Fuel pump, No start Options

[Erich]

Hello all, just picked up a 1974 1.8l. New to 914’s but have owned several air cooled VW’s. The 914 has been stored for several years. Just pulled out of storage when I bought it. Will run on starter fluid only. Technically it is a one owner registered car as I have the original owners signed title and as far a si know, it has never been registered by anybody else. Appears to have original 3 port fuel pump. I checked that it does get power to the connector. I then hooked 12v directly to pump, no sound. Gave it a few taps just in case. Seems do is dead. I will. Pull old pump, probably go to a 2 port as easier to find and cheaper.

[Erich]

*seems fp is dead.

[jim_hoyland]

Always carry a spare......
It also helps if a fuel pressure is added. When a fuel pump isn't working, pressure goes to Zero.

[rjames]

While you're at it, check the fuel lines to see how old they are and if they are ethanol rated. If in doubt, replace them all. Great looking car!

[Erich]

So took the dead pump out. Out of curiosity, Pulled the top off, hooked 12v and motor spin, reassembled and won’t spin. Ordered a 2 port and will relocate, not sure where yet.

[ClayPerrine]

Erich,

I very strongly suggest that you replace the stock plastic fuel lines with a set of the stainless steel fuel lines from Tangerine racing. 50 year old lines can fail, and watching your car burn is heartbreaking. The stainless lines are cheap insurance.

I also suggest that you relocate the fuel pump up front. Vapor lock, while no where near as bad as an engine fire, can leave you stranded on the side of the road.

[wonkipop]

Erich,

I very strongly suggest that you replace the stock plastic fuel lines with a set of the stainless steel fuel lines from Tangerine racing. 50 year old lines can fail, and watching your car burn is heartbreaking. The stainless lines are cheap insurance.

I also suggest that you relocate the fuel pump up front. Vapor lock, while no where near as bad as an engine fire, can leave you stranded on the side of the road.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

probably the fuel pump is completely gummed up inside and locked if its been sitting for years with fuel in it. and if it did spin up would spit fuel from very orifice seal.

be careful starting an L jet on starter fluid you don't get a back fire through the AFM meter. the flapper could get damaged.

[Erich]

Thanks all for replies, so I ordered a 2 port fuel pump. Will relocate to frunk. Searched a lot of forum for relocation tips but quick question:

1) I guess I just hook the supply and return that were originally connected to stock fuel pump to the lines coming from engine (no y connector anymore)
2) At the frunk, using the attached pic (found on samba website), connect like in pic but delete the Y and line from Y to pump. Do I need to use any Y’s?
3). Do I run the power lines back to the new pump from the stock location?

[wonkipop]

yes, no need for the Y.
2 port relieves pressure back through supply port.

L jets do wire the pump differently to D jets.
pump runs on cranking with key.
then the AFM flap takes over pump operation.
nice safety feature as pump switches off if engine stops (like in a crash).
you would want to keep wiring the same, not having it just work off ignition key in most desirable configuration.

never switched mine over, still in stock location.
but am running a modern pump in original spot,
but have replaced all plastic lines including the ones through the tunnel.
if you move the pump to front you have pressurised line right through tunnel.
the original clear plastic lines not designed to be pressurized.
so.......dodgy in my view.

when the factory went to front fuel pump location they also changed the fuel lines so that they were pressurized variety. at least for supply.

and PS @Erich
since you now have yourself a 74 1.8 L jet you have the misfortune to be hassled and hit up by me for historic data re L jets we are compiling. i'll harass you through PM.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[wonkipop]

So took the dead pump out. Out of curiosity, Pulled the top off, hooked 12v and motor spin, reassembled and won’t spin. Ordered a 2 port and will relocate, not sure where yet.

so its locking in the roller cell section.
interesting.
that has to be done up very carefully.
trying to remember.
but possibly the o ring seal has collapsed such that the little flat cylinders inside are being compressed and so its all like a locked up vice.

i've pulled several of these apart and rebuilt them.
(but so lazy i have not reinstalled the original one back in my car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) )

even so, if you get that to work you might find that after you do get it to fire up it leaks out of the o-ring seal where the power connection is. sometimes that can come good if the new fuel soaks it and causes it to re - swell. but......you know.
and thats the hard one to replace. complete pump tear down to get to it.
very involved. but can be done if you feel like going deep investigating.
i have left a thread of my adventures in the other section of site.
can post a link if you are vaguely interested.

