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> Sale Pending - My purchase of 9140431482, Just facts; no spin or opinion
sixnotfour
post Feb 17 2024, 07:53 PM
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I bought a 914 from one of the posters on this thread with a hellhole full of bondo... Long time ago.. well known 914 on world.. A small amount of money bfore its fame ..never the less .. Spilt Milk..
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Rufus
post Feb 20 2024, 11:32 AM
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Firewall after 30 seconds of wire brushing by hand …


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mate914
post Feb 20 2024, 11:38 AM
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QUOTE(Rufus @ Feb 20 2024, 12:32 PM) *

Firewall after 30 seconds of wire brushing by hand …

How does the firewall look in the area right behind the passenger seat? Can we see a picture of that spot? That is usually the spot that’s worst.
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Rufus
post Feb 20 2024, 11:49 AM
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Other side


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Rufus
post Feb 20 2024, 11:54 AM
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Firewall behind driver’s seat


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Rufus
post Feb 20 2024, 03:44 PM
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Again after 30 seconds of wire brushing by hand (behind driver’s seat)


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Rufus
post Feb 20 2024, 05:30 PM
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Behind passenger’s seat. As found; I.e. no wire brushing


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930cabman
post Feb 20 2024, 05:45 PM
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Looks like, maybe tastes like, maybe smell like, must be .......

Great example, but the tin worm has taken residence
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Superhawk996
post Feb 20 2024, 06:23 PM
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Whatever you do. . . Don’t panic.

Typical 914 rust location and perforation.

You are probably at a point to stop and take stock of the situation.

Either keep digging and you’ll find more rust. It is not a joke that there is no such thing as a rust free 914. There is ALWAYS rust somewhere unless the car was acid dipped and e-coated. Even then, after a couple years, I’ll bet I can find some minor rust between seams.

Or

Clean up the floor pan tar, fix the minor rust there, seal it up and enjoy the car.

I guess you could also hit pause and do a full blown restoration. Usually I’d be all for that on my cars. I’m (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) that way. But I can do all the work myself and my labor is “free”.

But given how much time and money is already in this car, why not just enjoy it for a while 1st? Especially given how hard it seems to be to find a shop doing quality work based on this thread as well as another thread that’s going on.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) My random thoughts. I’m sure others will chime in.
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930cabman
post Feb 20 2024, 06:54 PM
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I have .02

Assuming you are not 20 or 30 or even 40 years of age, patch things up and enjoy this beauty. A full scale restoration is a major project with major $$ and major setbacks/delays.

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mate914
post Feb 20 2024, 07:23 PM
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Good thing the rust is not too bad on the firewall. That you should be able to treat the rust in the floor pans is a different story. I would suggest sealing the floor pan from both sides. Enjoying the car as much as you can over the summer. Next winter, find a 914 enthusiast or learn yourself. Most of the floor pan welding can be done from above, you don’t need a lift. You will crawl in the floor for a while, if you’re damaged goods like me, try to do it while it’s warm outside.
It’s not fast. It is humbling. We are here to help.
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bkrantz
post Feb 20 2024, 08:17 PM
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So far, you have shown us nothing that is significantly structural. The floors might be almost a concern, and to fix them right would mean welding in new sections. But you could make a temp repair with some patches. Same with the firewall.
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Rufus
post Feb 21 2024, 10:52 AM
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@Superhawk996 @930cabman … What’s the first thing to be addressed in doing a “full blown” or “full scale” restoration?
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mate914
post Feb 21 2024, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(Rufus @ Feb 21 2024, 11:52 AM) *

@Superhawk996 @930cabman … What’s the first step in doing a “full blown” or “full scale” restoration?

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Like this 914-6 I am finishing?
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windforfun
post Feb 21 2024, 10:59 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Total disassembly first.
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930cabman
post Feb 21 2024, 11:16 AM
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QUOTE(mate914 @ Feb 21 2024, 11:58 AM) *

QUOTE(Rufus @ Feb 21 2024, 11:52 AM) *

@Superhawk996 @930cabman … What’s the first step in doing a “full blown” or “full scale” restoration?

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Like this 914-6 I am finishing?
Matt


This could be your 914, if your pockets and time frame are in line.

For me, I would inspect for structural deficiencies and assuming none enjoy this beauty.

If structural work is required, go after it with a solid plan and a solid repair facility.
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Rufus
post Feb 21 2024, 11:57 AM
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After inspecting for structural deficiencies (no apparent reason to expect any in my case), what problem(s) would be next in line to address?
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Superhawk996
post Feb 21 2024, 12:43 PM
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Guys above have covered it.

I’ll answer as if it were my car.

Short term (this coming year): it is clear that to be a high dollar $100k type car it will need restoration - pans, patch panels work on firewall, and other areas to some degree. This isn’t saying there is anything outrageous. It just has some typical rust in typical areas that weren’t addressed by Rillos for whatever reason. Appears to have some paint runs in engine compartment - not sure if that was paint over of old paint or if Rillos did that?

