Project 3.6 RS Thread, Getting the bugs out and oil line leak Options

[Cairo94507]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Steve]

Welds too thick on the MSDS 1 3/4” headers. PIA, but have to grind down every weld, just to clear a standard nut or barrrel nut.
Also after cutting rib on intake manifold and repositioning throttle body, now the throttle cable is too long. Might also have to modify bracket on motor.
If it’s not one thing it’s several others…

[Steve]

Here’s my Home Depot Motorsports solution to take up the extra cable slack for the accelerator cable.

[Cairo94507]

Nice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[Steve]

Finally semi got the car together, but it won’t start. No fuel pump or ignition. Tried another DME relay, no change. Next steps, on to troubleshooting. Also have other issues. Oil dripping from AN16 fittings on bottom of oil tank and my muffler hanger won’t work with these headers. Had to order stock 2.0 hanger. Also still not getting full throttle. One day at a time… tried using the CEL to troubleshoot. Decoding a flashing light is like Morse code.

[Steve]

Muffler hanger fixed and I am now getting full throttle. Motor turns over but still doesn’t start. DME relay and speed sensor test out fine. Bought a DVM oscilloscope from Amazon to troubleshoot the speed sensor. I love toys! I also bought a Durametric OBD1 reader. The OBD1 reader shows up tomorrow.
Here is a picture of the speed sensor sine wave on my dvm oscilloscope.

[ClayPerrine]

Finally semi got the car together, but it won’t start. No fuel pump or ignition.

I had the exact same issue. Check the wiring on the crank sensor. Make sure the wires are not crossed. The DME won't turn on the fuel pump or ignition if it doesn't see a crank sensor signal.

And Porsche superseded all the crank sensors to one. They put a kit together with all the proper electrical connectors to replace it, but it is easy to mix up the wires.

[Steve]

Finally semi got the car together, but it won’t start. No fuel pump or ignition.

I had the exact same issue. Check the wiring on the crank sensor. Make sure the wires are not crossed. The DME won't turn on the fuel pump or ignition if it doesn't see a crank sensor signal.

And Porsche superseded all the crank sensors to one. They put a kit together with all the proper electrical connectors to replace it, but it is easy to mix up the wires.

Thanks @clayperrine mine is all stock harness, sensor and connectors. I did buy a new sensor with the new connector and the wiring kit, but is their any reason to change it if I am getting 5 VAC at the ECU and the correct wave form on the oscilloscope? The connector kit for the new sensor is coming in today. I could swap it for the hell of it and see what happens.

[Cairo94507]

I would swap it for the hell of it and see if that solves the problem. You are so close to getting it fired. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Steve]

I would swap it for the hell of it and see if that solves the problem. You are so close to getting it fired. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Parts are showing up Monday to make an adapter cable, but I will be on vacation for a couple of weeks. I will eventually get it running. No hurry. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Steve]

Still won't start, but I am learning a lot about this fuel injection.

Replaced the Speed Sensor, still won't start. Still no ground from ECU to actuate the Fuel pump side of the DME relay. I can manually connect pin 36 from the ECU to ground to actuate the DME Relay, I then connected pin 3 from the ECU to ground to actuate the fuel pump side of the DME Relay. I also put pig tails on the new speed sensor so I could switch the wires around. I still get the correct sine wave and +5VAC at the ECU.

At this point, I called up the ECU doctor in Florida to test out my ECU. They also do repairs if they find anything wrong. They should get the ECU some time this week.

Also called up James at PMS and dug up some more info on the Web for things to check out / verify:

1. Does the first stage of the DME relay turn on when you turn the switch to ON
Yes!
2. Do you see the +12V with the ignition in ON at both screw terminals of the coils
Did not test this yet. I will wait until I get the ECU back
3. Does the second stage of the DME relay switch on when you crank?
No! This is usually caused by the speed sensor....
4. Continuous keyed 12vdc to PMS Harness, not accessories / relay / cigarette lighter. Must have power supplied to DME while starting.
Yes, verified I get continuous ignition +12v while starting.
5. ECU ground through cable
No. I will add this, but the ECU is bolted to the firewall. Verified I am getting a good ground from the cover to the chassis. Plus, the ground for the ignition side of the DME relay is working fine through the ECU. My 3.2 ECU was also bolted to the firewall with no issues.
6. Verify fuel pressure and hoses (return versus pressure)
Duh.. I did have these reversed. Easy fix. I also bought a harbor freight fuel pump / injection pressure gauge. Only $40.00 with no coupon. Screwed right onto fuel rail with no adapters. I am getting around 55 PSI from my 044 fuel pump.
7. Serial # on harness, could be a bad harness. There was a recall for this. Early 993 harnesses were known to short out, catch fire, etc.
Verified I have the new replacement harness.
8. Verify voltage is the same at the battery as the ECU, DME Relay and Ignition
Done! No issues
9. Does the resonance flap actuator click when you turn the ignition to ON?
Still need to check this one. I will wait until I get the ECU back.
10. Also verified by part number that I have an early ECU which has no drive block, even though my Steve Wong chip should have it disabled anyway.

