

[lybones]

QUOTE (Andyrew @ Jul 29 2005, 01:08 PM)

Tom, do you have the renegade setup? (ie vw Bus axles?) or.... Cus I have bus axles as well.. Andrew

these are renegade hp axles that I purchased from PelicanParts.com.

[neo914-6]

Call these guys:

custom flanges 914 930 VW
West Coast Core

Work: 661-726-9915
E-Mail: JjMoneyhogg@aol.com

42540 6th st east D
Lancaster, CA 93535

Note:
Porsche 930 to 914 cv flange
$130 set

930 CV $60 ea - 6 bolt
Flanges $160 + $30 core 4-5 day turn around

open 8:00 - 5:00 Mon - Fri California time
9:00 - 2:00 Sat

sells primarily on eBay

[Mueller]

Call these guys:

custom flanges 914 930 VW
West Coast Core

Work: 661-726-9915
E-Mail: JjMoneyhogg@aol.com

42540 6th st east D
Lancaster, CA 93535

Note:
Porsche 930 to 914 cv flange
$130 set

930 CV $60 ea - 6 bolt
Flanges $160 + $30 core 4-5 day turn around

open 8:00 - 5:00 Mon - Fri California time
9:00 - 2:00 Sat

sells primarily on eBay

according to some quick reading over on STF, ex-employees of Mark Stephens ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) ) and not the best quality parts and difficult to deal with......

[lybones]

930 CV's are huge.....

use them and make adapters....
since they are so readily available and used throughiout the offroad industry.... why not use them....

do that or the 951 axle route....
914 coarse flanges / 951 Cv / 951 axle / 951 CV / 951 Stub / Early 911 hub (pre 74)

DONE

i'm confused (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

so will the 930 cv's fit on regular 911 axles? , will the 930 cv's fit on bus axles? is there a difference??

journey into the great unknown my friend....


VW guys use em.... so i dunno. and ive seen em with custom length axles (long travel cars etc....)

ask on Pelican, along with calling some buggy shops

should know:
Car Craft in riverside CA

My brother inlaw found my flanges! He was sorting out his new garage and found them. He said he must have removed them before he tossed the junk tranny. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I'll be getting the axles, radiator hoses, and carb hooked up this weekend. I guess bitching about something all the time to someone works after all. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[lybones]

Finally had a chance to install the axles. and radiator hose

[lybones]

right

[lybones]

going to setup the carb next. Anybody have any tips on Edelbrock performer carb linkage setup?

[John2kx]

Tom,

Page 6 and 7 of Roger's v8 thread should give you some ideas of how to connect throttle.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...&t=33301&st=100

John

[lybones]

back half of exhaust system getting welded up.

[lybones]

After a long dry spell with the project, I have finally setup the carb, finish welding the exhaust and cranked up the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

[lybones]

I couldn't believe how much valve train chatter I got when first starting up the motor . I was shocked when I opened up the valve covers to find out all the valves were super loose (this is a brand new gm crate motor). After a quick valve adjustment, I then can actually start hearing other noises like minor exhaust leaks coming from the header that needs to be addressed.

[Mr.C]

Were the lifters pumped up? Reason I ask is I made a mistake once while working on a 289 that sat for a long time with that circumstance. On initial start up I got the loose rocker syndrome and tightened them up. Well the lifter hadn't pumped up yet and I created a whole lot of problems.

[914-8]

yeah, id be careful that the lifters hadnt pumped up yet.

what procedure did you use to adjust the valves?

[lybones]

Were the lifters pumped up? Reason I ask is I made a mistake once while working on a 289 that sat for a long time with that circumstance. On initial start up I got the loose rocker syndrome and tightened them up. Well the lifter hadn't pumped up yet and I created a whole lot of problems.

I don't know what "pumped up" quite means. I let the engine run for at least half an hour before driving it and the whole time the motor was rattling. Two mechanics who saw it said the valves were loose. I adjusted the valves by turning the motor until each valve spring was wide open then tightened the nut down until the push rod was snug, but can still spin. I did this for all the valves. The engine sounds good now. I hope I did this is right cause you guys are freaking me out now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[messix]

to adjust hyd. lifters , tighten till you feel restistance while trying to spin the push rod, then thighten 3/4 turn more.

[914-8]

I've adjusted more valves on 914 and 911 engines than I can remember, but am no expert on Chebby valve adjust, BUT . . .

