123 ignition pros -cons ? Options

[nivekdodge]

do we have a thread on tuning the bluetooth one? (for dummies of course) asking for a freind

Kevin

[iankarr]

Jake Raby taught me a simple method. First, follow the directions for installation, which will get you to a point where the car runs. Set a curve point for 8 degrees @ 1K RPM, a point for 27 degrees @ 3000 rpm and a point for 27 degrees at 5K. Load that curve into the 123 distributor. Then hook up a timing light, cap off the vac advance and rev the engine to 3K RPM. I like to aim at the notch on the flywheel. Rotate the 123 until you’re showing 27 degrees BTDC @3K and then lock the unit down. The app and dizzy are now synched and you’ve approximated a simple stock curve. Now the fun begins. Drive around and see if there are any flat spots in acceleration. Make note of the rpm’s where the power seems to dip. Add points there to fine tune the advance. You’ll probably need a little more advance a little earlier. You may also need to tweak your idle advance a bit until it runs smoothly. Of course the condition of your engine, altitude and a bunch of other factors come into play. I live at 6,000 feet and my 2056 loves 10 degrees @ 1K and 30 degrees at 3,500, with a bunch of unevenly spaced points along the way.

I gotta make a video on this.

[kroelofsen]

Jake Raby taught me a simple method. First, follow the directions for installation, which will get you to a point where the car runs. Set a curve point for 8 degrees @ 1K RPM, a point for 27 degrees @ 3000 rpm and a point for 27 degrees at 5K. Load that curve into the 123 distributor. Then hook up a timing light, cap off the vac advance and rev the engine to 3K RPM. I like to aim at the notch on the flywheel. Rotate the 123 until you’re showing 27 degrees BTDC @3K and then lock the unit down. The app and dizzy are now synched and you’ve approximated a simple stock curve. Now the fun begins. Drive around and see if there are any flat spots in acceleration. Make note of the rpm’s where the power seems to dip. Add points there to fine tune the advance. You’ll probably need a little more advance a little earlier. You may also need to tweak your idle advance a bit until it runs smoothly. Of course the condition of your engine, altitude and a bunch of other factors come into play. I live at 6,000 feet and my 2056 loves 10 degrees @ 1K and 30 degrees at 3,500, with a bunch of unevenly spaced points along the way.

I gotta make a video on this.

Video please …. Loved your previous videos on the 914.

[nivekdodge]

Jake Raby taught me a simple method. First, follow the directions for installation, which will get you to a point where the car runs. Set a curve point for 8 degrees @ 1K RPM, a point for 27 degrees @ 3000 rpm and a point for 27 degrees at 5K. Load that curve into the 123 distributor. Then hook up a timing light, cap off the vac advance and rev the engine to 3K RPM. I like to aim at the notch on the flywheel. Rotate the 123 until you’re showing 27 degrees BTDC @3K and then lock the unit down. The app and dizzy are now synched and you’ve approximated a simple stock curve. Now the fun begins. Drive around and see if there are any flat spots in acceleration. Make note of the rpm’s where the power seems to dip. Add points there to fine tune the advance. You’ll probably need a little more advance a little earlier. You may also need to tweak your idle advance a bit until it runs smoothly. Of course the condition of your engine, altitude and a bunch of other factors come into play. I live at 6,000 feet and my 2056 loves 10 degrees @ 1K and 30 degrees at 3,500, with a bunch of unevenly spaced points along the way.

I gotta make a video on this.

Thanks Ian

Kevin

[FlacaProductions]

Great info - thanks, Ian

[fiacra]

Jake Raby taught me a simple method. First, follow the directions for installation, which will get you to a point where the car runs. Set a curve point for 8 degrees @ 1K RPM, a point for 27 degrees @ 3000 rpm and a point for 27 degrees at 5K. Load that curve into the 123 distributor. Then hook up a timing light, cap off the vac advance and rev the engine to 3K RPM. I like to aim at the notch on the flywheel. Rotate the 123 until you’re showing 27 degrees BTDC @3K and then lock the unit down. The app and dizzy are now synched and you’ve approximated a simple stock curve. Now the fun begins. Drive around and see if there are any flat spots in acceleration. Make note of the rpm’s where the power seems to dip. Add points there to fine tune the advance. You’ll probably need a little more advance a little earlier. You may also need to tweak your idle advance a bit until it runs smoothly. Of course the condition of your engine, altitude and a bunch of other factors come into play. I live at 6,000 feet and my 2056 loves 10 degrees @ 1K and 30 degrees at 3,500, with a bunch of unevenly spaced points along the way.

I gotta make a video on this.

Yes, please do. I just ordered two of the bluetooth units, one for my 1.8 L-Jet and another for my 2.0 D-Jet. I'm a bit uncertain about how to tune these as well as the underlying thinking, so it was a tough decision to not just buy units that had preset curves. However, sometimes you have to push yourself to learn new things so I took the plunge. A video would be helpful.

[Lockwodo]

This is how I programmed the 123 centrifugal curve on my '74 2.0, and it seems to work great:



I've experimented a bit with the MAP curve to add a little vacuum advance under load, but haven't figured it out yet, so for now am just running the centrifugal curve. Would be interested in hearing from anyone who is using the MAP curve successfully.

[VaccaRabite]

This is how I programmed the 123 centrifugal curve on my '74 2.0, and it seems to work great:



I've experimented a bit with the MAP curve to add a little vacuum advance under load, but haven't figured it out yet, so for now am just running the centrifugal curve. Would be interested in hearing from anyone who is using the MAP curve successfully.

@lockwodo
I bet it would work even better if you advanced it to about 8* at 1000. That will give you a little more bite as you are getting off idle.

Zach

[Lockwodo]

This is how I programmed the 123 centrifugal curve on my '74 2.0, and it seems to work great:



I've experimented a bit with the MAP curve to add a little vacuum advance under load, but haven't figured it out yet, so for now am just running the centrifugal curve. Would be interested in hearing from anyone who is using the MAP curve successfully.

@lockwodo
I bet it would work even better if you advanced it to about 8* at 1000. That will give you a little more bite as you are getting off idle.

Zach

Thanks Zach, I'll try that!

Doug

[914_teener]

do we have a thread on tuning the bluetooth one? (for dummies of course) asking for a freind

Kevin

There are three different dizzy from them for basically three combo induction types.

B-tooth w/o vac advance-carbs.

B-tooth with MAP vac for L-Jet.

A switched or preset stock curve with vac advance for D-jet

For all you need to set the static timing first...so it matter which one you have.

The instructions are pretty comprehensive and the support is great in my experience. FWIW.