OT: Ceramic paint protection system coatings, First hand experience… Options

[draganc]

Hi folks!

What’s the community’s point of view on ceramic coatings vs
old school traditional wax-on-wax-off?

I used a ceramic product from a Florida based company years
ago, with great results but forgot the name, and are looking
for today’s miracle product.

Let the discussion games begin!

[maf914]

I've been wondering about ceramic polish as well. I hope someone with experience will comment.

[mb911]

I've been wondering about ceramic polish as well. I hope someone with experience will comment.

This is original paint. Paint correction, waxed and then ceramic. There really was no difference in the finish. I will tell you that ceramic coatings have been around for years and silijet is one of the 1st out there and it came from the aviation world many years before the auto industry picked it up. It really just lasts longer its not better IMHO besides its longevity of protection.

[Jamie]

I've been wondering about ceramic polish as well. I hope someone with experience will comment.

We just had a concours prep workshop with PCA senior judge Pat Yanahan last Friday, and he said most of the ceramic coatings are snake oil, he recommended a new version of Turtle Wax. I have had Mistress and my Cayman professionally paint corrected and ceramic coated, so don't have any long term experience with the results, but they both look like new paint!.

[VaccaRabite]

I had my challenger coated last year. I'm only moderately impressed with it. Had a 5 year coating put on. I expected more water beading and blowing off. It does get really shiny though.

Zach

[windforfun]

I'm too old school for the stuff. Wax is best IMO.

[mb911]

I've been wondering about ceramic polish as well. I hope someone with experience will comment.

We just had a concours prep workshop with PCA senior judge Pat Yanahan last Friday, and he said most of the ceramic coatings are snake oil, he recommended a new version of Turtle Wax. I have had Mistress and my Cayman professionally paint corrected and ceramic coated, so don't have any long term experience with the results, but they both look like new paint!.

Yup wax is my recommendation

[Jett]

+1 Wax.

It is important to use the right waxes for the paint and condition.

For example. Highly oxidized single stage paint requires specific waxes and cleaning techniques, whereas base coat / clear coat requires different wax and technique.

For general maintenance of new BCCC, we use Meguiar’s #7 followed by Wolfgang Fuzion… expensive but a little goes a long way, and make sure to buy on sale

[targa72e]

I purchased a used Audi that had been ceramic coated on the body and wheels. It was pretty impressive. Car was parked outside while owned it (Porsche get to live in the garage) a little rain of snow would clean it to look like new with now involvement by me. A friend did a test with coating two wheels on one side of the car, difference was night and day, simple spay made wheels look like new ( I had the same experience with my Audi). If the car is a garage queen then wax may be just as good, if your car is a outside car definitely makes a big difference.

john

[bbrock]

I applied CQuartz UK 3.0 ceramic coating to my car about a month ago. I can't speak to long term results but it is supposed to last for two years. A couple days after applying it, I drove the car on a 700 mile round trip and came back with the car absolutely plastered with bug guts. I parked it outside in the rain and after an hour, it rinsed perfectly clean. All I had to do was wipe it down with a microfiber drying towel. After a month, water still beads up and rolls off like a very fresh coat of wax. It does not shed dust as well as I had hoped. If it truly lasts two years, I will keep using it because I don't like to spend a lot of time fussing with the car.

I did have one weird thing with the ceramic coating though. I applied the coating on top of Xpel PPF on the hood and the first time I drove the car on a hot day, could see the wipe pattern of the applicator that showed as bronze streaks. I was at a gas station and pointed it to some people who were admiring the car and they looked at me like I was crazy. It was only on the hood and not on other panels with PPF or any without PPF. The marks disappeared in the shade or when the metal was cool. I finally figured out that I could only see the marks when I was wearing polarizing sun glasses. Weird. The effect seems to have faded as I was able to barely see them the last time I had the car out on a hot day.

