Tear Down and Reassemble Unstarted 1.7 built to 2270, 1.7 to 2270 Unstarted 10 Year Old Build Options

[technicalninja]

Now for the "CHOP BUSTING BITCH!"...

6 days, 3 hours.

78 posts...

Because checking crankshaft end play on an adjustable set up was new to you...

You AREN"T expected to know this shit!

Please ask how, watch videos, familiarize yourself with the process.

I had it "sort" of pegged at the 47th hour and post#20.

It wasn't a decimal point, but you WERE "really, really BAD" at taking a measurement.

Try NOT to let it happen again...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

Edit: The wobbly flywheel was the reason for the strange .007" range you reported in post #7
Edit:2 I entered the thread 7/25 07:38 post#10 and posted #20 the "root" at 18.08 same day.
10.5 hours...

[930cabman]

Sounds as though you hit the jackpot with all this cool stuff that came with an unknown 1.7 engine. Spend your time to get things right, looks like it's got the makings of a rocket

[Robroe]

[quote name='technicalninja' date='Jul 29 2024, 10:42 PM' post='3159241']
Now for the "CHOP BUSTING BITCH!"...

6 days, 3 hours.

78 posts...

Because checking crankshaft end play on an adjustable set up was new to you...

Yep! Chop bustin’ a newbie is expected and appreciated. Starting to feel wanted.

Gonna Oder gasket set and sealant kit from type 4 store. Also front and rear main seals. Will replace bearing dowel pins to just in case. Now to the dilemma of cylinder shims. A stack of four shims totaling .150” were in there. Want to replace with single shims or spacers as y’all have suggested. Type 4 store has .160”. Haven’t found anything else close. Rimco is not making them anymore. Any ideas of where to get .0150” shims? Or should I just use the .160” from type 4. Maybe wetsand the .160” shims to .150”?

[technicalninja]

Still too early on ordering the shims IMO.

I'd do 1st mockup after you get case sealed back together.

We still have case crap to work on.

Did you see my list of pictures?

Good pictures of the bores and pistons are needed now as well.

Chill out on ordering anything yet.

The Hawk or I will continue to help...

[Front yard mechanic]

79 more posts and then we can write the glossary

[technicalninja]

Need a side pic of the piston soon

Many strokers incorporate a pin that bisects the oil control ring groove.

There is a MOSTER CRITICAL mod that has to be done if this is the case.

Not doing it means RAPID failure.

If the pin cuts through the lowest ring land, then a tiny little roll pin needs to be installed to locate the lower oil control ring scrapper OR you assemble an engine that EATS itself in a very short period of time.

If the pin doesn't encroach on the ring land, then a pussy chose the parts and selected a "too short" con rod.
You'll have to use it, but it will be sad.

I am a HUGE believer in installing the longest rod you can jam into any motor.

"LENGTH is IMPORTANT" regardless of what your mental health provider says...

[Superhawk996]

Sanity check:

Have you reviewed the Tom Wilson book and the Raby DVD? All clear on what’s necessary to reassemble in general?

[technicalninja]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Read/watch multiple times!

get FAMILIAR!

[Jack Standz]

Gonna Oder gasket set and sealant kit from type 4 store. Also front and rear main seals. Will replace bearing dowel pins to just in case. Now to the dilemma of cylinder shims. A stack of four shims totaling .150” were in there. Want to replace with single shims or spacers as y’all have suggested. Type 4 store has .160”. Haven’t found anything else close. Rimco is not making them anymore. Any ideas of where to get .0150” shims? Or should I just use the .160” from type 4. Maybe wetsand the .160” shims to .150”?

How do you know what size spacer you need? In other words, what are your measurements and optimal deck height you're aiming for?

It's been mentioned probably for the third time now that the Type IV store will probably make you custom spacers if you give them some lead time. I know they advertise they'll make custom spacers for nickies cylinders. Have you talked to them yet?

Best wishes

[Robroe]

Robroe, we need pictures: do multiangle shots if possible

Oil pump
Rocker arm assemblies
Pushrods
lifters

Are there any fresh drill marks on the crank?
Fresh grinding marks on the rods?
Most of the time balance holes/marks are obvious.
They are not centered, sort of haphazard, and some of them will be STUPID shallow.

What I'm hunting is evidence of balancing...

Piston weights with wrist pins and c clips very close. Obviously balanced. Have not removed rods from crank. Not sure if I should. But they show random grinding marks indicating balancing as does the crank in just a few spots. Here are the picts you specified. Will show piston side view in another post. Thanks so much!
[attachmentid=918
260]

[Superhawk996]

If you’re going to use that T1 pump, you need to measure the OD of the pump vs the ID of the case. T1 pumps are notoriously undersized and create internal leakage and oil aeration.

I’d also measure the gears. 26mm or 30mm? (Length)

30mm will cause issues unless you are running an external oil cooler, thermostat, and lines to the front of vehicle. Too much pressure and flow just internally bypasses at the pressure relief valve, causes oil cooler seal weeps/leaks and can cause overheating due to OEM oil cooler bypassing.

[Robroe]

Need a side pic of the piston soon

Many strokers incorporate a pin that bisects the oil control ring groove.

There is a MOSTER CRITICAL mod that has to be done if this is the case.

Not doing it means RAPID failure.

If the pin cuts through the lowest ring land, then a tiny little roll pin needs to be installed to locate the lower oil control ring scrapper OR you assemble an engine that EATS itself in a very short period of time.

If the pin doesn't encroach on the ring land, then a pussy chose the parts and selected a "too short" con rod.
You'll have to use it, but it will be sad.

