Cairo's Six - 3.6 in and running great! Options

[Cairo94507]

Making decent progress. Greg has the fuel lines all completed except for the line from the fuel filter. We had to order a new fitting for that.

Greg got the complete intake system finished and it fits really nicely right where we wanted it.

Then we got the passenger side heat exchanger installed along with the clutch cable connected. We are waiting on the one oil line that goes from the oil tank to the engine. Tomorrow my brother and I will take a ride to The Red Barn where Chris is going to bend me some pipe for that.

Then we got the new rear trunk "shocks" installed. Thanks to Craig at Camp914 for those beauties. They work like a charm and look quite nice too.









Couple gratuitous '74 911 shots and my car sitting and waiting until our next day. That 911 is just amazing; the color is off the hook! Greg knows what he is doing and that is for sure. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[live free & drive]

I'd hate to see that engine get ruined by the K&N filter - just say'n

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/k...-or-bad.164018/

[technicalninja]

I'd hate to see that engine get ruined by the K&N filter - just say'n

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/k...-or-bad.164018/

All that will do is possibly require the MAF to be cleaned more often.

He's NOT over oiled and I believe there is NOTHING paper based that could fit there.

Now, I personally prefer large surface area paper-based filters, but that car does not have room for one. I want my filter box to have a high-pressure cold air intake as well.
The 914 is LOUSY for high pressure cold air back there.
Really needs a snorkel that extends above the roof line and that would look like ASS...

He's not going to be off roading that car so the level of silica between paper and cotton gauze will be very hard to measure.

That MAF looks stupid simple to clean as well.

@Cairo94507 The foam "pre-covers" do help enough on particulates to be worth installing. Might look into one.
And, if you're not automatically cleaning that MAF every couple of years regardless of air filter type you should be BITCH-SLAPPED! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

Having a properly oiled K&N is far, far better than nothing at all...

[mb911]

Pre filter is a must. K&N filters are actually very poor at filtering. We did testing some 20 years ago at a company I worked at that showed more wear than its paper counterparts

[ClayPerrine]

Maybe somebody with a 3D printer can design an air filter box that fits on the left side runners and would attach to the MAF sensor. Make it use a stock 993 filter element for ease of parts supply.

Big open sided with a rain shield lapping over on top.

[SirAndy]

Maybe somebody with a 3D printer can design an air filter box that fits on the left side runners and would attach to the MAF sensor. Make it use a stock 993 filter element for ease of parts supply.

Big open sided with a rain shield lapping over on top.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[technicalninja]

Maybe somebody with a 3D printer can design an air filter box that fits on the left side runners and would attach to the MAF sensor. Make it use a stock 993 filter element for ease of parts supply.

Big open sided with a rain shield lapping over on top.

I'm positive that my oldest, Bryan can do exactly that!

Only problem is what to make it out of.

Most 3D printer stock cannot handle 200 degrees.

I believe once you find a filament that can withstand 250 it's special and the 3D printer that is able to run it is fairly expensive.

I will ask Byran what he would do next time he's here.

@ClayPerrine @SirAndy This is IMPORTANT!
What do you think the maximum temperature that the box might see putting it where you want?
I think it will be 5-10 minutes of heat soak after you've driven hard.
I think 250 would be COMMON directly above the engine.
Now, if you also incorporated an "after cool" fan that ran above a specific temp it might lower the max box temp a significant amount.
It doesn't take much airflow to have a major effect on cooling...

[technicalninja]

Spoke with my son.

Nylon carbon fiber can withstand UP to 300 degrees F.

A decent sized printer will set you back 2K+.

The filament is expensive but not horribly expensive.

Approximately $60/lb.

So, not un-doable.

You'd want to 3D scan a 993 housing and modify from that point.

Text back from Bryan...

