D - Jetronic female connector Options

[Superhawk996]

2012 BMW ABS module - safety component

Gets a hard back shell due to tight bend radius on a large bundle of wires that could otherwise not make that bend without stressing the pins.

[Superhawk996]

1992 Mazda B2600 - 178k miles

Distributor - no work, no go. You can be sure the Japanese would have used a more robust connector if it was necessary.

[Superhawk996]

2009 Jeep Wranger. 90k miles.

Again - plastic cap used over alternator B+ for short protection



Lots of connectors including large multipin that use standard weather pack, Deutche type connectors.

These are all under hood but the same connectors are also used in the underbody in wet locations subject to water fording requirements

[Superhawk996]

These are just 4 random OEMs that happen to be sitting around. I’ll challenge anyone to go take a look under hood at their daily driver and see what is under hood and then ask yourself, how many failures have you had that were related to these types of automotive connectors.

Will there be someone that has had a failure? Without a doubt. However, there are in excess of 15 million cars sold annually with these types of connectors. A minuscule failure of 1 per 10,000 cars would be a HUGE issue that the industry would be forced to address. Fortunately the failure rate of these connectors is well below that level.

It used to be part of my day job to pour over 3rd party reliability data (JD power, Consumer Reports, other OEM warranty data) and competitive teardowns. What I can tell you is that wiring connector failure doesn’t even come into the top twenty problems.

Cut wiring due to improper repairs - yeah that happens. What rarely happens is having a connector fail of its own accord due to improper strain relief, excessive vibration causing wire fatigue, pin pullout, thermal degradation, etc.

[Superhawk996]

@jeffbowlsby

No offense is meant by this post. I think the wiring you do and the service you provide to the community is unparalleled.

My only intent is to provide more background on how much development has gone into improving the degree of wiring reliability since our beloved 914s were built.

You do an awesome job of keeping these archaic cars on the road. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) In fact I wish more people would just break down and buy your harnesses. At this stage in their lifecycle, many 914s are so unreliable due to the state of their wiring and your harness work fixes that major problem.

[JeffBowlsby]

It’s all good…your insight is valued here by all, including me. We all want these cars to last for generations into the future and when new solutions to the problems we encounter are better, they are worth considering. We can only consider them if we are aware of them.

[FlacaProductions]

Agreed - and it's appreciated all the time that is taken to answer some of these questions. The 123 connection is important - i mean..aren't they all? But some are more equal than others.

I've already had one of these two friction-only connections come undone on its own but that was right after initial installation before I buttoned it all up. Still - I need a permanent solution. Input here is great.

[ClayPerrine]

Seems to be LOTS of replies to this thread, but no one seems to see the forest for the trees.

That connector is on the old D-Jet trigger points. It would seem that salvaging the connector off a junk set of trigger points would be a simple solution.

Or am I missing something here?????

[FlacaProductions]

Correct - but it's molded funny, no? Strange angle...

[Superhawk996]

Seems to be LOTS of replies to this thread, but no one seems to see the forest for the trees.

That connector is on the old D-Jet trigger points. It would seem that salvaging the connector off a junk set of trigger points would be a simple solution.

Or am I missing something here?????

Seems reasonable . . . But

Pulling this connector off a set of triggger points, soldering 123 dizzy leads to it, and then having non-locking spade connections and rubber boot on this isn’t going to be anywhere near as robust as converting to a Deutche connector.

[ClayPerrine]

Seems to be LOTS of replies to this thread, but no one seems to see the forest for the trees.

That connector is on the old D-Jet trigger points. It would seem that salvaging the connector off a junk set of trigger points would be a simple solution.

Or am I missing something here?????

Seems reasonable . . . But

Pulling this connector off a set of triggger points, soldering 123 dizzy leads to it, and then having non-locking spade connections and rubber boot on this isn’t going to be anywhere near as robust as converting to a Deutche connector.

I don't have a 123 distributor, but I could see taking it apart and adding this to the side of it instead of just having wires come out of it.

[FlacaProductions]

Sent a note to these folks - we'll see if they have a solution
https://www.djetparts.com/?lang=en

[Superhawk996]

I don't have a 123 distributor, but I could see taking it apart and adding this to the side of it instead of just having wires come out of it.

Honestly that isn’t a terrible idea . . . It’s sort of a shame how crude the 123 is with respect to how the wires exit the dizzy body.

Given 123’s aren’t cheap it would be wonderful to see them with a OEM style connection for those that don’t want to cut up their OEM wiring to use the 123. This would be true for other high end OEMs they support (jaguar, Aston, etc). I do have sympathy for them with respect to how much complexity this would add for them.

Not having one myself to look at, I’ve got to imagine it would be some careful mill work to even have the potential of being a modification that would work. And that’s assuming there is space inside and away from the electronics.

Nothing is ever easy!

[FlacaProductions]

Just got this reply from d-jetparts (info@repro-parts.de)
====
Good morning Brian,

I am sorry, but I do not have any items to fit your idea.
Just got the „female“ plug in store.
I suggest a 3D printed part for this with inglued contacts.?!
Or do you want to buy a hundreds of these, so I could make a mould for this and start production?

Greetings.

Mit den besten Grüßen / best regards
Robert Eissler

[Superhawk996]

Or do you want to buy a hundreds of these, so I could make a mould for this and start production?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Forward to the 123 dizzy folks

[JeffBowlsby]

I am onto a possible solution, will post again when I have details.

[FlacaProductions]

Very good, Jeff.
I just wonder what the dozens and dozens of people who have gotten these thru the multiple group buys here have done about this connection. Maybe just jamming them in the F connector is good enough and this is much ado about nothing. Just seems to me that it's yet another important connection (aren't they all, really?) that deserves better.

[JeffBowlsby]

OK, I have found some factory parts that I think will work for this, adding some heat shrink to the exposed wires on the 123.

No modification needed to the FI harness or its connector, it will be plug N play.

Parts ordered, will post photos of the mock-up assembly when they arrive in about a week.

[JeffBowlsby]

This has been an issue for some time.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...8153&st=124

[JeffBowlsby]

The parts I ordered arrived, see mockup below.

The new housing and male wire terminals are standard items and available.

The 3-pole male housing on all D-Jet FI harnesses for the trigger points, simply inserts into this new female housing with its retention clips, which will attach to the 123. The boot on the FI harness slips over the mating joint to make a relatively weathertight connection. Plug N Play.

I figure the 2 wires on the 123 could be individually wrapped with heat shrink for 2 inches where they enter the new housing on the side of the connection facing the 123, and then combined into a slightly larger single casing piece for the few inches the branch needs to get back into the 123. This casing provides protection from heat, fluids and added strain relief (in addition to the strain relief located at the terminals).

The metal fitting on the 123 where the two wires emanate, appears to be a compression fitting with a rubber gasket around the wires but someone please confirm. If that's true it may be possible to insert the outer casing under this compression nut (or possibly on the outside of it with a heat shrink collar) for a secure connection. To minimize fracturing this short branch at the compression fitting, maybe the branch gets wrapped in an outer stainless steel braided sleeve to up under that compression nut (or over it with a heat shrink collar) to make it more durable.

Comments?