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> Drex 914, Iowa 914
Drex
post Apr 1 2023, 05:21 AM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.surfacezero.com-27003-1680348084.1.jpg)

I have not saved the harness yet
Are they worth saving?

Also, here is the rear trunk floor
Look good enough to save?

The trailing arms look awful rusty
Is this just appearance and would
they sand blast and powder coat ok?

Finally, I'm having a heck of a time
getting to, and removing the rear
brake calipers

thanks

Drex
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JeffBowlsby
post Apr 1 2023, 08:19 AM
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914 Wiring Harnesses
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If the harness wiring is not cut or hardened it can be reused. Even if it has a few cut wires it can be repaired. If you remove, no need to cut anything especially where pulling it through the engine bay firewall, that cut destroys the harness. You will need to just remove the plastic connector housings at the relay board 14 pin connector, fuel pump connector and headlight connectors. Pretty simple, just compress the wire terminal tangs and pull the terminals out of the housings.

You have a 71 - which version of the chassis harness do you have early or late? The difference is best seen at the steering column connector - is it 12 pin or 14 pin?
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Drex
post Apr 1 2023, 02:31 PM
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On parts car:

window SN is 41712915293

front door jam is 2899508

paint code is L 60 E (so Irish Green)

rear door jam is 07/71 4712915293 very hard to read (I suspect it is the same as the window SN)

engine number not found yet

Drex
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SKL1
post Apr 1 2023, 02:34 PM
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Unless they're bent the rear trailing arms would probably clean up ok with blasting etc. With new bushings and bearing I'd bet they would be usable.
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Drex
post Apr 1 2023, 03:28 PM
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Jeff, is this the pin connector your talking about
I only count 13 pins

Drex
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JeffBowlsby
post Apr 1 2023, 06:52 PM
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Thanks Drex! You have the late-1971 chassis harness, lucky you! The connector is a 14 pin connector but it correctly has only 13 pins. Willl PM you.
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krazykonrad
post Apr 2 2023, 10:43 AM
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QUOTE(Drex @ Mar 31 2023, 04:55 PM) *


Is this where the SN is supposed to located?
Is it there but I can't see it?
I think I saw somewhere
where it is located on the flat where the spark plugs are

Drex


The engine number should be just in front of the oil fill "tower." Its on the flat, horizontal lip at the front of the "tower's" base.
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Montreal914
post Apr 2 2023, 10:50 AM
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Maybe:
- Muffler heat shield that we see in your upside down picture if in salvageable state.
- Center section of the firewall might be useful to someone with a six conversion to make an access panel.

Edit:
I know I could use this fender bracket (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Attached Image
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Drex
post Apr 3 2023, 06:51 PM
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(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.surfacezero.com-27003-1680569461.1.jpg)

Removed the complete harness today
It's a little beat up in areas
but mostly intact

Pushed a lot of wires thru tiny holes!!

Drex
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Drex
post Apr 6 2023, 10:42 AM
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Well...
The remaining carcass of my parts 914
Went to the dump today
400 lbs

Ready to start in on the real project

Drex
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Drex
post Apr 10 2023, 09:23 PM
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I have several parts for sell
but as a newbie
have no clue what to ask for them

What's the best way to research
and find out what a specific part is worth?

Thanks

Drex
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r_towle
post Apr 10 2023, 11:05 PM
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Lol,
I’m so lazy and this thread has 16 pages
1st thread….look I bought a project car
Last page, I’m cutting up the chassis and scrapping it out.

We have all done this.
Keep all the good parts for the next one.
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Montreal914
post Apr 11 2023, 08:44 AM
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QUOTE(Drex @ Apr 6 2023, 09:42 AM) *

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.surfacezero.com-27003-1680799321.1.jpg)



That is a really sad picture to see these days... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

------

As for part prices, I would check the classified. Or even simpler, google : "Connecting rods for sale 914World" and old adds will pop up.

I typically go cheap so the past move fast. GLWTS! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Drex
post Apr 11 2023, 06:52 PM
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Believe me, I agonized long and hard over scrapping this 914 parts car

As a WWII Jeep restorer
I have gone to great lengths to save basket cases as they are so rare;
they say there are only about 25,000 - 30,000 left in the world.

All these jeeps were loaded on aircraft carriers and dumped into ocean!!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.surfacezero.com-27003-1681260722.1.jpg)
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Superhawk996
post Apr 11 2023, 06:55 PM
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QUOTE(Drex @ Apr 11 2023, 07:52 PM) *

All these jeeps were loaded on aircraft carriers and dumped into ocean!!

It was the environmentally conscious thing to do. Providing homes for the fishies and essentially making an artificial reef. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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Drex
post Apr 26 2023, 01:56 PM
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Will be replacing all fuel lines I.N.F.
Is it a good idea to buy the complete set from Tangerine
which includes a fuel pump?
or buy stock SS and hose, bend and cut it to length on my own?

which pump would you recommend, 2 or 3 port?
and where to locate it, up front? I live in Iowa
so, not too hot here

thanks all for advise
trying to avoid dumb Q's
still deciding where I'll put
the lock for the '75 rear door Pinto

Drex
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vintagethunder
post Apr 27 2023, 10:36 AM
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Before there were ready made SS lines, people did bend their own. There are some articles out there on the web. Someone mentioned they bent their own and got the swelled part on the ends done at a hydraulics shop.

When I was looking last year, Pelican were the only place not selling them as a full set. But after I ordered they didn't actually have the engine compartment set, and hinted they may never get them again.

As for fuel pumps, I don't recall reading either being more resistant to vapor lock. I can tell you friends in Iowa back in the day did battle it. The 2 port that is popular is available relatively cheaply. I'm going to use my three port pump as long as it works.

As for the flexible line, there are diagrams that show how long each piece should be and where they go. Use SAE 30R9 rated fuel hose and correct FI hose clamps. 5/16" works for 8mm.

To avoid vapor lock most move the fuel pump and filter to the front, under the fuel tank by the steering rack, but some cured it simply by moving it from the right side to the firewall away from the most intense heat, and tied the long flexible fuel line up top so it didn't lay across the engine. That is what I'm going to do.
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SKL1
post Apr 27 2023, 03:59 PM
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Dave, I would mount the fuel pump up front. I lived in Iowa for over 65 years, a lot of that with at least one of my 914's and I can tell you I had fuel pump issues in the original location!
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Drex
post Apr 30 2023, 04:27 AM
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I'm planning to have the fuel tank boiled out
Will this effect the original paint?

I read on one thread that the paint can be duplicated with
Rust-Oleum Flat Black paint code 7776

Drex
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FlacaProductions
post Apr 30 2023, 07:27 AM
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QUOTE(SKL1 @ Apr 27 2023, 02:59 PM) *

Dave, I would mount the fuel pump up front. I lived in Iowa for over 65 years, a lot of that with at least one of my 914's and I can tell you I had fuel pump issues in the original location!


I would echo this - I lived in Iowa with a 914 for 10 years and the only real probably I had was involving vapor lock in the summers....
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