"This would run in my printer, but I need hardened steel nozzle tips and a new extruder.
Nozzles are in the range of $10-50 depending on brand, sizing... And a new extruder is around 40-60. The nozzles are required, and the extruder is to replace my current one once I run this through. It's a rough material to print with, so it will literally eat through the drive wheels, ptfe tubing, and the nozzles as it runs. Expensive filament that is very harsh on drive components. We used some carbon fiber filament on the rocket, it worked well. We didn't get it up to 300 but it was very strong.

We printed it with the schools cr10 unit, which is just a large version of my printer.

What are you wanting printed?"


Give me an approximate size and I'll check if his machine is big enough...

[technicalninja]

Looking at that space between the engine and the driver's side of car I'd toss the idea of 993 copy and put the largest paper filter I could fit in that space with the filter "standing on edge" It looks like 12-14" tall and 22-24" long.

Imagine a paint roller pan turned on edge with the MAF entrance in the deep end with an outer cover with big louvers.

That would be a BIG ASS filter!

You could probably make a port to scavenge Sir Andy's high tech blow off bottle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

And for cars, not at the level of Cairo's. an outer NACA duct in the rear fender feeding into the outer housing... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/devil.gif)

A little like the Boxster/Cayman.

Now you have cool high-pressure air.

Having cool air above ambient pressure is ALWAYS worth power! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

[Cairo94507]

@technicalninja - Once we get her running and sorted, I would definitely love to get a better air filter system on the engine. But, as you know, one foot in front of the other.

Yesterday, my brother and I cruised over to Petaluma to meet with Chris, Mark, Martin, Steve and Robert at The Red Barn. Chris is just the best and is always willing to help us out. Martin demonstrated his skills by bending the pipe we will use for the oil return line from the oil tank to the engine, perfectly. We got 3' of 7/8" 0.065 walled mild steel and Martin put a nice 2" radius 90 degree bend on both ends about 10" from the end to the center of the radius. That should give us 2 pieces in case we screw up one.

Once that was done we all went to lunch with the exception of Martin and Robert who had to scoot. After lunch Bobby and I spent 3 hours in traffic for what should have been a 2 hour 10 minute trip. I swear even getting close to a holiday brings all of the fools out on the freeways.

[Steve]

I bought the PMS 914-6 Oil tank to 993 kit. https://patrickmotorsports.com/collections/...01107993an16pms
They also make a fuel line kit with all the fittings and hoses. Expensive but I don’t have the talent or time to source this stuff myself or the tools and talent to make the stuff myself. Looking forward to your completed project. Very cool mods!!

[930cabman]

I had this kit: https://patrickmotorsports.com/collections/...01107710an12pms

and was not pleased with the hard line, a couple cuts here and there and now fits like a glove. Steel tubing

[Nogoodwithusernames]

When/if you get around to the intake upgrades we have a printer here at our shop that will run CF/Nylon.
Does it really need to be good to 200F though? You're not pulling 200F air into the motor?

My Squareback has a CF/Nylon oil filler to fit under the decklid, but the air filter plumbing is PVC with a PLA filter housing. (That's the cheap plastic that everyone and their aunt uses)

[SirAndy]

Does it really need to be good to 200F though? You're not pulling 200F air into the motor?

The air temp when running is not the issue, it's the heat soak after you shut off the engine that can see temps well above 200.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Nogoodwithusernames]

Does it really need to be good to 200F though? You're not pulling 200F air into the motor?

The air temp when running is not the issue, it's the heat soak after you shut off the engine that can see temps well above 200.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

Got it, I will say I have not had any issue with my "plain" air intake and heat soak up here in the northern CA Central Valley even after several years.
But we have the fancy printer available, happy to help out some fellow teeners.

[Cairo94507]

@nogoodwithusernames - That is a very generous offer and I will keep you in mind when the time comes. That is some screen name BTW. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Cairo94507]

Had a productive day today. Fuel system is done. Oil lines are done. Throttle cable connected and working fine. Driver's heat exchanger on along with muffler. When it hit 95 degrees in the garage we stopped.

[tygaboy]

That looks great! Any target date for the inital start up?

[East coaster]

Looks great! Is that sweat running down the trailing arm? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Krieger]

Excellent work guys! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)