I would stop digging for more rust. At this point, each time you find a new perforation, it’s just another area needing to be sealed or repaired properly (ie weld in metal).

I would finish removing floor pan tar. I would seal the small perforations with Wurth seam sealer. Epoxy paint interior floor pan with SprayMax 2k. Reapply undercoat to any exposed perforated areas underneath.

We’ll call it a short term redneck restoration. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Then I would drive it - enjoy it. Sort out whether there are any other unknown mechanical issues & document any you might want to address in future (gear box, suspension, seal leaks, etc).

Get to know the car and decide if it is the car to keep (I would) or if you want to sell it after you know it better. At this point, given the selling price and what you have in from Rothsport, you’re probably at or around a break even point. The longer you keep it, drive it, and enjoy it, the more value there is for you.

Long term - strip it down and go full bare metal rotisserie on it. When it goes back together that’s the time to take care of any of the mechanical issues you would have noted.

The problem here is:

1) Time - not sure how old you are or how long you want the car off the road. Less time to do resto = more cost. It’s the old saying - you can have quality, cheap, or quick: pick two.

2) This car is underwater financially already given the money put in by prior owner, your purchase cost, and the Rothsport bill. A full professionally done resto and quality re-paint only goes further in the hole - financially speaking. Doesn’t mean I wouldn’t do it. It is a /6 after all and they aren’t making any more. I don’t see this being a positive financial return in the short term but given current inflation rate, it won’t be cheaper to do in the near future than it will be now.

3) Quality labor is apparently way harder to find and way more expensive than it used to be. I would think you would need to reach out to some of the other /6 guys to get a 1st hand recommendation on who they used, and what it cost. Then put out for bids.

I don’t envy the decision about undertaking a full resto since you’ve indicated you’re not in a position to do it all yourself (no shame there). A full blown professional resto is a guarantee to lose lots of money. As I said previously the pursuit of perfection leads to a garage queen.
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930cabman
post Feb 21 2024, 01:18 PM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Feb 21 2024, 01:43 PM) *

Guys above have covered it.

I’ll answer as if it were my car.

Short term (this coming year): it is clear that to be a high dollar $100k type car it will need restoration - pans, patch panels work on firewall, and other areas to some degree. This isn’t saying there is anything outrageous. It just has some typical rust in typical areas that weren’t addressed by Rillos for whatever reason. Appears to have some paint runs in engine compartment - not sure if that was paint over of old paint or if Rillos did that?

I would stop digging for more rust. At this point, each time you find a new perforation, it’s just another area needing to be sealed or repaired properly (ie weld in metal).

I would finish removing floor pan tar. I would seal the small perforations with Wurth seam sealer. Epoxy paint interior floor pan with SprayMax 2k. Reapply undercoat to any exposed perforated areas underneath.

We’ll call it a short term redneck restoration. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Then I would drive it - enjoy it. Sort out whether there are any other unknown mechanical issues & document any you might want to address in future (gear box, suspension, seal leaks, etc).

Get to know the car and decide if it is the car to keep (I would) or if you want to sell it after you know it better. At this point, given the selling price and what you have in from Rothsport, you’re probably at or around a break even point. The longer you keep it, drive it, and enjoy it, the more value there is for you.

Long term - strip it down and go full bare metal rotisserie on it. When it goes back together that’s the time to take care of any of the mechanical issues you would have noted.

The problem here is:

1) Time - not sure how old you are or how long you want the car off the road. Less time to do resto = more cost. It’s the old saying - you can have quality, cheap, or quick: pick two.

2) This car is underwater financially already given the money put in by prior owner, your purchase cost, and the Rothsport bill. A full professionally done resto and quality re-paint only goes further in the hole - financially speaking. Doesn’t mean I wouldn’t do it. It is a /6 after all and they aren’t making any more. I don’t see this being a positive financial return in the short term but given current inflation rate, it won’t be cheaper to do in the near future than it will be now.

3) Quality labor is apparently way harder to find and way more expensive than it used to be. I would think you would need to reach out to some of the other /6 guys to get a 1st hand recommendation on who they used, and what it cost. Then put out for bids.

I don’t envy the decision about undertaking a full resto since you’ve indicated you’re not in a position to do it all yourself (no shame there). A full blown professional resto is a guarantee to lose lots of money. As I said previously the pursuit of perfection leads to a garage queen.


Well stated, my vote stays with enjoy this beauty and hold off any major restoration
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infraredcalvin
post Feb 21 2024, 04:37 PM
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I'm enjoying your attention to detail and your sharing the dissection of your car, ultimately this will be valuable history/records for the car.

This seems to be therapeutic for you to really get to know your car and making it to your liking/expectations - everyone's expectations will be different. Keep up the progress, fix what can be fixed, keep getting to know your car.

But at some point, the next step will be to address handling and drivability... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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