I am a HUGE believer in installing the longest rod you can jam into any motor.

"LENGTH is IMPORTANT" regardless of what your mental health provider says...

Piston side view

[Robroe]

If you’re going to use that T1 pump, you need to measure the OD of the pump vs the ID of the case. T1 pumps are notoriously undersized and create internal leakage and oil aeration.

I’d also measure the gears. 26mm or 30mm? (Length)

30mm will cause issues unless you are running an external oil cooler, thermostat, and lines to the front of vehicle. Too much pressure and flow just internally bypasses at the pressure relief valve, causes oil cooler seal weeps/leaks and can cause overheating due to OEM oil cooler bypassing.

26 mm gears. Thanks. Will check pump case fit dimension. Using OEM cooler.

[Superhawk996]

If you’re going to use that T1 pump, you need to measure the OD of the pump vs the ID of the case. T1 pumps are notoriously undersized and create internal leakage and oil aeration.

I’d also measure the gears. 26mm or 30mm? (Length)

30mm will cause issues unless you are running an external oil cooler, thermostat, and lines to the front of vehicle. Too much pressure and flow just internally bypasses at the pressure relief valve, causes oil cooler seal weeps/leaks and can cause overheating due to OEM oil cooler bypassing.

26 mm gears. Thanks. Will check pump case fit dimension. Using OEM cooler.

Not sure what you have for inspection tools. Need to be accurate to 3rd decimal place (0.001”)

Ideally telescoping snap gauges & micrometer or a bore gauge for the case bore.
Micrometer for pump OD.

Calipers not the best tool for the job but will get you within a couple thousandths if you’re very careful about how you use them.

[burton73]

Need a side pic of the piston soon

Many strokers incorporate a pin that bisects the oil control ring groove.

There is a MOSTER CRITICAL mod that has to be done if this is the case.

Not doing it means RAPID failure.

If the pin cuts through the lowest ring land, then a tiny little roll pin needs to be installed to locate the lower oil control ring scrapper OR you assemble an engine that EATS itself in a very short period of time.

If the pin doesn't encroach on the ring land, then a pussy chose the parts and selected a "too short" con rod.
You'll have to use it, but it will be sad.

I am a HUGE believer in installing the longest rod you can jam into any motor.

"LENGTH is IMPORTANT" regardless of what your mental health provider says...

I take a lot of photos and look back on them for reference.

This is one of the Keith Black pistons used in the RAT 2170 build on Marks Eng.
As the Ninga was going over this I thought I would show it
Also, the pistons where used for Harley Davidson strokers


Best Bob b

[Jack Standz]

If you’re going to use that T1 pump, you need to measure the OD of the pump vs the ID of the case. T1 pumps are notoriously undersized and create internal leakage and oil aeration.

I’d also measure the gears. 26mm or 30mm? (Length)

30mm will cause issues unless you are running an external oil cooler, thermostat, and lines to the front of vehicle. Too much pressure and flow just internally bypasses at the pressure relief valve, causes oil cooler seal weeps/leaks and can cause overheating due to OEM oil cooler bypassing.

26 mm gears. Thanks. Will check pump case fit dimension. Using OEM cooler.

Another option is to get an oil pump from Gene Berg that is hard anodized with an o-ring for a groove between the pump and case.

BTW there is an unusual hole in the pressure side of the pump between the pump and the cover plate. Anyone have a guess what it is there for? Can't tell if there are changes to the route of the oil pathway to smooth or straightened out the oil's travel so there's aren't a sharp turn on the way out of the pump into the case??

[930cabman]

If you’re going to use that T1 pump, you need to measure the OD of the pump vs the ID of the case. T1 pumps are notoriously undersized and create internal leakage and oil aeration.

I’d also measure the gears. 26mm or 30mm? (Length)

30mm will cause issues unless you are running an external oil cooler, thermostat, and lines to the front of vehicle. Too much pressure and flow just internally bypasses at the pressure relief valve, causes oil cooler seal weeps/leaks and can cause overheating due to OEM oil cooler bypassing.

26 mm gears. Thanks. Will check pump case fit dimension. Using OEM cooler.

OEM cooler may not be enough for this beast

[Jack Standz]

Gene Berg oil pump with o-ring.

[technicalninja]

Need a side pic of the piston soon

Many strokers incorporate a pin that bisects the oil control ring groove.

There is a MOSTER CRITICAL mod that has to be done if this is the case.

Not doing it means RAPID failure.

If the pin cuts through the lowest ring land, then a tiny little roll pin needs to be installed to locate the lower oil control ring scrapper OR you assemble an engine that EATS itself in a very short period of time.

If the pin doesn't encroach on the ring land, then a pussy chose the parts and selected a "too short" con rod.
You'll have to use it, but it will be sad.

I am a HUGE believer in installing the longest rod you can jam into any motor.

"LENGTH is IMPORTANT" regardless of what your mental health provider says...

I take a lot of photos and look back on them for reference.

This is one of the Keith Black pistons used in the RAT 2170 build on Marks Eng.
As the Ninga was going over this I thought I would show it
Also, the pistons where used for Harley Davidson strokers


Best Bob b

I like those a bunch!
Good brand, true flat top, attenuator groove between 1st and 2nd ring, long rod, tight ring pack.

My "type of piston" for a hot NA street engine.
NICE!

Edit: Should be ceramic coated.
Should have the moly slipper coating on sides.

[Jack Standz]

Anyone have an idea what the hole (the one drilled into the oil passage) in the oil pump is for in the upper right of this photo? It's not standard.

@Robroe

Could you post some photos if what's been modified on that oil pump's output passage? Thx!