[mgarrison]

I tried some stuff called The Last Coat. Was recommended by Car & Driver/Road & Track I think. Super easy to apply compared to wax! I try and recoat about every six months. Water beads up great, but that's a double-edged sword as they seem to water spot easily/quickly - Keep in mind I'm in PHX, AZ area so HOT & DRY!

The TLC stuff really seems to work great on the black plastic fenders on my wife's Jeep Wrangler. And on the black fiberglass top. They look deep black, and bead water great. Black mirrors and door handles on my Ford Raptor too - that's where the stuff really works!

I believe I'll stick with the TLC because of how quick & easy it is to apply. I'm more likely to do it every six months than wax because of that ease. From what I've read it's not really "ceramic" because it comes in a plastic bottle. The solvents for real "ceramic" coatings would dissolve plastic (based on what I read).

[slivel]

I have ceramic coating on all of my cars.

Here is my 914 with paint correction and professionally applied Ceramic Pro coating.

[Shackleford]

Ceramic coating after good paint prep is amazing. Lasts years. Stuff just washes off. The shine is incredible. Don’t believe the haters that say wax is best. It’s not…Unless you like the process of waxing your car every 6 weeks or you need like a extra special vibe for a car show. Then have fun with your wax. But if you want shine and paint protection that lasts, ceramic coating is the jam. Watch the long term water beading videos on Chicago Auto Pros you tube channel. Stuff lasts!! Beads water and makes it easier to clean.

[brant]

does anyone have a brand recommendation that is for at home use?
might be worth a try on my beater

[slivel]

does anyone have a brand recommendation that is for at home use?
might be worth a try on my beater

I haven't used this brand but my dent removal guy likes Kamikaze for home use. From years of using a local pro shop and talking with them about ceramic coatings, my understanding is that prep is all important. Thorough washing then claying the paint before application of the coating is vital. If you already have waxed your car then the wax must be removed.

This is my 240Z with paint correction and Ceramic Pro.

[Shackleford]

does anyone have a brand recommendation that is for at home use?
might be worth a try on my beater

For all these ceramic type coatings paint prep is key. It does not hide flaws. So you have to polish first or have good paint. Also, all old wax and contaminants should be removed.

That said there are a ton of them but I found the AMMO NYC stuff very easy to apply. But I’m sure with some googling you could find cheaper stuff.

[BENBRO02]

I believe there was an article in Panorama a few months back that rated and ranked ceramic coatings. I coated 4 of my cars about a year ago and will never wax again.

[914_teener]

I had my Macan done...claybarred and then Ceramic Pro.

Outstanding luster and lasts longer. Bug spatter is much easier to remove.

I'm a believer after using wax for many years.

[bbrock]

does anyone have a brand recommendation that is for at home use?
might be worth a try on my beater

I went with the CQuartz mentioned above after reading/seeing quite a few recommendation for it for DIY because it is less fussy about cure times than others. It struck a good balance between durability, ease of use, and price for me. I got the impression that the more durable products are also more fussy about application and, of course, more expensive.

I agree that prep is important. I spent two days prepping my car. Even after clay bar, you may need to polish, and rinse, degrease with dilute isopropyl, rinse again. There is plenty of good info on how to prep on youtube and the rest of the interwebs. Having a clean shop is also important. That was a challenge for me but I muscled through. It was more an issue with PPF application than the ceramic coating though.

[JamesM]

+1 Wax.

It is important to use the right waxes for the paint and condition.

For example. Highly oxidized single stage paint requires specific waxes and cleaning techniques, whereas base coat / clear coat requires different wax and technique.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

While some of the new ceramic and graphene waxes are super convenient and work great on base/clear paint (and I do use them on my daily drivers) with my older single stage painted vehicles I find the best results with compound/polish and pure carnauba wax. I have tried various newer products on my single stage cars with the hope of possibly saving me some effort but always wind up having to go old school on the old school paint to make it look its best.