I'm not sure you've done yours right. Maybe because I'm misunderstanding what you're saying. Anyways, here's my understanding how it's done (I'm assuming you have hydraulic, not solid, lifters):

Engine Running Procedure

1. They are often adjusted while the engine is fully warmed and RUNNING! The procedure is to loosen the valve until you start to hear it clatter, then tighten it down just until the clatter stops. Then turn it a quarter to half turn more.

I've tried this. It was difficult. I used a cut open valve cover to try to contain the mess, but it was still messy. And hot. And hard to hear when it start to clatter and stops. Seemed very random to me!

Engine Not-Running Procedure

1. Unlike on Porsches, the valves on the SBC are adjusted when the engine is HOT! Not cold. This is impt because the lifters need to be pressurized with oil for the adjustment to be correct. If the engine is cold, it is possible that a lifter (or lifters) have bled off pressure, and your adjustment will be incorrect).

2. You turn the engine until the valve is fully OPEN. That means the valve spring is fully COMPRESSED. Your post suggests to me you adjusted when the valve was fully CLOSED ("I adjusted the valves by turning the motor until each valve spring was wide open").

3. Then you loosen the rocker until the pushrod is loose. Spin the pushrod between your fingers while at the same time tightening down the rocker, just until you start to feel resistance. That resistance is the pushrod just starting to push down on the hydraulic lifter. Then tighten the rocker nut down 1/8 to 1/2 turn more.

There may be other ways that work, but those are the two that I know of.

[Andyrew]

My dad likes to do it with the engine running.. loosen till the pushrods loose.. then tighten till it stops an go 1/2 more.


He does some other stuff as well.. but I cant remember, he's the expert..
Gets em done fast.. lol

[Twystd1]

I was freaking out when I read how you adjusted your valves.

That is an IN-CORRECT procedure you used.

914-8 is exactly correct on the proper method.

ALSO: It helps if you have a set of pushrod/rocker keepers to keep the the oil from squirting
all over you and the car while you adjust them.
(these little guys snap over your rocker arms to keep the oil from squirting in your face while you adjust them)
And you can cut up a set of old stamped steel valve covers to keep the oil from going over the side of your engine while adjusting.

Aw hell... it would take me an hour to write this correctly..

Just do some net searching on the V-8 performance forums and they will have pics galore of what i am talking about.


Please don't rev the shit out of your engine till you have re-done the procedure correctly.

NOTE: Some of the LATEST crate engines that chevy sells can be adjusted cold.

Me thinks this ain't one of em...... Cause this ain't an LS engine.

Do it once... Do it right...
Regards,
Clayton

[lybones]

I've adjusted more valves on 914 and 911 engines than I can remember, but am no expert on Chebby valve adjust, BUT . . .

I'm not sure you've done yours right. Maybe because I'm misunderstanding what you're saying. Anyways, here's my understanding how it's done (I'm assuming you have hydraulic, not solid, lifters):

Engine Running Procedure

1. They are often adjusted while the engine is fully warmed and RUNNING! The procedure is to loosen the valve until you start to hear it clatter, then tighten it down just until the clatter stops. Then turn it a quarter to half turn more.

I've tried this. It was difficult. I used a cut open valve cover to try to contain the mess, but it was still messy. And hot. And hard to hear when it start to clatter and stops. Seemed very random to me!

Engine Not-Running Procedure

1. Unlike on Porsches, the valves on the SBC are adjusted when the engine is HOT! Not cold. This is impt because the lifters need to be pressurized with oil for the adjustment to be correct. If the engine is cold, it is possible that a lifter (or lifters) have bled off pressure, and your adjustment will be incorrect).

2. You turn the engine until the valve is fully OPEN. That means the valve spring is fully COMPRESSED. Your post suggests to me you adjusted when the valve was fully CLOSED ("I adjusted the valves by turning the motor until each valve spring was wide open").

3. Then you loosen the rocker until the pushrod is loose. Spin the pushrod between your fingers while at the same time tightening down the rocker, just until you start to feel resistance. That resistance is the pushrod just starting to push down on the hydraulic lifter. Then tighten the rocker nut down 1/8 to 1/2 turn more.

There may be other ways that work, but those are the two that I know of.

So it sounds like I should have snug down the push rods only when the valve spring was completely compressed and not wide open? The other steps I did seems to be correct. The engine idles smooth and quiet now, but if I did this wrong should there have been any obvious signs? I'm not going to run it untill I know for sure.