[wonkipop]

here is the link to the f p teardown thread.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=350416

you need to be careful when you take the port (head) section off and reassemble.
over tightened or over clamped down it will lock the pump.
and you have to tighten it down just like you do with the head on an engine.
first one, then the direct opposite then the in between and its opposite.
a little at a time. it must seat evenly.

a trick you could try is loosen off the screws a tiny bit all round and see if the pump spins up that way. if it does look for a new o-ring seal to replace. make sure its fuel rated.
nitrite preferably. think that can cope with ethanol. someone will know on that front.

[Erich]

Thanks for the info. I'll probably mount the 2 port under the car near the steering rack, slightly easier than removing tank if fails/clogged filter.

I am a newby to this 914 and Ljet, but feel free to hassle.

[Erich]

here is the link to the f p teardown thread.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=350416

you need to be careful when you take the port (head) section off and reassemble.
over tightened or over clamped down it will lock the pump.
and you have to tighten it down just like you do with the head on an engine.
first one, then the direct opposite then the in between and its opposite.
a little at a time. it must seat evenly.

a trick you could try is loosen off the screws a tiny bit all round and see if the pump spins up that way. if it does look for a new o-ring seal to replace. make sure its fuel rated.
nitrite preferably. think that can cope with ethanol. someone will know on that front.

Thanks, think I'll just go with a new 2 port but it will be fun to play with the 3 port.

[ClayPerrine]

You can use an aftermarket pump. Airtex E-8445 or equivalent. I have run them on an L-Jet car for years with no issues.

As for the wiring, just pull the black/yellow wire that goes to the fuel pump back to the elbow that goes into the passenger compartment. Then feed it into the passenger compartment following the wiring harness forward. It should make it as far as the front edge of the seats, just behind the shifter. Then buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303315275530?itmme...ABk9SR7ycnOicZA

It is the correct color and tracer in the correct gauge to extend the fuel pump wire. Just follow the harness forward, and follow the brake light wires down to the master cylinder. For the ground, use a 14 gauge brown wire and ground it at the ground point above the fuse box, and follow the black/yellow wire down to the pump.

This is the proper way to do this and the next owner of your 914 won't be using the word DAPO when referring to you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Erich]

You can use an aftermarket pump. Airtex E-8445 or equivalent. I have run them on an L-Jet car for years with no issues.

As for the wiring, just pull the black/yellow wire that goes to the fuel pump back to the elbow that goes into the passenger compartment. Then feed it into the passenger compartment following the wiring harness forward. It should make it as far as the front edge of the seats, just behind the shifter. Then buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303315275530?itmme...ABk9SR7ycnOicZA

It is the correct color and tracer in the correct gauge to extend the fuel pump wire. Just follow the harness forward, and follow the brake light wires down to the master cylinder. For the ground, use a 14 gauge brown wire and ground it at the ground point above the fuse box, and follow the black/yellow wire down to the pump.

This is the proper way to do this and the next owner of your 914 won't be using the word DAPO when referring to you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Thanks!

[Erich]

So, relocated fuel pump to steering rack area (Delphi fe0023 I think). Grounded the pump locally to chassis, ran power from original plug location. Changed oil, cleaned screen, repaired gas sender unit. Went to start, nothing but so some smoke from behind driver seat. Seems PO had added an inline switch to cut power to fuel pump as a security measure I suppose.ran new wires, , stated right up but a little rougg. Noticed one vacuum leak, will continue checking tommow.now just need need wires, figure out why passenger door so t open from outside , fix horn, check brakes. Luckily virtually rust free. There’s another hidden switch under steering wheel need to figure out.

[ClayPerrine]

The door handle issue is probably a broken door cam. Pull the door pad and remove the handle. If the cam is broken, you will see it. The cams are available from any of our beloved vendors.

And take the latch out of the door, clean it, lube it, and reinstall it. They get gummed up and that makes the plastic door handle cam break.