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NARP74 |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,149 Joined: 29-July 20 From: Colorado, USA, Earth Member No.: 24,549 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() |
I am moving my fuel pump and drained the tank for the hose hook up etc. I looked deep inside and noticed a little residue on the bottom. I am going to pull the screen too, might be more there.
Is there something to use to flush the tank that is not fuel? This will be with the tank in place. I am NOT taking it out. Scope creep is killing me and I am already missing the best part of the driving season. |
rjames |
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#2
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,097 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
I get wanting to avoid scope creep, but have you changed the fuel lines under the tank recently? If not, now would be a good time to do so, and pulling it out of the car isn't that hard to do and would allow you to more easily clean it out.
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NARP74 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,149 Joined: 29-July 20 From: Colorado, USA, Earth Member No.: 24,549 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() |
They are fresh and I am changing some during this process, need longer in a case or two.
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bkrantz |
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#4
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,004 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
I would not use any water (or water-base). Any solvent would work--maybe ethanol?
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technicalninja |
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#5
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,807 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I'd chose something that evaporates easily.
Acetone followed by alcohol maybe. You will need big airflow and NO sparky! Actually, thinking about it, AC flush would probably work fine. It's a bit on the expensive side. I sometimes use liquid B12 before the AC flush on a seriously poisoned AC system. On a really bad one I'll use B12, then AC flush, then a shitload of alcohol. Each fluid is better than the others on specific trash. |
r_towle |
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#6
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,620 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
In place…
Laquer thinner, a good blast of air after it evaporates. New screen, new, additional, racing filter that uses a stone so you can remove the filter and clean it with carb cleaner… Place new filter between outlet and fuel pump. Remove tank next winter. Rich |
930cabman |
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#7
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,481 Joined: 12-November 20 From: Buffalo Member No.: 24,877 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
Maybe a bit crude, but I have wrapped a paper towel around a stick and pulled tons of crap from the bottom of fuel tanks. Keep things a bit damp with fuel and you will be surprised what you can get. All done with the tank in place
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technicalninja |
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#8
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,807 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
"Mopping" it up will be needed with any solvent. I keep what I call "dog towels" in the shop and sometimes they are sacrificial dog towels. Old nasty, garage sale, disposable trash towels. I keep a "dog towel" beach towel on the ground at all times. If it's water/coolant it gets placed under the drain pans to catch what misses. Once it gets NASTY, I pressure wash it and lay it on my driveway to dry. I've been able to re-use it for 9 years now... If they hit fuel or oil they end up in the trash. |
Literati914 |
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#9
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,629 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Maybe a bit crude, but I have wrapped a paper towel around a stick and pulled tons of crap from the bottom of fuel tanks. Keep things a bit damp with fuel and you will be surprised what you can get. All done with the tank in place I like this simple approach. I bet a couple of (painter's) tack clothes would be even better (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) . |
Artfrombama |
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#10
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 148 Joined: 21-January 24 From: Alabama Member No.: 27,870 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I’ve used heavy duty oven cleaner with good results.
Apply-wait-rinse-repeat Replace the strainer |
burton73 |
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#11
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burton73 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,632 Joined: 2-January 07 From: Los Angeles Member No.: 7,414 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
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technicalninja |
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#12
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,807 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I bought one from "parts geek" for my 75 BEFORE I even looked at the one I have.
Was about 250 all in... Stupid cheap IMO. If you tank is nice inside and just needs a little cleaning, I'd try what I suggested. Lacquer thinner might be kick ass as well. I've used oven cleaner extensively in cleaning up cast iron engine blocks. That can CREATE corrosion so be really careful if you try it. If you get it into the air, it will give you tiny little chemical burns for every microscopic drop that hits you. MONSTER PPE for caustic cleaners and then MONSTER rinse out with first a low flow garden hose and then a pressure washer... I believe the tank should come out for oven cleaner. Now, oven cleaner works better than ANYTHING else for cleaning ferrous metals. It DESTROYS alloys so NO overspray on anything alloy. |
NARP74 |
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#13
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,149 Joined: 29-July 20 From: Colorado, USA, Earth Member No.: 24,549 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() |
This is a tiny amount of foreign substance at the bottom, the tank is great, no need to pull it or replace it. I probably don't have to do anything but i am. I will replace the screen since it is drained already. I already have scope creep on this item and too many other items to list. But yes I do have a list. The list grows but the progress does not.
