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> Tom's V8 Project, Yes,I know, another v8
Dr. Roger
post Oct 22 2006, 02:00 PM
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Regarding SBC's with hydraulic lifters:

I've adjusted them both cold and hot.
Mostly hot. most pro's also do it hot. The procedure is to pull valve covers, install anti-spray clips over rocker arms, then start engine.
Then loosen rocker arms, one at a time, until clacking is heard, then slowly tighten till clacking stops. At that point tighten about 1/4 turn. That's it. do all 8 and you shoudl have a quiet engine. warning do not play around with over tightening rockers as you could find yourself pushing a valve into the top of your piston. if you have any doubt about this find a friend who's done it before and watch over his or her shoulder. =-)

Cold adjustment.
do not start engine. valve covers off. bring each cylinder up to TDC when the spark is going to fire. this ensures that both valves are fully closed and lifters are not coming in contact with cam lobes. back off rockers, one at a time, until you can feel some play. then tighten till there's no play. at that point tighten only 1/4 turn more. no worries about the valves opening as the lifter springs are much weaker than the valve springs and this is where the slack is taken up in the valve train and how hydraulic valves keep quiet.

I used the cold adjustment method on the latest engine and I still haven't needed to touch my rockers. still runs quiet.

if the rockers are too tight the valves won't close completely. you'll get a missfire.

sounds like you got it but i thought i'd throw my $.02 in case there's need for clarification.

looking good.
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Heeltoe914
post Oct 22 2006, 02:06 PM
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I saw this car on Sat, and it did sound like the vavles may be a little tight after reading this. Tom the stumble could very well be from this adj, not being correct. Good job on your work, Thanks for the clutch package.
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lybones
post Oct 22 2006, 05:24 PM
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QUOTE(Heeltoe914 @ Oct 22 2006, 01:06 PM) *

I saw this car on Sat, and it did sound like the vavles may be a little tight after reading this. Tom the stumble could very well be from this adj, not being correct. Good job on your work, Thanks for the clutch package.



Thanks everyone for chiming in. I think I have enough feedback to actually get a professional to adjust my valves just to be sure it's done right. In the mean time I still have to extend my shifter rod an inch and look into why my tranny is stuck in 4th gear( cannot budge the gear selector by hand at all). Lee, I will first do what you had mentioned by opening the selector cover the see if the fork is out of alignment. I hope the clutch works great for you.

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Twystd1
post Oct 23 2006, 08:54 PM
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I just realized your in garden grove.

When ya want me to come over and adjust your valves?

Clayton
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914-8
post Oct 23 2006, 09:52 PM
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You wanna do mine, too?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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Andyrew
post Oct 23 2006, 10:02 PM
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lol..

Rogger nailed it.. It takes what, 5 mins to adjust the valves?
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Twystd1
post Oct 23 2006, 10:21 PM
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Hell,

Put both cars in the same place..

We can adjust em fast.

All we need is the clips.
(I think I have em... haven't looked in a year or so)
(They B cheap at flaps)

And a stock valve cover we can cut up.

If ya don't want any oil to spill onto the side of the block and headers.

Engines with hi flow and/or hi pressure oil pumps will flow enough oil to make it spill over the lip on the heads. Then the oil drips over the lip and goes all over the block and headers..

I hate adjusting valves while I am eating oil smoke.

Once you have seen it done on one or two valves. You will know for the rest of your life.

AND.. you may need to re-set your idle when done. Valve adjustment will occasionaly make the idle go up or down. As the idle vaccum is now changed. So the carb registers the idle mixture differently.
Just turn a screw to fix..!!! No probs.
Easy..Peasy....

C
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914-8
post Oct 23 2006, 10:27 PM
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I have a cut open spare valve cover. But not the clips. I tried adjusting while running, and it got messy so I stopped. I also had a hard time "hearing" it. I guess from lack of experience with it.

So I adjusted them using the "engine off" method that I described earlier in the tread. I think I did it right, but wouldn't mind a check by someone with experience.

Valve adjust party!!!
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lybones
post Oct 24 2006, 01:11 AM
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QUOTE(Twystd1 @ Oct 23 2006, 07:54 PM) *

I just realized your in garden grove.

When ya want me to come over and adjust your valves?

Clayton




You guys are serious, huh? Let's do it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Twystd1
post Oct 24 2006, 01:25 AM
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I'm not messing with you.

Lets get it done. AND we have a cut valve cover to use..YEAHHHHH.

Are either one of you guys using stud girdles on your valve train?

Or are either one of you using roller rockers?

Are either one of you using RHOADES style anti-pump-up lifters?

If so. What is your setup..

And yes is makes a differance.!!!!!!!!!

Clayton
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lybones
post Oct 24 2006, 10:34 AM
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QUOTE(Twystd1 @ Oct 24 2006, 12:25 AM) *

I'm not messing with you.

Lets get it done. AND we have a cut valve cover to use..YEAHHHHH.

Are either one of you guys using stud girdles on your valve train?

Or are either one of you using roller rockers?

Are either one of you using RHOADES style anti-pump-up lifters?

If so. What is your setup..

And yes is makes a differance.!!!!!!!!!

