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> Shifter "centering" and accidental reverse, Update - fixed
burlybryan
post Jun 3 2024, 03:57 PM
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Since I've had my car (2020), it's always had a tendency to go from first straight up to reverse when shifting. Especially when cold. I've done all bushings from the firewall back, but I still have to be very careful when shifting from first to second. Shift from first requires a push out of first to let the shifter try to center, then carefully go up to second.

I haven't made any improvements to the shifter at the cabin. Are there similar bushings or a "centering spring" or something under the shifter than can be changed? All the focus seems to be on the firewall back, but I wondered if there is anything to prevent my reverse kiss tendencies at the shifter instead (besides the shiftee - me).

Thanks.
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windforfun
post Jun 3 2024, 04:00 PM
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How many miles are on the car? There's a spring loaded mechanism below the stick that "prevents" this. This may be worn out.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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worn
post Jun 3 2024, 04:53 PM
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QUOTE(windforfun @ Jun 3 2024, 03:00 PM) *

How many miles are on the car? There's a spring loaded mechanism below the stick that "prevents" this. This may be worn out.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

There is supposed to be a spring that produces first-reverse lockout. With that said, after driving a more standard pattern car I worry a lot about reving the motor and then when the light turns green speeding gracefully into the honking car behind me. Perhaps the backup lights provide a brief warning. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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burlybryan
post Jun 3 2024, 07:08 PM
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"How many miles are on the car?"

All of them? Since the firewall and back bushings were super toast when I did them, I assume the shifter mechanics are original as well. Will look into the spring.

Thanks!
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FlacaProductions
post Jun 3 2024, 07:39 PM
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A thread for some general info on the springs:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=254412
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Montreal914
post Jun 3 2024, 08:08 PM
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Have you tried adjusting the shifter? If it is currently set where you do not need to push what is called the "stop plate" (mentioned by the others, #2 in diagram) by a lot to get in first gear, then it may be too easy to get into reverse too? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

#2, 901.424.017.00 could be worn out. This spring loaded part can wear out over time, especially if there is no lubrication. There could also be something malfunctioning with the springs too. Sometimes if the stop plate is worn out, the shifter lever is also worn out where it contacts the plate.

You may want to investigate in there and assess the condition, especially if you have taken care of all the other bushings, time to complete the job. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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rhodyguy
post Jun 4 2024, 08:21 AM
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Item #2 must be inspected for wear at the shift lever connection point along with the lever itself. The linkage should jump out of the 1st/R plane. If not done, presume EVERY bushing in the linkage needs replacement. Repeated grinding will more than likely result in an expensive repair and excessive down time. Shifter removal and inspection is a simple task.
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burlybryan
post Jun 4 2024, 10:30 AM
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Perfect. Thanks for the information. I'll dig in.
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rhodyguy
post Jun 4 2024, 02:01 PM
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There are 2 springs and 2 small rods, #s 3 and 4 that support the detent plate. If the plate is worn replacements are available. There are 4 number 5s (circlips) that keep the small rods in place. The springs also get gunked up limiting compression. Getting the rods and springs back in place can be a small problem.
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Steve
post Jun 5 2024, 07:34 AM
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Weltmeister used to sell a kit to double the springs. I never hit reverse again after that upgrade. But since then I installed a Rennshift in both of my cars. You can adjust the spring tension to your liking.
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rhodyguy
post Jun 5 2024, 08:58 AM
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If #2 is spent and the underside of the shifter is loaded with gunk, adding extra springs is not going to solve the grinding problem. Increasing the force required to get into 1/R simply grinds more on the contact point. Odds are parts are worn and the bottom side of the shifter and springs are a greasy gritty mess. Adding additional and stiffer springs is not the solution.
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mlindner
post Jun 7 2024, 08:11 AM
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Yup, springs missing or broken. And what fun installing new ones. At least two beers.
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rhodyguy
post Jun 8 2024, 11:06 AM
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R&R springs? Simple. A pair of vice grips and a putty knife.
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Shivers
post Jun 8 2024, 02:18 PM
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I can show you what I did for that reason and also coming quickly from higher gears to second.
@burlybryan

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windforfun
post Jun 8 2024, 06:49 PM
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Right on!!!
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burlybryan
post Jun 30 2024, 01:16 PM
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Finally got around to pulling the shifter. Springs intact and someone has replaced the lock out plate in the past, but I think I found my problem. Can I weld fill this wear on the shifter shaft or should I look for a good used or new one?


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914werke
post Jun 30 2024, 01:25 PM
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Weld it.
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burlybryan
post Jul 3 2024, 02:58 PM
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Figured this out. See next...
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burlybryan
post Jul 3 2024, 03:39 PM
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Welded and reinstalled. Having a blast trying to re-find the gears.

Found these threads from dr evil and Chris.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...91028&st=20

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=188120

Got the gears back by twisting on the rod in the tunnel (Chris's method), but need to fine tune. Not going directly into reverse anymore, but still nicking it when going to second sometimes.

Seems from the threads that this requires some very particular fine tuning.
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rgalla9146
post Jul 5 2024, 11:40 AM
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Mark the splined shaft for depth and spline position.
Keep the current depth and rotate one spline either clockwise or CCW.
Drive it.
Better ? or worse ? if better go one more spline. IF worse go two splines in the opposite direction.
You'll know when it is getting better.
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