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> 914 GT 3.6 Ferrari Build, - Mechanicals coming along, electronics soon!
Shivers
post Sep 29 2024, 10:08 AM
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I especially enjoyed the water pump delete plate. I always wondered who to talk to about
this, did a screen shot of their info while watching the video . My last experience with a machinist was
far from stellar. The “trough” was pretty cool too.
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technicalninja
post Sep 29 2024, 10:28 AM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Sep 29 2024, 09:26 AM) *

I look forward to the weekend videos with my coffee. Outstanding craftsmanship Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

When I watch wrenching videos, I never watch the whole thing.

Most folks talk too much, waste time...

Chris's vids are the EXCEPTION!

I watch the whole thing!

What is REALLY weird is that a 20-minute vid seems to only take 5 minutes.

By the time he says "wrap up" I'm disappointed.

How could that have been 20 minutes?

Felt like 5...

WANT MORE!!!!!

Nice work, nice videos!
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tygaboy
post Oct 5 2024, 07:20 AM
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This week was a bit of a challenge with much of my time spent trying to get the Mini finished, so not much to see in this episode. But hey, they can't all be Oscar-worthy! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkrjI5XdKlc
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TheRuttmeister
post Oct 5 2024, 02:01 PM
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No bonus video with the work on the mini?!

Inspiring work as usual!
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Cairo94507
post Oct 6 2024, 12:08 PM
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Maybe Chris is dropping a 3.6 in the Mini.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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tygaboy
post Oct 6 2024, 12:33 PM
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@Cairo94507 @TheRuttmeister Cool as the Mini is, let me just say: SPOILER ALERT! Because once the Mini is gone, a VERY special car will be arriving At The Red Barn for some minor fab work. I plan to cover it in its own episode (assuming the owner is OK with that) but for now, I'll leave you with this teaser shot.
Details to follow... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)


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SirAndy
post Oct 6 2024, 12:44 PM
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QUOTE(tygaboy @ Oct 6 2024, 11:33 AM) *
Details to follow... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
We already know, you're going to put a Porsche engine into it.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)


Now if you really want to piss off some people, you get 3 x 2.0L T4 engines, weld them together at the crank and upgrade that thing to a flat 12 6.0L.
I would personally donate money/time to see that come to life.
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willieg
post Oct 6 2024, 01:15 PM
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OT: Following up on @sirandy ’s thread, if you want to see some wild and crazy Frankenstein engines, go to YouTube and type in “Allen Millyard Kawasaki”. Incredible engineering and machinery using a hacksaw. You have to see it to believe it.
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JmuRiz
post Oct 6 2024, 02:38 PM
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Made me think of Millyard too (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I want to send my two 90cc Ducati 2-stokes and have him make me a 180cc v-twin
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napasteve
post Oct 6 2024, 05:20 PM
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LS in a GTO??? WHAAAAAAT??? OMG??? OMG!!!
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nivekdodge
post Oct 6 2024, 06:38 PM
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350 Facebook t shirt ads, and I missed Chris'??????


Kevin
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tygaboy
post Oct 7 2024, 05:48 PM
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The first of the goodies from SendCutSend are here. @Shivers They're real and they're spectacular!
The lower piece is .5" plate, upper is .125", annodized, with threaded inserts. $81.60 with tax and shipping. As you'll hear in this weekend's video: "5 Stars for SendCutSend!"

Martin welded on the 1.25" hose end so next it's flycut the rear face to ensure its flat after welding then cut the groove for the O-ring that seals between this plate and the block.
I'm going to countersink all the bolt holes and run socket-head allens, too. Style points, baby! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)


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Shivers
post Oct 7 2024, 06:44 PM
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@tygaboy

Yeah, those came out real nice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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FL000
post Oct 8 2024, 07:27 PM
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I’m going to be using SendCutSend soon to make new brackets for my alternator and a/c compressor. Did you have to learn new software or were you able to use the same used for your plasma table?
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tygaboy
post Oct 8 2024, 09:07 PM
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QUOTE(FL000 @ Oct 8 2024, 06:27 PM) *

I’m going to be using SendCutSend soon to make new brackets for my alternator and a/c compressor. Did you have to learn new software or were you able to use the same used for your plasma table?

@FL000 Josh - I used the same software (QCAD). All you need to do is upload a dxf, step or eps file. Then select the material and any other stuff you want done and you get an instant quote. It's pretty awesome.
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jd74914
post Oct 10 2024, 06:03 AM
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SendCutSend is awesome all around. And those parts look great!

Pro-tip: If you ever need cool engraved dash, switch, etc. panels Front Panel Express is possibly even more awesome. We use them for all kinds of cool stuff [that I can't show unfortunately] at work.
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tygaboy
post Oct 12 2024, 08:57 AM
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Check out the cool SendCutSend goodies, along with some other build progress:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAEUbqu0xMY
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technicalninja
post Oct 12 2024, 12:03 PM
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I have a suggestion for your belt drive.

Don't overlook the availability of a "SF" belt for the alternator.

That pully looked like a non-adjustable idler.

Many new cars have changed to "stretch to fit" belts thus eliminating the spring-loaded tensioner.

They can be a PIA to install!

They ARE reliable...

I'd expect 100K service, even on a high RPM set up.

You would have to experiment on sizing but if you could find the right length, the belt drive could be finished without much fabrication.

2001-20011 V8 GM trucks/SUVs had a horrible AC belt tensioner (multiple TSBs regarding resonance). I used to modify originals to make them into a manually adjustable tensioner. Took about an hour, 7/16-wheel stud, and some friction washers.
Making them "fixed" solved ALL of the resonance issues.

GM used SF belts in the late model trucks, they fit the early trucks FINE!
I haven't modded a stock tensioner since!
I just chuck them in the trash now.
So much easier...
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tygaboy
post Oct 12 2024, 06:08 PM
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QUOTE(technicalninja @ Oct 12 2024, 11:03 AM) *

I have a suggestion for your belt drive.
Don't overlook the availability of a "SF" belt for the alternator.
That pully looked like a non-adjustable idler.


@technicalninja - Rick - That's an adjustable idler. In fact, like the cam belts, to adjust it, I have to download an app from Gates that measures the frequency when one "plucks" the belts to get it tuned properly. An approach that's both "Cool!" and "Are you serious?" at the same time. The factory belt runs the alternator and the water pump, which I'm deleting, so I'll have to measure up and order a custom length belt. Well of course I will... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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technicalninja
post Oct 12 2024, 07:10 PM
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That looked like a fixed idler, sorry!

On a serp the "safe" way is to be able to twist the belt 90 degrees with hand strength alone on its largest span between two pullies.

As you are only driving an alternator and both the alternator and the crank pully have a large amount of contact with the belt you can go lower tension.

Remarkably loose will probably work fine.

I'd cheat it to the loose side of things. Too loose means you get to re-adjust the belt, too tight means you get to replace the alternator or its bearings...

No way would I trust an audible check for belt tightness.

As for timing belts I have adjusted by ear before...

Some Chryslers (2.2L and variants) had a big access plug for the tensioner. You could remove it and place the adjuster tool on the tensioner. Get it running (without the serp belts on it) and loosen lock bolt. Tighten tension until belt noise was evident and back off till it disappeared.
Only way to do those IMO!
They were non-interference engines, so a screw up was not catastrophic.

As a serp starts getting loose, you WILL hear it chirp/squeal on start-up first.
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