Clayton



I would be forever greatful if you can get this new motor dialed in just right for me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) I know for sure I don't have roller rockers. I don't know too much about small blocks yet, but here is a description of my crate motor:




part number: CE01
cubic inches: 350 Cubic Inches
liters: 5.7 Liters
horsepower: 330 Horsepower @ 5000 RPM
torque: 380 ft/lbs @ 3500 RPM
compression ratio: 9.1 to 1
block: 4-bolt, cast iron, 4.000" bore
crankshaft: Cast nodular, 3.480" stroke
head, chamber size: Vortec, cast iron, 64cc chamber
valve sizes (i/e): 1.940" / 1.500"
camshaft lift (i/e): 0.435" / 0.460" hydraulic
cam duration (i/e): 212 / 222 degrees @ 0.050 lift
warranty: 1-Year limited warranty


Brand New Chevrolet 350HO, 350 cubic inch, 330 horsepower Crate Engine
This is a Brand New 350 cubic inch small block Chevy crate engine that pumps out an honest 330 horsepower. With it's 4-bolt main block, nodular iron crankshaft, PM steel connecting rods and light but strong cast aluminum pistons, this engine screams durability. Add to the strong foundation a pair of 64cc Vortec cast iron cylinder heads and a dual pattern camshaft with just a bit of a "lopey" idle, and you've got the muscle car small block that you've been looking for. Dressed to impress with chrome valve covers and timing cover, this engine will look great between the fenders of your favorite street rod, muscle car, or grass roots racer.
The cylinder heads on this great little performer use 1.94" intake valves and 1.50" exhaust valves that are sprung with 1999 L31 valve springs. The 64cc combustion chambers yield a healthy, but streetable 9.1 to 1 compression ratio.
The camshaft is a modern dual pattern interpretation of the old '65 to '67 Corvette camshaft. But with more lift and duration on the exhaust side, it does a better job of clearing exhaust from the combustion chamber. We also decreased duration and lift ever so slightly on the intake side to build more cylinder pressure. The result is a camshaft that makes great torque and horsepower with the 350 HO's 9.1 to 1 compression ratio.


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Twystd1
post Oct 24 2006, 05:02 PM
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Saturday is Ron's BBQ and swap meet. So thats out.

Sunday is a possibility.

C
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914-8
post Oct 25 2006, 12:31 PM
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I could meet you guys in Costa Mesa or Garden Grove (pref. CM) on Sunday, but it would have to be in the morning, the earlier the better. I can bring my cut valve cover. I think we need the clips, though, to keep the oil down, it was messy even with the cut valve cover.

No roller rockers for me, don't know what kind of lifters, and have no idea what "stud girdles" are (although that sounds like kind of an oxymoron!).

Let me know if you guys really wanna do it.
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Brad Roberts
post Oct 25 2006, 12:51 PM
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Tom,

I see 911 sport mounts and possibly NO washers or factory 914 safety catches on top of them. You cant run them without something on top of the bolt. It will pull through and leave the tranny dragging and your dizzy cap snapped off.

I'm surprised you went down the cheap radiator path (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



B
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lybones
post Oct 25 2006, 02:54 PM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Oct 25 2006, 11:51 AM) *

Tom,

I see 911 sport mounts and possibly NO washers or factory 914 safety catches on top of them. You cant run them without something on top of the bolt. It will pull through and leave the tranny dragging and your dizzy cap snapped off.

I'm surprised you went down the cheap radiator path (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)



B



I'm glad you brought up the 911 sport mounts. I have been concerned about my tranny being mounted correctly ( for v8 conversions). The tranny seems to be much higher which causes the motor to seem to rake down forward more than I would like and the dizzy just looks a little too high up. Is this because of the 911 sport mounts? What should I do?

As for the radiator setup. It was definately cheap (130.00 for the radiator and 100.00 for the Spal fan), but it's all aluminum and holds the temp below 190. This was the setup I used for my previous rotory conversion. For now, I'm satisfied with the setup.
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lybones
post Oct 25 2006, 02:58 PM
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QUOTE(914-8 @ Oct 25 2006, 11:31 AM) *

I could meet you guys in Costa Mesa or Garden Grove (pref. CM) on Sunday, but it would have to be in the morning, the earlier the better. I can bring my cut valve cover. I think we need the clips, though, to keep the oil down, it was messy even with the cut valve cover.

No roller rockers for me, don't know what kind of lifters, and have no idea what "stud girdles" are (although that sounds like kind of an oxymoron!).

Let me know if you guys really wanna do it.


I don't think I should be driving the car in its condition unless I can fix the tranny problem, so we can do it at my place or I can try to figure out getting the car wherever.

In either case I'm in.
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Mike D.
post Oct 25 2006, 05:34 PM
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OK, It runs now, and pretty good too!
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QUOTE(Twystd1 @ Oct 24 2006, 04:02 PM) *

Saturday is Ron's BBQ and swap meet. So thats out.

Sunday is a possibility.

C


SUNDAY is Rons Swap. so you can fix it on Sat. and bring in to the swap Sunday Oct. 29th. and then you can adjust them again so we can all see how it is done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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914-8
post Oct 25 2006, 07:00 PM
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Saturday is even better for me.
I can meet at your house in GG, if that's ok with Clayton.
The earlier in the morning, the better for me.
You can see how my V8 and trans are mounted, if that would help with your issue.
Let me know, either here or by PM, if you guys want to do it.
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lybones
post Oct 25 2006, 07:08 PM
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QUOTE(914-8 @ Oct 25 2006, 06:00 PM) *

Saturday is even better for me.
I can meet at your house in GG, if that's ok with Clayton.
The earlier in the morning, the better for me.
You can see how my V8 and trans are mounted, if that would help with your issue.
Let me know, either here or by PM, if you guys want to do it.



Saturday sounds good, I will PM you guys.
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Twystd1
post Oct 25 2006, 07:37 PM
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I'm in for Saturday...

Where and what time?

C
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