Sale Pending - My purchase of 9140431482, Just facts; no spin or opinion Options

[mountainroads]

Full disclosure: I've edited my post above a couple of times as additional details came to mind.


- MR

[Mikey914]

@rufus I guess that the bottom line is If you could buy it for what you have into it to date in the condition it's in, would you?
As there aren't many of these, the answer may be yes. Not as good of a deal, but you will have the knowledge that you can be assured of the condition, once done.

There is no good outcome without spending money, either litigation, or restoration. Restoration is the best value in my opinion. You may get lucky on the floorboards, use the dry ice technique. MUCH faster. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[mepstein]

We do PPI’s at our shop with the caveat that there are no warranties or guarantees. It’s only an opinion of condition and we might miss something. Actually, we are sure to miss something because until you chemically dip the car, it’s all a guess. It’s almost impossible to know what’s under the paint, inside the trans or how much material is worn off the engine bearings. 50 year old cars, multiple owners, multiple people servicing and repairing the vehicle. I don’t like to hear about anyone getting taken advantage or getting less than they expect but no matter how careful you are, it’s still a lottery.
I do hope the OP gets a chance to work things out and enjoy the car.

[Rufus]

The first 10 minutes of process of exposing the driver’s side floorboard:

[930cabman]

Progress.

I am just about 99% convinced there is no rust free 914.

Either way, great example

[mate914]

The first 10 minutes of process of exposing the driver’s side floorboard:

Why the time stamp?
Matt

[mate914]

The first 10 minutes of process of exposing the driver’s side floorboard:

There are 0 rust free 914's or 9146 originals.
@Rufus I don't think you realize how nice the metal still is in your 6. I had to replace the bottom four inches of most of the 6 car I saved. 5 years and its almost road ready.
Matt

[Rufus]

The first 10 minutes of process of exposing the driver’s side floorboard:

Why the time stamp?
Matt

Just to indicate how long it took to make this much progress removing what covered the metal footboard. 10 minutes so far

[Craigers17]

Those floorboards look really solid so far. In a best case scenario, every floor I've ever seen underneath that coating looks similar to yours...a little surface rust and dirt. While I understand some of your frustration that this should have been addressed before paint, I'd say your car looks very solid. Congrats!

[mb911]

Looks like it will clean up nicely

[VaccaRabite]

Those floors are pristine.

You have started so you may as well finish stripping them of the tar. Then clean them and paint them and put a modern sound insulator on them (Dynamat or similar) and forget about them. They are fine.

I'd also consider taking down anything with personal information on it from your post. That's really not cool.

I hate seeing these types of posts. They don't break rules, but they do nothing to forward the forum or the love of these cars. And they tend to irrevocably destroy possible roads forward between the poster and whoever they have beef with.

Good luck. It looks like you got a really killer car!

Zach

[KELTY360]

Much ado about very little.

[Rufus]

And after a little wire brushing (under the driver’s knees) today with my Milwaukee M12:

[930cabman]

Looks quite pitted, got to be some section loss

[Superhawk996]

Very typical of rust under the tar.

Better to get the tar off so it doesn’t continue to hold moisture.

Keep going. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)


Ditch the screwdriver.

Oscillating multi-tool with a scraper will make quick work of it. Dry ice also works well if you have somewhere convenient to get it in bulk.

[Rufus]

Thanks for your encouragement Superhawk. The screwdriver’s only a weight to temporarily hold back the leather / vinyl trim while working. Using sharpened paint scrapers for now. After removing the easy stuff, will switch to either locally available dry ice or a version of your suggested vibe tool with scraper blade to attack the tar.
Thanks for your advise (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

I’ll get there eventually…

[Karl R]

I have recently had good luck using Evaporust in these sorts of situations. For example, you can fill that channel and let it sit there and come back with wire brush and scotch brite pads from time to time. This has allowed me to remove all the rust, while removing less total metal. The process above will expose pits that remain full of rust or converted rust . I generally go into the pits with a small ball diamond dremil bit and try to get down to bare metal without making a hole that goes all the way through.

[mb911]

With a brush or spray bottle use this after you get it pretty clean. Let it sit for a good 30 minutes then wipe with water to neutralize. Then once dry quick Scotch brite , wipe, epoxy primer.

[sixaddict]

Unfortunately this story is far too common. As Mark said there is no warranty with PPI from any shop. Seems shops are reluctant to call out bad cars as they become the bad guy. A 100 years ago the best shop in town ( in an unnamed city) looked over a car I bought. After I owned it I showed the owner something significant ….. his response “ lm embarrassed “ …..they didn’t connect the proverbial dots. We were and still are friendly today…… s____ happens.
On line purchasing biggest boon to sale of bad cars for all that’s worth.
I have never purchased a car that seller was forthcoming about deficiencies……the problem is when they misrepresent the car.
Good luck with car however and where ever this goes.

[Superhawk996]

With a brush or spray bottle use this after you get it pretty clean. Let it sit for a good 30 minutes then wipe with water to neutralize. Then once dry quick Scotch brite , wipe, epoxy primer.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Same stuff as Ospho

The critical step is to ensure it’s neutralized after application.

I’m not sure what directions are on the bottle Ben is recommending (local big box stuff). Ospho implies that you can paint over it - this is true for an outdoor metal railing using an oil based paint but has zero applicability to automotive epoxy / urethane finish.

Must be rinsed / neutralized prior to primer and dried thoroughly.