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rick 918-S |
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#14
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Hey nice rack! -Celette ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,646 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I used a battery charger and washing soda. Took 2 days and three rinses but it was perfect when I was done. I have a post someplace about it.
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Artfrombama |
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#15
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 148 Joined: 21-January 24 From: Alabama Member No.: 27,870 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
I bought one from "parts geek" for my 75 BEFORE I even looked at the one I have. Was about 250 all in... Stupid cheap IMO. If you tank is nice inside and just needs a little cleaning, I'd try what I suggested. Lacquer thinner might be kick ass as well. I've used oven cleaner extensively in cleaning up cast iron engine blocks. That can CREATE corrosion so be really careful if you try it. If you get it into the air, it will give you tiny little chemical burns for every microscopic drop that hits you. MONSTER PPE for caustic cleaners and then MONSTER rinse out with first a low flow garden hose and then a pressure washer... I believe the tank should come out for oven cleaner. Now, oven cleaner works better than ANYTHING else for cleaning ferrous metals. It DESTROYS alloys so NO overspray on anything alloy. Agreed, the tank should come out whatever concoction is used. Oven cleaner will stain and remove anodizing from aluminum so use caution |
technicalninja |
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#16
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,807 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I used a battery charger and washing soda. Took 2 days and three rinses but it was perfect when I was done. I have a post someplace about it. @rick 918-S Inquiring minds want to know... That sounds "non-destructive" as anything else and much safer to work with. I would like to add that process to my mental tool box. I'd really appreciate a link to your thread if you have time. I can probably find it on my own if you don't. Seldom do I see stuff that is NEW to me. That may be "the ticket" for other things as well. Thanks Rick |
Literati914 |
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#17
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,629 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
If Lacquer thinner is used as suggested, I'd be sure to change the hoses after-wards (but that's more project creep). Also, I don't imagen oven cleaner to be liquid enough.. it foams up, right? I guess eventually it turns liquid and would drain out. Remember though, the OP has stated the tank is not that bad and will stay in the car. Again, I'd do tack rags on a stick, rinse with small amounts of gas - repeat til clean. If hose will be changed out, maybe use acetone to rinse, since it's cheaper that lacquer thinner. JMHO
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rick 918-S |
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#18
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Hey nice rack! -Celette ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,646 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I used a battery charger and washing soda. Took 2 days and three rinses but it was perfect when I was done. I have a post someplace about it. @rick 918-S Inquiring minds want to know... That sounds "non-destructive" as anything else and much safer to work with. I would like to add that process to my mental tool box. I'd really appreciate a link to your thread if you have time. I can probably find it on my own if you don't. Seldom do I see stuff that is NEW to me. That may be "the ticket" for other things as well. Thanks Rick I will dig up the photos and or the post I did. I used the process on the tank for 7 of 9. |
rick 918-S |
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#19
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Hey nice rack! -Celette ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 20,646 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Found it on Page 6
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...4128&st=100 I had to grind the rust off the Rod in the tank about every 4 hours or so the first day. Then I changed the water/soda solution at about 4 hours then new solution the next day. You have to be sure to keep the positive electrode from grounding out on the tank. U wrapped tape around the electrode where it passed through the tank opening. |
Jack Standz |
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#20
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 353 Joined: 15-November 19 From: Happy Place (& surrounding area) Member No.: 23,644 Region Association: None ![]() |
Removing the tank is one fastener on the strap & disconnecting the fuel lines (that are being or should be replaced if they have any age at all on them). IIRC replacing the in-tank screen/"sock" isn't easy with the tank still in, but I'm not sure.
If it's loose dirt or crud that you're trying to clean out, how could you get it out with the reserve tank/reservoir at the bottom of the tank? (Mabe using the above "mop" method) Take it outside and spray some carb celaner in there, maybe let it soak awhile, then rinse out with some fuel. |
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