On another note.. I am not content with the PMS cable. Yes it works, but I had to remove the stop under the pedal and add the Home Depot spacer at the firewall to get it to work. I would love to get the same pedal range I had before with the 3.2 bell crank and 914-6 throttle cable. Instant G https://www.instant-g.com/products/36-conve...ts-and-options/ sells a special extended bell crank on the trans that connects to the stock 914-6 throttle cable. It then uses a special cable from the bell crank to the motor. I ordered the kit. I will try it out after I get the engine running. Note that Paul (Excellence 3.6 914 article) raised the ball on the pedal actuator that the cable connects to get the correct range back. He cut it off, raised it and welded it back on.. The modified bell crank should be a bolt on solution.

[Cairo94507]

Man, I know what you are going through and I hope when they get your ECU they tell you they found the problem and corrected it. Good luck buddy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Jgilliam914]

Steve!!! Geez maybe I should be more active here these past few months! Everything you are dealing with now is exactly what I am dealing with. Getting the engine in the car was the easy part. Trying to figure out the wiring has been a big freaking headache.
Our projects mirror each other except the you going into the top end. I bought the engine from LA Dismantlers with 38k miles in 2015 and paid a fraction of what they go for these days. I wouldn't be able to afford this now.
Unfortunately I am headed to Florida for the winter while the project will have to wait till May 2025 to get it going. I will follow your progress closely in hopes your issues get resolved quickly and it gets me closer next spring ! best of luck to you

[Steve]

Finally running!! Love the RS cams at idle. Very slight lobe, but sounds cool!!
Lots of dumb stuff.. All problems self induced. Fuel lines reversed, distributor wires reversed and finally the distributor was 180 off. None of the parts were bad.
I wasted way too much time troubleshooting the DME relay and it wasn't the problem. I started going through that troubleshooting list, starting with the fuel pressure. Bought a cheap Harbor Freight Fuel Injection pressure tester. I was surprised it connected right up with no adapters. No pressure and sure enough the fuel lines were reversed. Easy fix to swap them at the firewall. Still wouldn't start. Moved onto the ignition. No spark... Noticed in the manual that the ECU talks to a specific coil first. Sure enough the coil wires to the distributors were reversed. It still wouldn't start, but it occasionally fired. Then the intake manifold blew apart at the rubber boots. Googled 993 intake manifold blowing apart and the result was broken distributor belt. I pulled the distributor caps off and verified the belt was good. That made me realize maybe the timing is off. Both distributors pointed to the #1 spark plug and the pulley red mark lined up with the block, but maybe its 180 off. I rotated the pulley until the TDC red mark was at the top again and noticed the distributor rotor was 180 off. Pulled the distributor and put the rotor back at the #1 spark plug. Motor started right up after that.

Live and learn. Glad its finally running!! It's only been 10 months since I got the short block back.

[Cairo94507]

@Steve - Congratulations man; I bet those RS cams do sound nasty. So glad you got her fired up; have you been able to drive her down the street yet? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Steve]

@Steve - Congratulations man; I bet those RS cams do sound nasty. So glad you got her fired up; have you been able to drive her down the street yet? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

@Cairo94507
Thanks!! I haven’t driven it yet. I need to put some stuff back before I take it out.
I also have to drive it nice until I break the motor in.

[Montreal914]

Congratulations!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[TMM914]

Congrats……..914 stuff…the lows are very low.. but the highs are never higher! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[Steve]

Congrats……..914 stuff…the lows are very low.. but the highs are never higher! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Thanks!! Yes, it was very frustrating... wasted too much time troubleshooting the DME relay and it wasn't the problem. Yesterday was the final straw. If I couldn't fix it I was going to tow it 6 hours to Patrick Motorsports. Hard to find a shop in So Cal that will work on 914's let alone a broken project car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[76-914]

Congrats Steve. That thing should be quick now! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)